Boiler leaking
#1
01-17-11, 06:02 AM
Boiler leaking
I have an old oil boiler Peerless JOTW100W (steam and hot water) that is leaking above the 2" return pipe.
Four years ago when I bough the house I have to add some water to the boiler, but now is two or three times per day. Is that the end of my boiler? What are my options? Thanks for any comment
Four years ago when I bough the house I have to add some water to the boiler, but now is two or three times per day. Is that the end of my boiler? What are my options? Thanks for any comment
#3
01-17-11, 04:44 PM
I did no want to hear that, are you completely sure of that? A new boiler is going to cost me a lot of money, I am in New York could you please recommend me somebody or tell me what is the average for a new gas boiler for a attached townhouse with 3 bedrooms in the second floor, aprox. 1200 sf
#4
01-17-11, 04:47 PM
Laka, can you actually see a crack in the boiler that water is leaking from? How do you know it isn't something that is attached to the boiler leaking and not the boiler itself?
We can't make recommendations here... sorry... figure on 6-10 K though.
We can't make recommendations here... sorry... figure on 6-10 K though.
#5
01-18-11, 09:27 AM
I liked that question, I'm going to take a look, but in order to do that I have to remove the back cover and maybe the drain valve and the relief valve too, we are in winter and I afraid to do it now. Thank I least a have a hope.
#8
01-19-11, 05:21 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
Instead of having to drain the boiler for inspection, you could use a pair of sheet metal snips to cut the boiler jacket. It is easily patched with a strip of sheet metal covering the cut. If your boiler is a show piece like Trooper's, I don't know what to say other than if it were mine, it would be snip, snip, snip.
#9
01-20-11, 07:27 AM
This is a very good idea, that cover is only a "look cover" that faces a wall behind the boiler. I'm going just cut around the relief valve and the drain to remove completely and then do my first inspection.
Thank Grady and NJ Trooper
Thank Grady and NJ Trooper
#10
01-22-11, 11:04 AM
ok I removed the back cover and the only place wet was the join between the tank-less coil and the boiler block assembly where a rubber gasket is located (Cast iron boiler installation instructions), but I am a little confused. Is the water boiler around the tank-less coin? the fire heat the water boiler and then the water boiler heat the coin to heat the water inside the coin to have domestic hot water?
#11
01-22-11, 01:20 PM
Super Moderator
Yes to your questions. You can try snugging up the bolts on the tankless a bit to see if it stops... Are you using the tankless for your hot water or is it capped off? If your still using it and you havenot replaced it in many yrs it might be a good time to replace the coil. Watch out for rip offs. I have seen some charge well over $800 to replace these.
You may just replace the seal also but if its old and your going through all the work put a new coil in.
If the boiler is not meeting your satisfactions/expectations you may want to hobble through until the spring and replace the whole boiler.
Mike NJ
You may just replace the seal also but if its old and your going through all the work put a new coil in.
If the boiler is not meeting your satisfactions/expectations you may want to hobble through until the spring and replace the whole boiler.
Mike NJ
#12
01-23-11, 07:14 AM
Yes I am using my tankless for hot water, I'm going to follow your recommendation to wait until sprint to replace the whole boiler because I saw a lot of rust around the coin, and I believe more water has to be leaking for other places and I still have 3/4 tank of oil.
Thank,
Mike
Thank,
Mike
#13
01-24-11, 04:40 AM
After all my boiler inspection. I found a bad smell from my basement, I checked it and I found water on the floor of the oil tank room. Yes this is the missing water from my boiler coming out from the 2" return pipe. Now I'll forget the boiler and need to repair that pipe.
Yesterday I tried to repair the pipe with a tape and some kind of epoxy, but is still leaking.
How can I repair that pipe?
Yesterday I tried to repair the pipe with a tape and some kind of epoxy, but is still leaking.
How can I repair that pipe?
#14
01-24-11, 04:53 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
If the pipe is leaking it is likely rusted from the inside out. Only cutting a section of pipe out is going to reveal how badly it is rusted. Once a piece is cut out, you should be able to unscrew the two ends. Replace with two pieces & a union.
#15
01-25-11, 04:10 AM
ok I cut the leaking section of pipe, and I fixed temporary with a rubber hose suggested by a friend. I know that is not so good but it is working. Now I have to do the repair but I don't know how to replace the pipes, I need to be same kind of pipe (galvanized or black), I don't have the equipment to make the thread, I wold like to use PVC. Could you people suggest how to make the final repair.
#16
01-25-11, 09:46 AM
Your local Home Depot can cut and thread pipe to your needs. They also stock pre-threaded lengths that you may be able to use.
I don't believe PVC is appropriate... 'C'PVC ... MAYBE ... I would use black steel though, if that's what is already there.
I don't believe PVC is appropriate... 'C'PVC ... MAYBE ... I would use black steel though, if that's what is already there.
#17
01-26-11, 05:57 AM
OK, Black pipe is the one, I'll replace one "L" shape, one piece is vertical (6 ft), the other is horizontal(8 ft), one elbow. and a believe I need to use a coupler that is recommended in the vertical one. Is that correct?
#19
01-26-11, 04:00 PM
Make sure those joints are really tight. I believe you want 8 threads of the male side into the female. I did some black pipe work on my boiler in the summer and I need to go back and tighten all my joints. They just weren't tight enough.
#20
01-26-11, 04:44 PM
And to get that with 1-1/4" pipe, you will need TWO 24" pipe wrenches, and some good muscle power.
One other tip... please do not go 'crazy' with the teflon tape! If you use too much, it will make it impossible to get a leak free joint. No matter what you see or hear about that stuff, MORE THAN TWO WRAPS IS TOO MUCH!
Do NOT put any tape or sealant on the first two threads of the pipe. Leave them clean... the 'seal' is supposed to be METAL TO METAL, and that will occur on those first two threads.
MAKE SURE THE THREADS ON BOTH MATING PIECES ARE CLEAN! Use a wire brush to remove any metal chips, and dirt.
INSPECT THE THREADS before you buy! If they are all banged up, you should not buy it.
One other tip... please do not go 'crazy' with the teflon tape! If you use too much, it will make it impossible to get a leak free joint. No matter what you see or hear about that stuff, MORE THAN TWO WRAPS IS TOO MUCH!
Do NOT put any tape or sealant on the first two threads of the pipe. Leave them clean... the 'seal' is supposed to be METAL TO METAL, and that will occur on those first two threads.
MAKE SURE THE THREADS ON BOTH MATING PIECES ARE CLEAN! Use a wire brush to remove any metal chips, and dirt.
INSPECT THE THREADS before you buy! If they are all banged up, you should not buy it.
#21
01-26-11, 05:03 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,667
Received 39 Upvotes
on
37 Posts
Speaking of clean: I know this is going to sound like I've lost what little mind I had left BUT if this is a steamer be sure to scrub off any cutting oil left in the pipe. I don't mean just wipe, scrub with hot soapy water. Failure to do so can lead to big trouble.
