Honeywell V8043E1012 opens but does not turn on the furnace.

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Old 12-29-11, 03:06 PM
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Honeywell V8043E1012 opens but does not turn on the furnace.

Is this a common failure for these? Do I need to replace it or tinker with the wiring?
 
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Old 12-29-11, 04:05 PM
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I would say yes... fairly common.

First, carefully examine the RED wiring to be sure there are no broken or loose wire connections. If all is clean and tight, then you will have to change the head.

Inside the power head is a switch that makes contact when the valve opens and signals the boiler to fire. They do get 'flaky' in time.

Fairly easy fix actually, replace the power head.

Patriot Supply - 40003916-026

Before you start, slip the cover off the head and look to see how many screws are holding the head in place. The newer ones have TWO screws diagonally opposite, and two 'locating pins'. Older heads had FOUR SCREWS.

If you have an OLDER valve, you will have to drain the system to change the head.

The NEWER valves do not require draining, follow the instructions and simply change the head.

If it is an older valve, there is a conversion kit available to use the newer style head... let me know if you need the part numbers.
 
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Old 12-29-11, 04:17 PM
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nice thanks! Will update once I give it a go.

BTW, when the furnace is triggered is there a circulation pump that also should come on? Are those both triggered the same way? Oddly, despite realizing that the furnace wasn't coming on, when other zones were also open and the furnace was on it was hit or miss whether the water circulated in the troubled zone. I got it going for a few minutes but usually the pipes got really hot (both incoming and outgoing) but the radiators didn't. I couldn't figure how the incoming copper was getting hot without the pipe in between being hot. Would all of that go with just the power head?

Thanks again, super helpful!
 
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Old 12-29-11, 04:44 PM
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when the furnace is triggered is there a circulation pump that also should come on?
In general, yes.

What make/model is the boiler?

Are there any other zone control panels, such as a Taco ZVC series which the valves are wired to? Or are the yellows and reds hooked up to the thermostats and the boiler by themselves?

On the boiler there is an 'aquastat' which controls the boiler temperature and (if there is no other zone control panel) the circulator pump.

despite realizing that the furnace wasn't coming on, when other zones were also open and the furnace was on it was hit or miss whether the water circulated in the troubled zone.
If the thermostat for the affected zone calls for heat and doesn't fire the boiler, the valve will remain open... forever... OR until ANOTHER zone calls for heat, at which time the boiler would fire and the pump would run. This would allow heat into the affected zone because the valve is already open.

usually the pipes got really hot (both incoming and outgoing) but the radiators didn't. I couldn't figure how the incoming copper was getting hot without the pipe in between being hot.
How far from the main flow were these pipes hot? Are you sure that it wasn't just conducted heat?

Would all of that go with just the power head?
Probably... in any case though, you would still need to repair the valve. If there are other problems after that, let us know and we'll help.

BTW, until you get the new powerhead, you could lock the bad valve manually open using the lever on the side. It will get heat whenever another zone calls, as above.

BUT... if you do this, turn the thermostat for the affected zone all the way down. If that thermostat should happen to call for heat, the valve will unlock itself and return to the automatic mode... so in the meantime, just let it ride along with the other zones calling.

It's possible (but not likely) that this will overheat the affected zone... if it does, just close the valve again.
 
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Old 12-29-11, 05:01 PM
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"BTW, until you get the new powerhead, you could lock the bad valve manually open using the lever on the side. It will get heat whenever another zone calls, as above.

BUT... if you do this, turn the thermostat for the affected zone all the way down. If that thermostat should happen to call for heat, the valve will unlock itself and return to the automatic mode... so in the meantime, just let it ride along with the other zones calling."
I did not lock the valve and turn down the thermostat but that is basically where it was hit or miss.The outgoing pipe was hot well beyond where I could touch it. The incoming was probably only 4 feet or so, just past the first turn at the ceiling. I cannot judge how far conducted heat would travel but this was within 5 minutes or so. When I open the drain for that zone it flowed very well from my hose, but when one other zone was open and circulating and this zone was also open, the registers stayed cold. I imagine if it were possible to keep it circulating with just this zone open I'd certainly get heat to the registers. If someone isn't paying a lot of attention I suspect that some zones would definitely have pressure advantages over others and hog up the circulation until they hit temp. Just a guess tho.

I'll try more this evening. I sure appreciate your help.
 
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Old 12-29-11, 05:08 PM
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When I open the drain for that zone it flowed very well from my hose,
I guess you did this during troubleshooting to try and determine the problem?

In general, it's not a good idea to let that old nasty stinky water out. By opening that drain you may have inadvertently let some air into the system. Air has the ability to block a zone from circulating.

What does the pressure/temperature gauge on the boiler read?

What make/model is the boiler?

Are there any other zone control panels, such as a Taco ZVC series which the valves are wired to? Or are the yellows and reds hooked up to the thermostats and the boiler by themselves?
 
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Old 12-29-11, 05:58 PM
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yeah, I was troubleshooting, there was no heat from that zone at all. Also the system also makes lots of banging sounds that sound like the floor joists but come in rapid succession. The boiler is Burnham Series 2 (Model B) and I don't think there are any control panels, the wires come out of the wall and go straight to the zone valves.

I will try tinkering with the wires shortly.
 
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Old 12-30-11, 12:05 PM
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ok, it was the new style, and the problem with the switch was pretty obvious when I got working on it. In fact even when I pushed the button in quite hard manually it kept shorting instead of giving a constant signal. Then when I pulled the head off altogether and twisted the valve a bit further open suddenly heat was flowing in that zone. So, as you said from the start, it's the power head. Thanks so much!
 
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Old 12-30-11, 12:35 PM
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Hey trooper, do you get any kickback if I order from that link? Happy to do it if so.
 
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Old 12-30-11, 12:51 PM
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No, no kickbacks here! I do order from them all the time though... satisfied customer is all.

Good Luck!
 
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