Riello 40 F3 leaking, looks like btw pump and motor...


  #1  
Old 02-13-11, 09:44 AM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Maine
Posts: 60
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Question Riello 40 F3 leaking, looks like btw pump and motor...

All brand new in March 2006, house first occuopied in Feb 2008.

Riello 40 F3 2005
175 PSI, .60x60 degree AS

Viesmann Vr1-27

Read most of the Riello leaking threads I could find.

Brief history of this burner.
Installed in March '06 when house was built. House not bought occupied until Feb '08.

Late '08 had intermittent igniting issue that I resolved with help of DYI. Was a dirty air tube in the Sideshot Direct Ventilator.

Jan. '09 filter change, cleaning, "tuned" by local oil co. tech.

Was after that cleaning that every once in a long while I smelled oil. Do not remember smelling it before that.

Sometime in spring '09 pulled off cover. Found oil drop on bleed fitting. Tightened, cleaned up any residual oil. Ok but still once in awhile smelled like oil.
Summer of '10 serviced, filter, cleaned, tuned. Same, once in awhile oil smell. Jan '11 oil smell too often. Take off cover and the all of the insulation in bottom is damp with oil. Oil present bottom of case. Cleaned it all up. Dried everything. tightened all fittings, cover on oil pump.
Bottom line, after much trial and error and diligent dry everything it looks to be coming down from in btw the pump and the motor when the burner is running. Other then the small leak, which in my experience as a DYI mechanic will only get worse, it runs well and has been good on oil.

How do i know if i have a hydraulic jack or a electric jack?

Leaks is on pump side not fan side.

Excerpts from prior threads:
We are in Southern Maine, perhaps this applies?
torpedo203
01-27-08, 07:40 PM
Thanks Gents,
my Burner Tech told me that Riello has a bulletin out that says that all hydraulic jacks HAVE TO BE removed due to issues with our oil (Canada) which causes the o rings to self destruct and causes leaks.

izthebye
11-27-07, 07:32 PM
I have a Riello 40 F5 burner that seems to be leaking a little oil out of the hydraulic jack that operates the air shutter. Does one have to replace the whole jack or can this be repaired?

Thanks in advance!

Grady
11-27-07, 07:38 PM
Replacing the piston is a 5 minute job. Riello part # 3006911.
Sometimes, if this becomes a persistant problem, it's best to convert to an electric shutter.
radioconnection
11-27-07, 07:45 PM
Reillo has issued a service bulletin on that problem.

They suggested it was damaged seals, and their fix was removing the shutter and adding a metric plug on the oil line port. I think the problem was to due to aeromatic fuels, and was more common in parts of Canada.

My unit is a few years old, so the electric shutter replacement is probably an updated fix.
pete

End of excerpts from prior threads.


Boiler setup info also lists a Beckett NX-VI 101
Same 175 PSI and .60x60 AS noozle.
Would this be easier for me and my local techs?


My issue is that here in Southern Maine finding a heating tech with proper equipment to service Riello without charging a arm and a leg has been a issue.

Fully understand the fact that these high psi burners are more technical and are slightly more efficient. Not worth it if you have to pay a arm and a leg to keep it running correctly.

tks

Pete
 
  #2  
Old 02-13-11, 07:39 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,403
Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts
If you have a hydraulic jack there will be a device on the right (air intake) side of the burner toward the back/top & brass in color which has a very small copper tube going to it. The other end goes to the pump. Try tightening the pump end fitting.
Another problem is sometimes the crushable washer leaks on the pump where the bleeder goes into the adaptor.
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-11, 03:47 AM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Maine
Posts: 60
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
No hydraulic jack...

Grady,
tks for your reply.
I do not see a jack at all. pics.

See the oil on bottom of pump. That is where it travels too before it drips.

If you look close you can see it is wet btw pump and motor.

When I run a clean paper towel thru the space between pump and motor it comes out wet with fuel.


Gotta go down to NY to work, be back Friday.
Pete



 
  #4  
Old 02-15-11, 07:14 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,403
Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts
Tighten those fittings & plug on the bottom of the pump. Those are common leak points. Also the nut for the pressure adjustment screw. DO NOT TOUCH THE SLOTTED SCREW. That is the pressure adjustment. Just tighten the nut.
 
  #5  
Old 02-17-11, 02:59 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Maine
Posts: 60
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
just tightened all the "nuts" all ove rthe pump...

This is my second pass of tightening all of them up.
Cleaned off all oil.
Burned just kicked in for it 5pm raise t-stat temp from 66 to 68.

Lets take some more pics

Pete
 
  #6  
Old 02-17-11, 08:42 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,403
Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts
A month or so ago another fellow was having a leak problem with a riello & came up with a novel way of locating it. He cut some small strips of white cloth (old tee shirt) & tied each around a potential leak point then let the burner run as normal. Each day he'd check his "wicks" & sure enough, soon found the leaker.
 
  #7  
Old 02-18-11, 12:05 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Maine
Posts: 60
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
grady,
yes, I read that one!

It does not actually drip unless it is running and even then it is more like a "seepage" as opposed to a actual drip. The drip you see in that one bottom photo took about 3 days to form.

1st I used very absorbent cotton towel and clean it all up.

Then I folded over a clean white paper towel. Working from the bottom moved it up into the gap btw the pump and the motor. Wiggled back and forth a few times and removed. Viola, on the edge of the paper towel there is a wet spot approx. in the middle of the pump.

I see there is a pump seal kit but not sure what pump mine has or if the kit I saw was for my exact burner model.

As you have said, you really need to know what it is you want (part nbr) to find anything on the Patriot site.

For now I am just going to try and run a a "wick" from it into a covered container as if I mess around with the pump I will need a tech or to buy a fuel pessure gauge to set/adjust.

Which is where I believe the problem started with. That 1st tech from the oil co did not show up with a pressure gauge. Fiddled with the pump.

Was tempted to buy a gauge in Harbor Freight Tools yesterday.

Did see on a site called simplyplumbing Riello r40 pump for like $70+.

Tks
Pete









 

Last edited by NJT; 02-18-11 at 03:51 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-18-11, 08:16 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,403
Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts
If you get a gauge other than a Riello gauge you must use an adaptor to go from the British Paralell Thread of the pump to the pipe thread of the gauge. If you try to screw a pipe thread gauge directly into the pump, you WILL damage the pump. The adaptor is Riello # 3005847.
There are crushable metal washers under some of the fittings.
3/8" ID washer--3007077
5/8" ID washer--3007087
 
  #9  
Old 02-23-11, 03:31 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Maine
Posts: 60
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ordered pump, will get reillo adapter and have tech install it.

Grady,
I hung a piece of string down btw the pump and the motor. Hangs into a soup can. Body of pump now stays dry. string is wet with fuel.
So I ordered the pump, hope its the right one.

Once it comes and I confirm its the correct replacement will get the gauge adapter and make appt for tech to come with his gauge.

It seeps only a drop or two a day so for now its "stable" enough to just leave alone. Tech will come when he is in the area and not backed up with no heat calls.

tks for your help.

Pete
 
  #10  
Old 02-23-11, 08:25 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,403
Received 39 Upvotes on 37 Posts
The part number I have for the pump is 3007802. If that's the part # you ordered, you should be good.
 
  #11  
Old 10-01-11, 10:36 AM
mjagl's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up riello 40 f5 oil pump hyradlic piston restore

i took apart the piston cleaned it with a sponge reseated the rubber and tighten it there was oil sludged in side the sponge cleaned it out the cap that holds it in place must be seated evenly while pressing the spring then the u clamp pressed back in, been 1 month so far no leaks or oil on out side of pinston
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: