Hydro Therm HC-125 NJ Trooper
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Hydro Therm HC-125 NJ Trooper
I have a question about the switching relay on my Hydro-Therm HC 125. I am barrowing a couple of links from other member hope this is o.k...
This is the current Relay. photos #2, 4 and 5
boiler-relay pictures by rviger - Photobucket
I have read through various posts and I noticed robertk54 used this switching relay in his HC-125. DIY post (his posts start about 3/4 the way down the thread)
I found this Taco too What other relays are out there for the HC 125? What would you suggest?
Thanks for your help.
This is the current Relay. photos #2, 4 and 5
boiler-relay pictures by rviger - Photobucket
I have read through various posts and I noticed robertk54 used this switching relay in his HC-125. DIY post (his posts start about 3/4 the way down the thread)
I found this Taco too What other relays are out there for the HC 125? What would you suggest?
Thanks for your help.
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The Switch relay was hit and shorted out. ( Moving Christmas decorations) The pilot light is on, no voltage from the inductor to the PP. From PP to TH with heat call there is no voltage. It may be the aquastat but because of the damage done to the relay....
#9
The circulator does not run with a heat call. The burner does not light with the switch on manual.
How so was the control 'hit' and shorted out? Was it absolutely smashed into? and sparks came out? Or bumped... and then just didn't work?
Anyhow, if the relay is working when the thermostat calls for heat, you should hear the relay 'click' and the circulator should run. If the boiler is cold, the main burner should also light.
When you switch from 'auto' to 'manual', the burner should light, REGARDLESS of whether there's a heat call or not, and regardless of whether or not the relay is working. Not only that, but the burner should light when switching to manual even if the POWER IS OUT!
The fact that the pump doesn't start, and you probably don't hear a 'click' when the thermostat calls for heat, means that yes, you should replace the relay, but the fact that the burner doesn't fire MIGHT mean there's also another problem. It could mean that the auto/man switch in your relay is just cruddy though... so the best way to find that out is to replace the relay.
Note that the replacement relays do NOT have the 'auto/man' switch on them.
You can use any of the 'single zone' relay boxes... my personal choice for this application would be the R8845, but any of them will work.
Honeywell R8845U1003 http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...it/69-1292.pdf
Honeywell RA832A1066 http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/69-2041.pdf
Taco SR501 http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/Fil...ry/102-169.pdf
Argo AR822 http://www.ecrinternational.com/secu...ument/1545.pdf
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The control was hit with a wooden pole. Slid off the box I was carrying and cracked the plastic around the switch. A loud snap, some small sparks and a quick whiff of ozone.
I will start with the relay and hope for the best. If not, I know where I can get some good advice. Thank you for your time and help.
I will start with the relay and hope for the best. If not, I know where I can get some good advice. Thank you for your time and help.
#11
I know where I can get some good advice.
OK, based on that description, it is pretty much a given that the relay box is toast. What we don't know is whether anything else got damaged.
You can do one more thing to troubleshoot while you are waiting for the replacement relay to arrive...
If you remove the wires on X1 and X2 on the relay box, and touch them together, the burner should fire. If it does not, then there's another problem... just so you know what to be prepared for.