Multi-zone, Forced Hot Water, Heat still rising issue
#1
01-26-11, 10:50 AM
Multi-zone, Forced Hot Water, Heat still rising issue
I have a single family with 3 zones: 1st floor, 2nd floor, and addition. Up to this point, I have had no problems with calling for heat and shutting off when satisfied.
My second floor appears to have a stuck, valve, pump, etc. that won't close all the way. I turn the tstat off on the 2nd floor and heat keeps coming but not at full power. If I raise the temp so it calls for heat, heat comes and at full power. When I turn off the other 2 zones, the heat stops on the 2nd floor. This is why I believe it is a stuck something rather than a bad tstat.
So before I call a plumber, I want to make sure that there isn't something I can do to fix. Even if it means replace the valve, pump, or whatever. I am pretty handy.
I have included some pics, maybe they will help. The 2nd floor zone is the middle pump.
The pump had this info printed on it
Taco 007-F3 Cartridge Circulator
[there's no picture at this link!]
I didn't see anything printed on the electrical box behind it.
Please and Thank You
For some reason, the images are not appearing during post preview so here is a link to the album:
Picasa Web Albums
[this link doesn't work because your album is not 'PUBLIC' - NJT]
My second floor appears to have a stuck, valve, pump, etc. that won't close all the way. I turn the tstat off on the 2nd floor and heat keeps coming but not at full power. If I raise the temp so it calls for heat, heat comes and at full power. When I turn off the other 2 zones, the heat stops on the 2nd floor. This is why I believe it is a stuck something rather than a bad tstat.
So before I call a plumber, I want to make sure that there isn't something I can do to fix. Even if it means replace the valve, pump, or whatever. I am pretty handy.
I have included some pics, maybe they will help. The 2nd floor zone is the middle pump.
The pump had this info printed on it
Taco 007-F3 Cartridge Circulator
[there's no picture at this link!]
I didn't see anything printed on the electrical box behind it.
Please and Thank You
For some reason, the images are not appearing during post preview so here is a link to the album:
Picasa Web Albums
[this link doesn't work because your album is not 'PUBLIC' - NJT]
Last edited by NJT; 01-26-11 at 04:33 PM.
#2
01-26-11, 03:04 PM
Sounds like migration in the second floor loop.
Since it's zoned with pumps, you want to look for a check valve or flow check valve on the supply to the zone or the return from that zone.
That is likely where your problem lyes.
Since it's zoned with pumps, you want to look for a check valve or flow check valve on the supply to the zone or the return from that zone.
That is likely where your problem lyes.
#4
01-26-11, 03:56 PM
Now that I am thinking about it, the check valve doesn't make sense to me. The check valve should always allow flow, just in one direction.
Can the valve fail allowing flow in both directions?
Can the valve fail allowing flow in both directions?
#6
01-26-11, 04:12 PM
Super Moderator
From Taco:
Flo-Cheks in forced hot water heating systems to prevent (gravity circulation during periods when the boiler is hot, but the space heating zone is not wanted. This makes it possible to use the heating boiler to maintain domestic hot water year-round. You can also use Flo-Cheks in systems with multiple circulator zones to allow heat to flow only into the zones that are calling for heat. In addition, the thumb screw can be opened manually for gravity feed applications, if the main circulator stops operating.
Mike NJ
Flo-Cheks in forced hot water heating systems to prevent (gravity circulation during periods when the boiler is hot, but the space heating zone is not wanted. This makes it possible to use the heating boiler to maintain domestic hot water year-round. You can also use Flo-Cheks in systems with multiple circulator zones to allow heat to flow only into the zones that are calling for heat. In addition, the thumb screw can be opened manually for gravity feed applications, if the main circulator stops operating.
Mike NJ
#7
01-26-11, 04:38 PM
And what you can try is to manually open the valve and close it again ... sometimes this will free up the weighted disc so that it operates normally again.
Before you try to open close those old valves, you want to clean any 'crud' from the stem to that as you turn it it doesn't bugger up the packing material.
If this doesn't work, sometimes rapping on it with a 'persuader' will free up the disc. Don't ANIMAL it, just sorta rap tap on it a bit ...
Before you try to open close those old valves, you want to clean any 'crud' from the stem to that as you turn it it doesn't bugger up the packing material.
If this doesn't work, sometimes rapping on it with a 'persuader' will free up the disc. Don't ANIMAL it, just sorta rap tap on it a bit ...
#8
01-27-11, 08:57 AM
Originally Posted by NJ Trooper
And what you can try is to manually open the valve and close it again ... sometimes this will free up the weighted disc so that it operates normally again.
Before you try to open close those old valves, you want to clean any 'crud' from the stem to that as you turn it it doesn't bugger up the packing material.
If this doesn't work, sometimes rapping on it with a 'persuader' will free up the disc. Don't ANIMAL it, just sorta rap tap on it a bit ...
Before you try to open close those old valves, you want to clean any 'crud' from the stem to that as you turn it it doesn't bugger up the packing material.
If this doesn't work, sometimes rapping on it with a 'persuader' will free up the disc. Don't ANIMAL it, just sorta rap tap on it a bit ...
I have the Friendly Persuader, The Persuader, and the Enforcer in my tool box.
#9
01-29-11, 12:12 PM
UPdate
12 hours before I was planning to replace check valve, it appears to be working.
Because there is corrosion on the check valve itself, I will still plan to replace it but in the summer.
Thank you all for your help.
Because there is corrosion on the check valve itself, I will still plan to replace it but in the summer.
Thank you all for your help.
#10
01-29-11, 06:07 PM
I wouldn't replace it just cuz it's corroded... are those Taco? if not, what brand? There might be rebuild kits available... not that there's much to rebuild really, the kits usually have the O-rings, valve stem packing, etc... so you can take them apart, clean them up and reassemble.
