I am having trouble with wiring my new Honeywell Aquastat. I have gotten myself in way over my head, and really need some serious help. To make a very long story short, I have a Weil Mclain series 68 that, quite frankly, just needs to be replaced. However, I have fallen on hard times, and after 18 months of unemployment, I just don't have the money to pay a repair man. So begins a long line of mistakes on my part. When my burner stopped firing over a week and a half ago, the first thing I did was replace the oil filter thinking I wasn't getting oil. That did not solve the issue, and I had already noticed that the reset button on the r4184d1027 honeywell intermittent ignition oil primary did not pop up. I took the relay apart and it had a lot of dust and grime in various parts. After pushing the relay in the middle together the burner fired. However, upon letting go it stopped. I assumed I needed to replace this part, so I did. $90 later, I had the new relay installed, wired, and ready to go. Upon switching the power on...nothing. In an effort to trouble shoot, I put the old switch back on (because it was taken apart already and I could fiddle with it without breaking the new one!). I then turned my attention to the honeywell aquastat l8148a. This old and beat up aquastat has already given me trouble, and I have long been suspect about the wiring on this little box. So I proceeded to try and find a new one. I was told by several sources that this box was replaced by the L7224U, so I purchased one. I am now adding another $150 to the expense of a project I am doing because I have no money! Here is where I really SCREWED UP! After 4 days without hot water, and expecting another 2 days waiting for the new aquastat to come in, I got desperate. I was also making efforts to trouble shoot. So I disconnected the wiring on the Aquastat, and made a direct power connection by simply bypassing the aquastat. I flipped the switch, and low and behold, the burner fired (as long as I forced the ignition primary circuit closed. In this manner, with close supervision, I was able to heat the system up to the right temp, generate enough hot water for my family to bathe and turn it off. This may have been stupid and insane, but I was pretty desperate. The mistake I made was not labeling the wiring. After looking again, I see that each post is labeled distinctly. After getting the new aquastat and finding it looks nothing like the old one and has digital readout, and all sorts of instructions about envicom this and other things that do not apply to my system, I realized I now had no idea how to get this hooked back up. I have searched for photos of properly wired units, but nothing looks quite like mine. The wiring diagrams don't help because I am not sure where the incoming wires are coming from exactly. I do think I have located the L1, L2, B1 and B2 wires. I have these hooked up and the aquastat readout is showing info. So here is what I have, and I will post photos momentarily. incoming - three black wires, two white wires, and 1 red. There is also a brown wire with a red and white wire, I understand to be the thermostat, and hooked up to the T1 and T2 posts. from the ingnition primary are one black and one white wire. Can anyone tell me where these wires should be hooked up in order to give me heat? Please do not be cruel, I have beaten myself up enough over being so stupid as to mess with this thing with no experience, I just need to get through this. :( The nights are 5 degrees here in CT and my wood stove and space heaters aren't quite cutting it, not to mention days at a time with no hot water.

Is there a way to wire the relay of a zone hot water heating system so that the valve for the main floor can be left on, but the heat will come on if either the thermostat of the main floor or the basement calls for heat? We had a zone water heating system, one zone for the main floor and one for the basement. A couple of years ago, after serviced by the Excel Energy Smart Home, it always heats the basement. Since we do not use the basement, it is wasting heat. I had them come again this year and the guy said that since the valve for the main floor is not working, they left both the main floor and basement valves open all the time and wired the relay to respond to the thermostat for the main floor only. Therefore, heat comes on in the basement every time the main floor is calling for heat. Since the smart home plan does not cover zone valves, they wired it that way. We had the main floor valve changed before and it was expensive. Is there a cheaper way to just rewire the relay so that we can leave the main floor valve open all the time and the main floor will have heat whenever either thermostat calls for heat, but the basement gets heat only when the basement thermostat calls for heat? Since the basement valve is good and it seldom requires heat, it will not be a problem. The Smart Home guy said it cannot be done. I cannot remember what he said. Maybe it will burn the valves. Do you have a better idea?