AquaSmart with Taco SR504 wiring questions

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Old 09-30-12, 09:27 AM
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Post AquaSmart with Taco SR504 wiring questions

First I'm new here. I have 2 questions

1.) I have 1/2 installed G125be with 3 zones (on circ pumps) plus indirect H/W. I have for boiler control a 7600 AquaSmart and and pump control a Taco SR504. None of the instructions seem to help with some of the wiring. There is a priority zone connection in the SR504 but the Aquasmart suggests drawing the power to that circulator from it's C1 & C2 terminals? Do do that and ignore the priority zone in the SR504 which has a on/off switch for priority? Or do I use the priority zone of the 504 and ignore the C1 & C2 of the Aquasmart? Also what wire size would be good for these connections?

2.) Now the installation book with the 125be has a 7 pin cable going to the burner, pump and other componets . It shows only using 3 of the leads on the other end going to the control (which in the book is a HW L7248 that I traded in towards the aquasmart) It shows cable wire 4 going to B2 in Aquasmart, and wire 11 going to B1 with green to ground. Do I use those same connects which are present in the aquasmart? Is pin 11 how the burner gets it's 120V? And do I remove these wires for the cable end or do they make an adapter?

Thanks for any help as there are many rev updates to all the instructions I find but none are clear on this.

Thanks Jesse
 
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Old 09-30-12, 10:06 AM
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the Aquasmart is fairly similar to the Hydrostat 3250

1. Use #12 awg BX

2. The Aquasmart manual has a schematic for a zone relay panel, like you said, it suggests to wire your heating zones via the zone relay and your water heater to the Aquasmart. I think you could wire the IWH circ to the SR504 and leave C1& C2 in the Aquasmart alone. Thereafter, you might need to wire the end switch of SR504 to the end switch in the Aquasmart, and of course connect the IWH circ to the priority zone points in the SR504.

3. This is the proprietary Buderus burner, right?
ok, looking at the wiring schematic, wire 4 to B2 (white = neutral) & B1 (black = hot) to 11, ground to ground of course.
it's a plastic harness type connector, right? you might be able to find one in electrical supply store that matches and make a nice & clean connection between Aquasmart & burner, or clip the connector and strip the 3 wires that you need, and cap the others not used.

Buderus designed this boiler to be used with the Logamatic, which would have been plug n' play. I would check to see if you're voiding any warrantees by making this wiring modification.
 
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Old 09-30-12, 06:25 PM
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1. Use #12 awg BX I tried HD and Lowes and looked on the internet could only find 12/2 solid copper BX. where can I find 12awg BX

2. The Aquasmart manual has a schematic for a zone relay panel, like you said, it suggests to wire your heating zones via the zone relay and your water heater to the Aquasmart. I think you could wire the IWH circ to the SR504 and leave C1& C2 in the Aquasmart alone. Thereafter, you might need to wire the end switch of SR504 to the end switch in the Aquasmart, and of course connect the IWH circ to the priority zone points in the SR504. what does connecting the end switch on btoh units do??

3. This is the proprietary Buderus burner, right? yes
ok, looking at the wiring schematic, wire 4 to B2 (white = neutral) & B1 (black = hot) to 11, ground to ground of course.
it's a plastic harness type connector, right? you might be able to find one in electrical supply store that matches and make a nice & clean connection between Aquasmart & burner, or clip the connector and strip the 3 wires that you need, and cap the others not used. Ok so if I only use 3 wires from the burner going to the Aquasmart how does this thing control how thw boiler makes heat in a way that will save fuel?

Buderus designed this boiler to be used with the Logamatic, which would have been plug n' play. I would check to see if you're voiding any warrantees by making this wiring modification. This boiler came with only the Honeywell 7248 aquastat control the Logamatic was an option.... Do you know if it is worth the money over an aquasmart. My supply guy says the aquasmart will do most of the same thing for less. I don't see how because I don't see how it controls things.

Opinions out there welcome

also my plumber put a safgard low water cut-off in the supply water line right out of the boiler. I didn't think this was needed?
 
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Old 09-30-12, 07:48 PM
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1. AWG means, I believe, American Wire Gauge, and 12 is the gauge of the wire, so 12/2 is 12 AWG wire, 2 conductors plus a ground, 3 wires all together.

Chances are that what you will find at HD is type MC cable. That's the one you want. MC has a full size ground with green insulation on it. It also will most likely have an aluminum jacket which is MUCH MUCH easier to work with than the steel variety.
 
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Old 10-01-12, 04:10 AM
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1. Any hareware store will have the BX MC AC etc. You can see & count the wires. Just make sure it's #12, #14 is too light, #10 is heavier and stiffer.

2. connecting the end switches makes the 2 units able to communicate with each other, not in detail but rather a on/off type commands.

3. the burner is simply controlled by turning on/off when supplied 120V from B1&B2 in the Aquasmart. The fire burns for as long as the burner is supplied voltage and once temperature setpoints sensed by the AqSm are reached, the voltage will then be cut off, and burner powered off

4. The low water cut-off you described is most likely required by your State's plumbing & heating regs and the AqSm has a probe that is immersed into a well for serving this protection feature. The probe has a 'leash' that plugs into the AqSm, probably looks like a telephone style connector.

I have the 'sister' to the Aquasmart called the Hydrostat and I wouldn't doubt they are designed by the same company, just different appearances. The Logamatic will do more than you will ever need or use from your boiler, but it's extra cost might offer the desired plug n play simplicity that some homeowners want. The AqSm works on a heat curve thermal mapping algorithm, the Logamatic I think works as an outdoor reset temperture.

