Post Purge with Zone Valves

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  #41  
Old 01-02-12, 12:15 PM
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OK, I swear... this is it... no more changes!

 
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  #42  
Old 01-02-12, 12:45 PM
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delay on make
But 'how much' delay on make do you need? That's not what we want anyway... we want a delay on break... but then how do you trigger it? Not as easy as it first seems. Show us a schematic and we'll talk. I'd like to see your ideas.

TEMPERATURE controlled post purge is more accurate anyway.
 
  #43  
Old 01-02-12, 01:04 PM
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just caught Peters last part about t'stat and delay they make same control ether make or break,just in series,line in-line out,that only triggers adj. timer.made in USA. sorry didn't read what you were doing or study diagram.only so many brain cells left and have to be in the mood.
 
  #44  
Old 01-02-12, 01:20 PM
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only so many brain cells left
You and me both brother! And I'm workin' hard at killin' off those that are still firing!

Peter, when/if you get a chance, can you do some investigating on your ZVC panel and tell me if terminals 2 and 4 are common on the ZV strips?
 
  #45  
Old 01-02-12, 05:14 PM
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The rain in Spain falls mainly in the plain.
By George i think you've got it!


I like it NJT.
As soon as i finsihed my MS Paint version, i knew the 24v tranformer was in the wrong placce for clarity.

So you didn't answer my thoughts about the re-trigger of the purge zone..
Guess you don't think it matters.
OK

I'm gonna build this thing tomorrow.
But i'm not sure if i can get much out of it.
The reason calls for a new thread.

Anyway as far as 2 and 4 being common. I 'm pretty sure they are.I nearly totally, reverse engineered that thing when i connected the opto-coupers for the "WEL" monitor. But the memory gets fuzzy too fast.
I will double check tomorrow, to be sure.

Now all you have to do is make the finalized version for the
Honeywell/no ZVC folks.


Been too much fun NJT,
Thanks for that!

What's the next project?
Hint...Buffer tank, controls with protection, outdoor / indoor reset...

Peter
 
  #46  
Old 01-02-12, 05:44 PM
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IF and only IF terminals 2 and 4 on the Taco ZVC panels are common to each other, then this will work.

I would also like to point out that on some models of the ZVC, I believe only the 406 model, this system will NOT work... because that extra set of relay contacts is only activated with ZONE 6... and it's actually named "Zone 6 Relay" [it also appears as if the 404 has a dedicated "Zone 4 relay, so it won't work with that either. It looks like this scheme will only work with the 403 and 405 panels.]

 

Last edited by NJT; 01-02-12 at 08:15 PM.
  #47  
Old 01-02-12, 05:49 PM
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I believe only the 406 model, this system will NOT work... because that extra set of relay contacts is only activated with ZONE 6... and it's actually named "Zone 6 Relay"
Don't think so...
I do have a 406 and i will check in a few.


Peter
 
  #48  
Old 01-02-12, 05:52 PM
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Dont forget to call this guy Troop. If you cant let me know. I will give him a ring but you are better eqipped with the techical end to talk to hime more sensibly then I can.



Exquisite Heat

Mike NJ
 
  #49  
Old 01-02-12, 06:47 PM
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Open Mouth Inset Foot.

I would also like to point out that on some models of the ZVC, I believe only the 406 model, this system will NOT work... because that extra set of relay contacts is only activated with ZONE 6... and it's actually named "Zone 6 Relay"
This is entirely correct.

(Damm you NJT..) LOL

There goes the whole plan out the window.
Back to the drawing boards.
Guess i need an inverting relay or something or other.
ughhh.grumble grumble grumble



Oh ya, NJT, as far as i can tell 2 and 4 are common.
There is no voltage with the power on and with the power off, there is zero ohms.


Peter
 
  #50  
Old 01-02-12, 07:04 PM
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Peter, are you using all 6 channels? If Z6 is actually 'vacant' on your panel, why not wire the 'extra endswitch' to the T T inputs on channel 6 ? Then you can use those relay contacts. I think you need to jumper the endswitch terminals on that zone to get this to work...
 
  #51  
Old 01-02-12, 07:26 PM
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Hello NJT,
You crafty genius..
Yes. But.
I'm using all 6 and only two of three on the 403.
The relay on the 403 works as we want it to..
I could move 6 to the unused zone on the 403.
Or is there a way to run the whole 406 thru the 403?

You're so far ahead of me with your know how on these ZVC's i'll have to ponder your idea and see if i can understand it better.
And figure out how to include the 403 or visa versa.
Any ideas?
Would we also wire the extra end switch fomr the 403 to the zone 6 TT?

Peter
 
  #52  
Old 01-02-12, 08:03 PM
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awwww shucks....

How many daggone zones you got? Have you got the 3 and the 6 master/slave ?

Wait... I don't think that what I proposed will work anyway... who you callin' genius?

Won't that 'lock up' the panel? Yeah, I think it will...

So why can't you use the extra relay on the 3 ? or maybe that one doesn't have one?
 
  #53  
Old 01-02-12, 08:12 PM
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Looks like the 404 has the dedicated to one zone (4) extra relay also...

Seems that the 3 and the 5 are the only ones that don't...
 
  #54  
Old 01-02-12, 08:46 PM
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How many daggone zones you got?
8, ya' i know i'm micro zoned out
but i like it.


Have you got the 3 and the 6 master/slave ?
No fuly independent. The each call TT on the A'stat as needed.


So why can't you use the extra relay on the 3 ? or maybe that one doesn't have one?
Yes it has it and it works the way we need it to..




can the 406 end switch call, the un-used zone on the 403, via the thermostat input?
and discconect the end switch on the 406 to the a'stat..?

Peter
 
  #55  
Old 01-03-12, 03:17 PM
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can the 406 end switch call, the un-used zone on the 403, via the thermostat input?
and discconect the end switch on the 406 to the a'stat..?
Yes, if you currently have the endswitches from both panels in parallel going to the boiler, then that will work. You'll need a jumper on the endswitch terminals of the un-used zone on the 3.
 
  #56  
Old 01-03-12, 05:24 PM
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Thanks, NJT
I didn't do anythiing today, other matters and..
Don't really want to mess with the boiler on the coldest day of the season.
14 right now and on the way to near zero, wind chill below.

Peter
 
  #57  
Old 01-03-12, 06:22 PM
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Can't blame ya for that!

Hang in there buddy...
 
  #58  
Old 01-03-12, 08:26 PM
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I believe this will work for both/either/and/or Honeywell and Taco valves, drawn with one of each.

 
  #59  
Old 01-03-12, 09:48 PM
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Brilliant
Simply Brilliant

Your reputation as the god of wiring is well deserved.


I'm going with the plan for ZVC's.
If i get the chance, i'll test this out with just a couple of Taco valves, but is looks good to me.


OK guys, here it is, post purge with zone valves.

Peter,
 
  #60  
Old 11-11-12, 08:42 AM
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Hi guys I am working on a design to do just what you guys were discussing in this thread and was wondering if the design you came up with actually worked and what are your feelings on having this post purge in your house. I have always thought the getting the heat into the house and not leaving it sitting in the boiler would be a beneficial thing...thanks in advance..
Joe
 
  #61  
Old 11-11-12, 10:39 AM
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Hi Joe,

I don't know that anyone has implemented the design we came up with but I can say that the system I used with my old boiler ( NO ZONE VALVES ) worked very well. And it was simple. Added benefit was that it eliminated any short cycling issues by cooling the boiler between heat calls which provided longer run times (but spaced much further apart).

Adding zone valves complicates the wiring as you can see.
 
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