I'm confused...

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Old 10-18-11, 09:51 AM
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I'm confused...

Hopefully someone can help. I live in an apartment style condo, and recently replaced my old white-rodgers mercury thermostat with a honeywell RTH221B. There are two wires, red and black, which I installed in Rh and W respectively. I discovered that when I turn the thermostat on to heat my place it turns my zone valve off. When I manually turn the thermostat off the zone valve turns on. I took a closer look at the old thermostat and realized that when the circuit is broken, via the mercury, it turns the zone valve on and when it completes the circuit it turns the valve off. Is the honeywell RTH221B not compatible with the old white-rodgers. What's with the system turning on when I turn it off? Am I missing something. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!





 
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Old 10-18-11, 07:21 PM
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Well, I'm taking a shot in the dark with this myself, but here is what I think. Most zone valves are normally closed and require power to hold them open. There are also zone valves that are normally open and require power to hold them closed. It sounds like you may have a zone valve that is normally open and the White Rogers thermostat was designed to send power to the valve to hold it closed when the call for heat ended. Just my guess.
 
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Old 10-18-11, 09:21 PM
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Do you have access to the boiler room? Can you look and see what type of zone valves are installed?
 
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Old 10-18-11, 09:28 PM
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Yeah, you must have reverse acting (normally open) zone valves... or something else going on... that WR thermostat is listed as:

Cooling
Part # 1E31W-607 Close on Rise

In other words, they've used an air conditioner thermostat for the heating system because of the reverse action.

I'm not sure if this will work or not... but it may be possible to use the Y and G terminals. i.e. the COOLING terminals for the heat... but proceed at your own risk.
 
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Old 10-19-11, 06:13 PM
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You don't want the 'G' terminal involved. I'd try R/C & Y. Then set the stat for cooling. When the temp in the room drops below the setting, Y will be de-energized thus giving you heat. Sounds good in theory. Let's see if it works in the real world.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 09:29 AM
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Thank you for your suggestions. I tried hooking up to Y&G, then Y&W and switched it over to cooling and nothing happened. I thought too that it would work given that when its in cooling mode the circuit would be interupted until the cooling kicked in.

Honeywell customer care got back to me today and said the model 221B that I have is not compatible and that I should get a: "TH6110D will work with a normally open valve by wiring R & Y instead of R & W". Guess I'll have to get another model.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 10-20-11, 10:11 AM
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I'm having a hard time locating that model online in my city.

I'll try the R/C & Y tonight...Should I remove the jumper between R/h and R/c. Hope this works...but I was also thinking maybe setting it up as R/h & W but set the temp really low like 10 degree celsius, this would keep the call for heat off and thus my zone valve open...hmmmm
 
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Old 10-20-11, 05:09 PM
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The jumper gets removed when you have two separate units for heat and a/c. So if you have central a/c, you should remove the jumper when it is connected. If it is just heat, don't worry about it.
 
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Old 10-20-11, 07:55 PM
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Remember, you are going to be operating this stat in the cooling mode so it must be wired Rc & Y. I have every reason to believe it will work this way. Granted, the correct stat is the way to go but to get you some heat, sometimes you have to get a little out of the box.
 
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