Honeywell Aquastat L8148E
#41
10-09-12, 06:36 PM
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#42
10-09-12, 06:54 PM
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climbs up from there
Batteries in the meter OK? Does it act the same way when you touch probes together?
I still need to look at the specs on your valve to see what the current draw will be, and that should give an idea of what the ohms should be also.
#44
10-09-12, 09:01 PM
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Replaced the batteries in the meter, same behavior, shows 0.00, but climbs to 10.7 ohms in about 8 seconds.
I'm thinking for grins I'll at least fuse the a'stat, replace the melted wire from the a'stat to the valve, and ensure I have a couple fuses. Unless 10.7 is just way off what that valve should be showing.
Thanks,
jon.
I'm thinking for grins I'll at least fuse the a'stat, replace the melted wire from the a'stat to the valve, and ensure I have a couple fuses. Unless 10.7 is just way off what that valve should be showing.
Thanks,
jon.
#45
10-09-12, 09:13 PM
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Yeah, why not... if you blow a couple fuses, no big whoop.
It don't sound right though... I'm pretty sure there's a problem with the valve but can't hurt to try!
You said that was a clamp meter, right? You could also measure the current draw of the valve using the clamps... if you loop the wire more than once through the clamp you can increase the sensitivity of the meter. If you put two loops of the wire through you will read double, etc...
Of course not BOTH wires, just ONE of them, but you knew that already, diddincha?
It don't sound right though... I'm pretty sure there's a problem with the valve but can't hurt to try!
You said that was a clamp meter, right? You could also measure the current draw of the valve using the clamps... if you loop the wire more than once through the clamp you can increase the sensitivity of the meter. If you put two loops of the wire through you will read double, etc...
Of course not BOTH wires, just ONE of them, but you knew that already, diddincha?
#46
10-10-12, 08:15 AM
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FIRE!
3amp fuse, from the high limit to b1, and a replaced wire to the valve. Double loop on the b1 wire only (I did know that, but gentle reminders are always good!) showed 1.1A draw, so right on spec for that valve it seems. I didn't catch a surge when it opened, but the 3amp fuse made it through a couple cycles.
Off to the plumb/heat store and get a wire rated for the heat/ac load - my patch wire won't cut it.
Thanks again,
Jon.
3amp fuse, from the high limit to b1, and a replaced wire to the valve. Double loop on the b1 wire only (I did know that, but gentle reminders are always good!) showed 1.1A draw, so right on spec for that valve it seems. I didn't catch a surge when it opened, but the 3amp fuse made it through a couple cycles.
Off to the plumb/heat store and get a wire rated for the heat/ac load - my patch wire won't cut it.
Thanks again,
Jon.
#47
10-10-12, 04:28 PM
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Jeeze dude! Skeert the poo outta me!
All I saw was FIRE!
And then I scrolled down and saw the rest of it...
So I guess it's gonna remain a mystery why your meter started at 0 and drifted up to 10 ohms, and what was it that blew the fuse in the a'stat?
You might have to go to electric supply to find that wire.
All I saw was FIRE!
And then I scrolled down and saw the rest of it...
So I guess it's gonna remain a mystery why your meter started at 0 and drifted up to 10 ohms, and what was it that blew the fuse in the a'stat?
You might have to go to electric supply to find that wire.
#48
10-10-12, 05:51 PM
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Apologies, but it was sure nice to see/hear that valve open.
Fuse in the a'stat blew for sure because the old wire to the valve was shorted, I sure think. Why the valve ohms buzz out gradually is weird - I hope I don't find out why on a really cold day!
But more, what caused the wire to partially melt the 105c coating? Valve for now is pulling < 1 amp, so not much heat there. Maybe just 25 years of use?
Anyhow, at least 15 phone calls - electrical supply, plumbing supply, etc and no dice. Some folks would order it for me. Graybar won't sell to me. Grainger would sell me a spool for $125! I needed 4'. Found some 16G 105 C rated wire at Lowe's of all places. I was about to flag down a furnace/mechanical van and plead my guess because I knew they had a spool of it in there.
Thanks,
Jon
Fuse in the a'stat blew for sure because the old wire to the valve was shorted, I sure think. Why the valve ohms buzz out gradually is weird - I hope I don't find out why on a really cold day!
But more, what caused the wire to partially melt the 105c coating? Valve for now is pulling < 1 amp, so not much heat there. Maybe just 25 years of use?
Anyhow, at least 15 phone calls - electrical supply, plumbing supply, etc and no dice. Some folks would order it for me. Graybar won't sell to me. Grainger would sell me a spool for $125! I needed 4'. Found some 16G 105 C rated wire at Lowe's of all places. I was about to flag down a furnace/mechanical van and plead my guess because I knew they had a spool of it in there.
Thanks,
Jon
#49
10-10-12, 06:10 PM
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I hope you bought a few extra feet for future use!
Maybe you might be able to rig up some sorta 'radiation shield' to keep the heat from the burners from radiating onto the conduit?
Scrap of aluminum sheet... or something like that.
Maybe you might be able to rig up some sorta 'radiation shield' to keep the heat from the burners from radiating onto the conduit?
Scrap of aluminum sheet... or something like that.
#50
10-10-12, 06:48 PM
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Thinking the same thing, but the last run of wire is inside the boiler box when the burnham case is on. I may run the conduit outside somehow and keep very little of the valve control wire inside the "FIREbox". Hope that did not scare you again!
Amps are pulling correct with the new wire, High limit turned it off. Call for heat turned it off. Good to go. Thanks so much.
jon.
Amps are pulling correct with the new wire, High limit turned it off. Call for heat turned it off. Good to go. Thanks so much.
jon.
