Boiler Feed Water Regulator, Serviceable?

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Old 09-26-12, 10:49 AM
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Boiler Feed Water Regulator, Serviceable?

Although not critical, the fresh water feed regulator for my boiler system is stuck shut.
I kept very close tabs on the water pressure all last year and will do so again this year.
I am however wondering if the existing regulator is at all serviceable.

I don't have the make or model handy and the picture I have is not that great. This is the best picture I have on hand currently of the current regulator.
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Old 09-26-12, 12:35 PM
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IMO, just replace it. Your setup makes it easy with the isolation valves.
 
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Old 09-26-12, 03:30 PM
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Looks vaguely like a Watts 1156... if in doubt, I agree, replace it. IF you can find the parts you can rebuild it, but last I checked the rebuild kit was near the price of a new one.
 
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Old 09-26-12, 03:51 PM
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Pressure reducing valves seem to most often fail by leaking past their seat rather than sticking shut. I presume that you have tried lifting the manual fast-fill lever? If you are able to lift it up, and no water is let into the boiler, the inlet strainer on the PRV may be plugged.
 
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Old 09-26-12, 04:28 PM
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If you do find the strainer clogged, you might want to consider adding an extra couple items like this guy did ( who, me? ) to the water supply equipment when you fix it up:



Left to right, Watts 1156 , Watts 9D backflow preventer , Wye strainer , drain valve to periodically flush the stagnant water and any debris from the water line.

Also, something occurred to me as I was installing the 1156... I think the body is cast iron? Sure looked like it to me... and that fresh water has O[SUP]2[/SUP] in it... and won't water and O[SUP]2[/SUP] rust cast iron?

I think when I need to replace this I'm going for a valve of brass...
 
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Old 09-27-12, 05:20 PM
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I like the idea of a wye strainer ahead of the PRV valve. But, I would put a ball valve and elbow on the valve's wye leg. That way, the strainer can be cleaned/flushed by opening the ball valve into a a bucket.

Cast iron is quite impervious to corrosion - think of cast iron sewer/water lines, manhole covers, etc. Cast iron is still a primo material for those applications. Steel, not so much - which is why you find galvanized steel pipe, and why air eliminators are needed for black-steel, hot-water heating systems.
 
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Old 09-27-12, 05:44 PM
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P.S. My PRV is a Bell & Gossett. The data sheet shows a number of different B&G model numbers, but all the PRVs are brass. In their dual unit valves, with a PRV and relief valve in series, the relief valves are either brass or iron, but the PRV is always brass. All are painted (red of course), so you can't go by visual inspection.

Check your Watts valve with a magnet. Brass would be perfect, but iron (not steel) should be OK.
 
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Old 09-27-12, 06:06 PM
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P.P.S. If you like my suggestion of a ball valve and elbow for flushing the wye strainer, get at 120 deg el, not 90 deg. That way, the discharge will point straight down into your bucket.

If a magnet attracts to your PRV, I would assume it is iron, not steel. I can't imagine Watts using steel.
 
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Old 09-27-12, 06:53 PM
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put a ball valve and elbow on the valve's wye leg
Yupper... that's gonna happen. It probably isn't a good idea to use a ' Y ' connector to share the same drain with the one that's on the 9D, but it would be an easy way to go, there's already a bucket there!

get at 120 deg el, not 90 deg
Surely you meant a 45 ?

I like the B&G reducing valve better anyway... don't know why I went with the Watts... wasn't thinking clear when I placed the order I guess.

The B&G valve also has the 'plug' on the bottom that allows one to remove and clean the strainer inside. The Watts you just don't have that option.

think of cast iron sewer/water lines, manhole covers, etc
... engine blocks ... when was the last time you saw one of those rusted through?
 
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