Honeywell 8043E Zone Valve

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Old 02-23-12, 09:21 PM
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Honeywell 8043E Zone Valve

The circular motor at the top of one of my zone valves in my hot water baseboard heating system gets extremely hot and then stops working. It remains in an open position and the boiler no longer fires up and produces hot water. If I turn the thermostat all the way down the motor will cool down and when it does the spring closes the valve. At this point I can turn the thermostat back up and everything works properly--for awhile--then the process begins anew. Is this proof that I need to replace the motor, or is this a wiring problem (perhaps mouse related)?
 
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Old 02-24-12, 03:17 PM
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You've got a mouse connected to your zone valves? That's high tech! j/k, I know what you meant.

It could be just a bad motor, it could be the mechanism is worn... the motor getting HOT could indicate that the motor is bad, or it could be just a SYMPTOM that something else is wrong with the valve.

The motor can be replaced on it's own, or the entire powerhead can be swapped out.

Patriot Supply - 40003916-026

Patriot Supply - 802360JA

Before taking off the powerhead, check to see if you have the 'new' or 'old' style valves. The newer valves have only TWO screws holding the head to the body, and two 'locating pins'. The old style had FOUR screws holding the head.

The NEW heads can be replaced without having to drain any water.

The OLD heads required draining water.

If you have the OLD style, there is an adapter kit to fit the new style heads.
 
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Old 02-27-12, 04:55 PM
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Well, I took the motor off, sprayed the gear at the bottom with a shot of WD40, and everything now works as intended.

I appreciate your previous reply to me. Also all of the information you've supplied in other threads. I've read quite a few and learned a LOT. Tomorrow I'll follow your instructions on fixing a leaking relief valve.
 
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Old 02-27-12, 05:01 PM
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WD40 tends to evaporate fairly quickly, it's not really an 'oil' per se... so don't be surprised if a problem returns. Leave it be for now if it's working I guess... but maybe have a spare head on hand just in case.

fixing a leaking relief valve.
Stop back and let us know how that worked out for ya!
 
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Old 03-07-12, 04:25 PM
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I did the leaking relief valve fix on the 28th and it solved the problem. I followed your instructions exactly. I think the bladder had about 2 psi or less when I started. I then checked my other two zone valves and found one of the powerheads to be ruined--because the bent down little metal tab that a spring attaches to had snapped off! (Seems like Honeywell could use a little better metal--but I guess it is a honey well for them to sell expensive replacement parts.) I bought a new powerhead, put it on, and found out that the springs would not completely close the valve. I think it had been open for quite a while because of the broken spring connection and was now stuck partway open. I took the powerhead off, sprayed a shot of WD40 on the top of the valve mechanism, manually opened the valve a few times, and the problem was fixed. WD40 thus solved two zone valve problems--one a major hassle because fixing the valve itself would have meant draining the system. I realize that the WD40 may not be a permanent fix--but everything has been working well for over a week now..... I'll let you know if things go bad. Again, I appreciate your help. This is the best site on the internet that I've ever encountered. AND I learned the difference between a Pteranodon and a Pterodactyl.
 
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Old 03-07-12, 05:14 PM
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Well done Arch! Thanks for letting us know all is well now.

AND I learned the difference between a Pteranodon and a Pterodactyl.
Then my work is done!
 
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Old 04-30-14, 04:52 PM
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Smile

Ok, it's now over 2 years later, and the zone valve got stuck again today. I hit it with a shot of WD40, and it's like new again. So far the track record is that a shot of WD40 fixes a stuck zone valve for 2 years, and then you must spray it again. Trooper, I'm telling you this because I promised you I would. I reiterate that this is a Super Forum!
 
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Old 04-30-14, 05:14 PM
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Ya know... if WD40 works that long, I wonder how long a 'non-evaporating' lubricant would last? Something like one of those silicone based sprays? Not something that would get 'gummy' in time though, of course. I keep a can of 'Sewing Machine Oil' around for things like this that need lube but I don't want getting gummed up. Wonder if you can still buy the stuff?

Oh, sure you can!

Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 4 oz: Appliances : Walmart.com

Doesn't come in that metal can anymore though... I guess my can must be 30 years old by now and it's only half used up!

Thanks for coming back! Appreciate the kudos!
 
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Old 05-02-14, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I agree completely. The oil supplied with Wahl or Braun for their shavers would be the same as Singer, right?
 
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Old 05-02-14, 08:24 PM
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I would think so, probably one and the same!
 
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