Pricing new boiler for summer install.


  #41  
Old 03-11-12, 09:38 AM
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Your selected zone valve controller does not come with priority. You should get one that does for the indirect.
 
  #42  
Old 03-11-12, 10:05 AM
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Good point... use the 404.............
 
  #43  
Old 03-11-12, 10:09 AM
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What's the reason for using a circ for the indirect if it is set as priority? Wouldn't the system pump and a zone valve be just fine?
Since because the size of the boiler is somewhat 'compromising' the recovery time, you want to maximize flow through the indirect.
 
  #44  
Old 03-11-12, 10:20 AM
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Since because the size of the boiler is somewhat 'compromising' the recovery time, you want to maximize flow through the indirect.
I'm still not understanding the difference. Is the zone valve too restrictive? If that is the case, wouldn't upsizing the pipe diameter and zone valve size counter that?
 
  #45  
Old 03-11-12, 10:57 AM
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Hello Droo,
Taco 1" zone valves have a slightly lower flow rating than the 3/4". Go figure.
Last time i checked a 3/4" zone valve costs about the same or more than a 007. Bigger ones are much more.
So why not use a pump and also save a couple bucks on larger pipes and fittings.

Peter
 
  #46  
Old 03-11-12, 11:45 AM
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Your selected zone valve controller does not come with priority. You should get one that does for the indirect.
Ok I will fix that, when I clicked on the link for the manual, it gave me the wrong one, it was linked to a 4 zone with priority switching.

1 inch and 3/4 is what I have there now for the existing heating loops, if it doesn't make sense to run the 1 1/2 then I will reduce it to 1 1/4.

I forgot to add the swing check for the indirect I will do that, I dont want to use any of the existing stuff as both of those swing checks have stuck open on me in the past and gravity fed the house to almost 80 in October.

And point well taken about the flue piping, when I was reading the manual I was looking at the "do-not" section and said "hey that looks just like my set-up"

The revised list, I think I'm getting closer.



That motor is a small block, I always had more luck with SB's, with the tranny and rear in my car it likes to be shifted at about 7200.....

 
  #47  
Old 03-11-12, 12:00 PM
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Powerslide? Is that a TC I spy in the bell housing? How much mani pressure you run? Any YT vids up?

And not to be tooooooo far off topic:

That's the Grundfos Alphalfa in the part listing?
 
  #48  
Old 03-11-12, 12:21 PM
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Rodger that, NJT, that's an Alpha number.

Peter
 
  #49  
Old 03-11-12, 12:29 PM
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Hello Super Charged,
My local heating guys like the Spirotherm better, due to leak potential from the big Taco.
If you get the big Spirotherm, you won't need the little Taco vent - 400-4.

Here is a number for a Spirotherm: YJR-125
Less $$ than the Taco!


Not sure i understand the need for 2 swing checks.


Peter
 
  #50  
Old 03-11-12, 01:33 PM
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Some reasons to go with a dedicated circulator for the indirect. Not all apply in this installation.

- match the required flow rate for the indirect to help achieve rated performance.
- avoid delay between DHW call and actuation. This is a big-time issue with heat-motor zone valves that can go 30-90 sec before anything starts flowing.
- some boiler controls (e.g., tekmar 260; and IIRC, the Taco-badged versions of tekmar stuff) will not enable DHW priority on a zone valved indirect.
- avoid confusion on the part of a 'smart' circulator like an Alpha, which when dialed in to the load variations of the space heating is really awesome, but may see DHW calls as noise/error and not provide the flow desired.

Make sure you get the Alpha with the terminal box, not the line cord. Will make a much cleaner tie-in to the ZVC.

I loved my old Spirotherm. I love my Taco 4900. Either are very good. IIRC the leak problems are with the Taco Vortech thing, which basically sits a 400 vent in a cast iron bowl. You can't see the water corroding away in there until it's really bad....

I see you spec-ed the 4900. Now you do not need the 400.
 
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Old 03-11-12, 01:38 PM
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And not to be tooooooo far off topic:
For purposes direct and center, for all impratical purposes, isn't a racing automotive engine a rather big and powerful boiler?


P
 
  #52  
Old 03-11-12, 03:09 PM
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Not sure i understand the need for 2 swing checks.
The piping diagram for the boiler shows one before the indirect and another before the return piping enters the boiler.

I see you spec-ed the 4900. Now you do not need the 400.
Once again I was referring to the boilers piping diagram for my materials list, it shows a second air vent at the highest point above where the heating loops tie in to the return.



Powerslide? Is that a TC I spy in the bell housing? How much mani pressure you run?
No TCI, Dynamic TH400 Full Competition, Reverse manual valve body, Dynamic 3400 stall. How much boost? 10 pounds with the blower under-driven 12% for cruising, swap pulleys and overdrive it 12% 18 pounds, and that's when stuff starts breaking......


isn't a racing automotive engine a rather big and powerful boiler
More like a big air pump, the more air you can get in the better.
 
  #53  
Old 03-11-12, 03:36 PM
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Ahh i see,
That 2nd check is for the bypass loop.
"if required"
hmmm
Where's RBeck when we need him.
lol

Peter
 
  #54  
Old 03-11-12, 06:04 PM
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No... the 2nd check is so when the indirect is running you don't get flow in the main loop, and vicey versey...

18 pounds, and that's when stuff starts breaking......
Yeah, I bet!

Dangit, now you got me cruisuin the classifieds again... I sure wish I had time and energy for another car... Seen a real nice 67 Goat... only 29,999 !
 
  #55  
Old 03-11-12, 06:43 PM
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only..

No... the 2nd check is so when the indirect is running you don't get flow in the main loop, and vicey versey...
Thru the zone valves???

Peterr
 
  #56  
Old 03-11-12, 06:58 PM
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I see only one check on the indirect piping in that diagram. Remember the incompressibility of water. If the check is stopping the flow, it's not like 'extra' water is somehow piling in there.

You don't need a vent up there. This is a 'pumping away' setup. Positive system pressure throughout.
 
  #57  
Old 03-11-12, 07:02 PM
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Second check is on the return piping, just above the boiler Xiph...

Thru the zone valves???
Good point! I think yer right... especially not those Taco valves. I could see the potential for a Honeywell valve to 'backflow' though... but yeah, that check would prevent reverse flow through the bypass.

I have to admit, I have only been looking at the pics of the Chevelle and not paying a ton of attention to the boiler talk.

You may not need that bypass, in fact, probably not.

I just scanned back and looked to see if you told us what kind of radiation... fin tube baseboard? If so, lose the bypass and you probably don't need that second check.

Is there a reason you chose the Taco zone valves that you did?
 
  #58  
Old 03-11-12, 07:20 PM
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Yes it is fin tube, I have no experience with zone valves, so I read the information about each model and went with a brand I do have experience with, all of the Taco products I have bought for this boiler and my last house's furnace were Taco. Seems to be the favorite brand of my local plumbing supply house. So I figured Taco zone controller- Taco zone valves.
I have also read that in a system like mine where the return water is still very hot due to being relatively small heating loops and no radiant floor heat, that a bypass might not be necessary, I dont have one now and if I dont need it I wont put one in, just wasn't sure if it was one of those things that it was easy enough to do if I am replacing the whole system to just go ahead and install it.
 
  #59  
Old 03-12-12, 03:57 AM
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Oh, that check. Yeah, need rbeck.

I would install the bypass. Always nice to have the option if you need it. Which as you note, probably not.
 
 

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