Inconsistent domestic hot water from Peerless Boiler
#1
01-11-11, 11:54 AM
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Inconsistent domestic hot water from Peerless Boiler
We have an old peerless G561ws boiler in our house, which is heating the house fine. It has built-in domestic hot water capability but the temp is not staying consistent. We've gotten a lot of suggestions. Change the coil, replace the sidearm, nobody knows for sure. We already had the mixing valve replaced and that had no effect.
We're wondering if there is a small relatively inexpensive tankless out there that could take the existing hot water and bring it up to temp. We might be able to do electric, although our box is near capacity, so gas might be better. We did just replace our electric stovetop with gas, so that circuit might be sufficient. It seems like electrics are less expensive to install.
Just wondering if something like this would work. Any other thoughts??
Thanks in advance!
-eric
We're wondering if there is a small relatively inexpensive tankless out there that could take the existing hot water and bring it up to temp. We might be able to do electric, although our box is near capacity, so gas might be better. We did just replace our electric stovetop with gas, so that circuit might be sufficient. It seems like electrics are less expensive to install.
Just wondering if something like this would work. Any other thoughts??
Thanks in advance!
-eric
#2
01-11-11, 12:30 PM
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Stove circuit should be enough for an electric tank-less.
But have you always had inconsistent temps or is this a new development?
Has anyone checked volume of flow into and out of indirect?
But have you always had inconsistent temps or is this a new development?
Has anyone checked volume of flow into and out of indirect?
#3
01-11-11, 02:16 PM
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Sound like you just need a new coil. Do you have low pressure out of the hot water faucets?
You most likely could not tap off your gas stove for a water heater. Not enough gas there. But you could save money by doing away with the tankless coil and getting a gas, or electric water heater. Just need it installed correctly.
Mike NJ
You most likely could not tap off your gas stove for a water heater. Not enough gas there. But you could save money by doing away with the tankless coil and getting a gas, or electric water heater. Just need it installed correctly.
Mike NJ
#4
01-11-11, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa
You most likely could not tap off your gas stove for a water heater.
#6
01-11-11, 10:35 PM
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yeah, I was talking about using the stove circuit.
Well, we have a guy here wants to swap out the coil. Should we do that? It's fairly pricey, so that's why I'm asking around.
We are having no problems with pressure. Basically the water is sufficiently hot for about 5-7 minutes of showering, and then drops to lukewarm for a few minutes, before mysteriously getting hot again. The pressure is quite constant, though. Makes it impossible to run a bath without boiling some water on the stove and adding that..... doesn't seem to be impacted by whether the house is being heated or not.
We've also thought about a conventional hot water heater. But don't know that we have enough gas, and there is also an issue of where to put it, as the crawl space is kind of low. Not to mention that we already HAVE a hot water heater. I have heard they make short squat water heaters....
But my thought was just to have a little bit of electric "help" to stabilize the temps..... but I don't know if any of these little tankless units can take hot water on input. Just that some of them are quite cheap, and we just need an extra few degrees (and consistency) of warmth.
Well, we have a guy here wants to swap out the coil. Should we do that? It's fairly pricey, so that's why I'm asking around.
We are having no problems with pressure. Basically the water is sufficiently hot for about 5-7 minutes of showering, and then drops to lukewarm for a few minutes, before mysteriously getting hot again. The pressure is quite constant, though. Makes it impossible to run a bath without boiling some water on the stove and adding that..... doesn't seem to be impacted by whether the house is being heated or not.
We've also thought about a conventional hot water heater. But don't know that we have enough gas, and there is also an issue of where to put it, as the crawl space is kind of low. Not to mention that we already HAVE a hot water heater. I have heard they make short squat water heaters....
But my thought was just to have a little bit of electric "help" to stabilize the temps..... but I don't know if any of these little tankless units can take hot water on input. Just that some of them are quite cheap, and we just need an extra few degrees (and consistency) of warmth.
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01-11-11, 10:44 PM
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#8
01-11-11, 10:59 PM
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there should be no reason that you could not use the electric on demand to reheat the water. BUT that probably will not change anything. On demand is able to heat water x degrees according to input temp, input temp changes and so will output.
I do not know if pressure is the same as volume, but for 4 years I froze my A$$ or burnt it, Not one shower was proper until I changed my well piping to 1" from 3/4" (actually it was filters connections) All is fine now.
Personally I would use an indirect tank, and get rid of the one in the boiler.
I do not know if pressure is the same as volume, but for 4 years I froze my A$$ or burnt it, Not one shower was proper until I changed my well piping to 1" from 3/4" (actually it was filters connections) All is fine now.
Personally I would use an indirect tank, and get rid of the one in the boiler.
#9
01-11-11, 11:05 PM
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That guy changing the coil whats his guarantee? If it dont work put the old one back in and work with him to find a cure. A booster tank will cost you more.(fuel) Idealy you dont want tankless to heat your HW. Thats for people with one fuel source. Whats yours???
Mike NJ
Mike NJ
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01-11-11, 11:48 PM
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Ahhh, well I saw the flow issue mentioned in that other forum. The water just moves too fast through the coil to heat consistently, is that right? So the answer is flow reduction at the input?
#12
01-12-11, 11:07 AM
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How would I figure that out? Aquastat is a new term for me.... The hot water temp is set to 130, I think--is that what you mean?
#13
01-12-11, 11:14 AM
Where did you find that 130 setting? If it was inside a gray Honeywell box (about 4" x 6") along with two other setting dials, then that is your aquastat.
Turn the power off to the boiler, 120VAC inside! You can be KILLED! ... slide the cover straight off (maybe have to loosen 1 screw) ... there should be three dials; HIGH , LOW , DIFF .
Tell us what the settings on all three are.
We may suggest some setting changes that will help a bit with the hot water.
Turn the power off to the boiler, 120VAC inside! You can be KILLED! ... slide the cover straight off (maybe have to loosen 1 screw) ... there should be three dials; HIGH , LOW , DIFF .
Tell us what the settings on all three are.
We may suggest some setting changes that will help a bit with the hot water.
#14
01-12-11, 11:50 AM
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I was just told by the tech that he set it at that..... I will look for those settings when I can. Need to figure out how to shut power off. Will I need to relight a pilot? Haven't done that with this unit yet (first year in the house....)
#15
01-12-11, 12:06 PM
OK, in that case, don't touch it...
GUESSING that you have an L8124 type of aquastat, please ask your tech to set the HIGH to 180, the LOW to 150, and the DIFF to 20 ... and see if that helps the hot water situation. It should... at the cost of a slight increase in fuel consumption.
GUESSING that you have an L8124 type of aquastat, please ask your tech to set the HIGH to 180, the LOW to 150, and the DIFF to 20 ... and see if that helps the hot water situation. It should... at the cost of a slight increase in fuel consumption.
#16
01-28-11, 01:00 PM
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don't worry!
I've talked with my tech about all the suggestions on this and other pages, and we have a plan going forward. We'll let you know what happens....
I've talked with my tech about all the suggestions on this and other pages, and we have a plan going forward. We'll let you know what happens....
