Zone valve or thermostat issue?

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Old 02-24-11, 08:11 PM
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Zone valve or thermostat issue?

My basement zone zone valve started acting up this evening. At first, I thought something had fallen down off a shelf in the furnace room! It sounded like a large metal object falling down... But i saw nothing that had fallen. Then I heard it again, and after a while, again. Each time, i could see nothing wrong anywhere when i went down. So I decided to putter about down there, working on stuff, cleaning up, etc..., so i could be near when the next "big bang" happened. Turns out that when the basement thermostat either asks for heat or says it's had enough, the zone valve opens and closes very quickly! Major water hammer! I had my wife come down after I located the issue, and had here move the thermostat to full hot to open the zone valve while I was up on a chair to check how well it worked, and it seemed fine, when she shut the heat, the zone valve at first closed nicely, but then SLAMMED open and shut 2-3 times very, very quickly! I was loosely holding the "manual' lever to see how quickly it closed or whatever, and it yanked the lever from my thumb.

Is this an erratic thermostat, or is the zone valve(Honeywell) toast? Can I just change the motor, or is this the valve itself? The valve is sweated-on, so changing it is a bit more involved. Not to mention that we're still in the dead of winter and I hate to shut down, and drain any water from, the system at this time of year.
 
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Old 02-24-11, 08:29 PM
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Sounds like the gears are getting bad so when you try to power it open it slips off the motor gear and if the pump is going from another valve being open it would slam open from the pump pressure. You don't have to solder in a new valve, but you do need to change the motor and the inner parts so its all new. To do that you would have to break into the system. Do you have valves on both sides of the zone valve. There should be. Paul
 

Last edited by NJT; 02-25-11 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 02-25-11, 08:09 AM
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Thanks! I was just thinking this morning that it could be the gears "slipping" and jumping, as you say. And yes, the pump was running each time when it was opening and closing.

Unfortunately, there aren't any valves directly on either side of the zone valve; I'd have to close the zone's valves(not a problem), but also the main header, right at the pump. I'd lose at least a gallon of water...

The zone valve is 32 years old, so it makes sense that it's worn the gears. I think i have an identical spare, so I'll take a looksee at how to swap the gears and motor. Thanks again!
 
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Old 02-25-11, 02:43 PM
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Hoping that you have the 8043 type of zone valve, I'm adding some info...

If it's a real old 8043 type, you will find the powerhead is held to the valve body by FOUR screws. Unless you want a bath, do NOT remove those screws without first draining the system!

The newer 80xx series valves are designed such that the head can be easily changed without draining the system, and these have TWO screws (and two 'locating' pins) holding the head in place.

Your valve may have already been converted, so check to see how many screws there are holding the head.

There IS an adapter kit available that allows conversion to the removable head variety.

Honeywell part number is 40003918-006

Patriot Supply - 40003918-006

This also obviously requires draining... it basically rebuilds the valve body with new 'ball', and shaft seals, and allows fitting a new style powerhead.

For the 'E' model with leadwires:

Patriot Supply - 40003916-026

For the 'F' model with terminal strip:

Patriot Supply - 40003916-048
 
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Old 02-25-11, 02:53 PM
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There's all kinda data about these valves in this PDF:

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...it/60-2133.pdf

Including conversion instructions, etc...

By the way, the '5000' series power heads will also fit after you convert the body. You can't utilize the 'quick pushbutton change' feature because you still have to fit the two retaining screws, but they do work. These newer heads supposedly close a bit more slowly... so I've heard... not used them myself...

Leadwires:
Patriot Supply - 40003916-526

Terminal strip:
Patriot Supply - 40003916-548
 
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Old 02-25-11, 03:03 PM
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Lastly, there are other various reasons for water hammer, i.e. a big ole air bubble somewhere in the system... sometimes even an expansion tank that is low on air... but didn't we just go through that whole exercise?

And the fact that it's rippin' the lever outta yer hand...
 
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Old 03-03-11, 04:34 PM
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I forgot to return here and give y'all my results. I found the motor was loose! There are 3 screws that hold the motor to the plate, and they were very loose. I could lift the motor about 1/8" or more. I snugged them up and she's been fine since.

Yes, it's an 8043 series(V8043G1018 5, to be exact. Thanks for the links; I think I'll be buying the conversion kit and motor, and just keep it nearby for the inevitable day that the unit fails. And when I drain the system this summer to remove some of the basement's radiators, I'll add valves fore and aft of each zone valve so that when the time comes, I can work on them without draining the whole of it.

As always, you guys are the best! Thanks a bunch!
 
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Old 03-03-11, 05:26 PM
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I always remember what one of my mentors once told me:

"99% of troubleshooting is visual"

Now get back to work on my F5 mando, wouldya?
 
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