As long your Buderus can work with the AqSm, I think it's use is sufficient enough for your application. A boiler is just a boiler, really.
 
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Old 10-01-12, 07:25 AM
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Thanks Both TT & NJT..... more questions in red



1. Any hareware store will have the BX MC AC etc. You can see & count the wires. Just make sure it's #12, #14 is too light, #10 is heavier and stiffer. It looks like your supposed to bring one 120v feed for everything as the AqSm sends pwr to the Burner and they suggest feeding the SR504 off a same switch with the Aquasmart. They gave me no data on burner but pumps are less than an AMP and AqSm & 504 are just controls?

2. connecting the end switches makes the 2 units able to communicate with each other, not in detail but rather a on/off type commands. should wire here be thermostat or ?

3. the burner is simply controlled by turning on/off when supplied 120V from B1&B2 in the Aquasmart. The fire burns for as long as the burner is supplied voltage and once temperature setpoints sensed by the AqSm are reached, the voltage will then be cut off, and burner powered off So the energy saving must be simply done by the AqSm keeping track thru the sensor of how long it ran and how often between runs??

4. The low water cut-off you described is most likely required by your State's plumbing & heating regs and the AqSm has a probe that is immersed into a well for serving this protection feature. The probe has a 'leash' that plugs into the AqSm, probably looks like a telephone style connector.
The only sensor on AqSm is the one in a well so I don't think it can determine water level. BIG question here for me as I want to put my AqSm about 7 feet from the boiler, is the cable actually the same as phone cord? I bought a 12' phone coard and it has same number wire (dif colors who cares) and it does plug in?

I have the 'sister' to the Aquasmart called the Hydrostat and I wouldn't doubt they are designed by the same company, just different appearances. The Logamatic will do more than you will ever need or use from your boiler, but it's extra cost might offer the desired plug n play simplicity that some homeowners want. The AqSm works on a heat curve thermal mapping algorithm, the Logamatic I think works as an outdoor reset temperture. Yes and they have an outdoor reset option for the AqSm do you think it's of more money savings value?

As long your Buderus can work with the AqSm, I think it's use is sufficient enough for your application. A boiler is just a boiler, really.
 
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Old 10-01-12, 12:00 PM
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1. The Aquasmart probably has a few soft spots for knock-outs, these are where the wires penetrate the enclosure, you will need special BX strain reliefs for each penetration.
My Hydrostat has the following penetrations:
a. 1 BX 3-wire coming in for power (comes from the service switch which also feeds 120 to the SR)
b. 1 low voltage pair (1 red & 1 white) for the end switch
c. the ground wire comes in at the bottom
d. the probe cable comes in from the back as well
e. 1 BX 'leash' to the burner, which has a harness connector on the end plugged in to the burner.

2. yes, thermostat wire

3. Basically yes, i dont know if it keeps track of how often the boiler cycles, but it measures the boiler water temp. The water leaves hot and returns cold, but based on the thermal mapping algorithm, it determines the optimal supply temp, so it's not going to let the boiler heat water to 180on a 50 deg day, but maybe 150, less burner run time, less fuel consumed. I think the AqSm has a low limit water temp setting so if the water temp is less than the setpoint value, it will not operate the circ pumps unitl the boiler has fired and heated the water to the target water temp. Otherwise, if the water temp is above the low limit setpoint and below the target temp, it will run the circulator(s) to utilize the heat already in the water until it's cool enough where the burner needs to fire again.

4. Actually, that probe is for both measuring temp and water level. It should have a small metal clip on it, if so, that's for the low water protection cicuit and that's why you need to run a green ground wire with a clamp around the water inlet pipe on lower side of boiler. If not long enough, you can buy extension 'kits'. Don't know if it's a phone wire. You can call Beckett and ask them about that detail.

5. I don't know if ODR and Thermal targeting combined are a great combination, or an ideal pair at that, it might be either/or. But from what I've researched the Therm targeting is better than ODR, but that comes down to opinion and experience, of which at this point i cannot offer my own. In my case, the boiler I purchased came with the Hydrostat, but also comes with AqSm too, so I went with this vs. the ODR.
Try out the one feature for the winter, see if it works good for you. All in all, the AqSm cost much less than the Logomatic, therefore, you're investment on return will recoup quicker.
 
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Old 10-03-12, 06:20 AM
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TT sorry been busy with a family issue(not over yet). may have to put project on hold.

you mention connecting the 504 end switch to the end switch on AqSm which looks like the AqSm uses "TW & TR" for that. I can't use that as it goes to the IDWH sensor on the side of the tank.

I'm not sure if I described whole sys. so I'll just describe again It's a G125be (not GE125be) with 4 zone pumps 3 heat and 1 IDWH. You already now my zone control. The IDWH will be priority through the AqSm because the 504 lets it have priority for an hr where the AqSm is only 20 min, don't think I need an hr.

Another unknown here would be the connection between ZR & ZC of AqSm & SR504. The connection spots are clear in diagram but what is the wire carrying is it 120 or signal? Can the be connected with 12/2 like most of the rest or thermostat wire? I did read one place where ZC is a hot 120 and ZR was a signal wire but none of the instructions I have indicate what to use for wire. And if one is hot and other is signal, can the signal wire be in the same conduit. Is it just and on/off signal or ??? Really would like to run both through same conduit to keep it clean looking.

Thanks as always
 
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Old 10-03-12, 07:28 AM
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no big deal, know what you mean - I have a 3 week old in my lap as I write this!

TW & TR are the end switch points - TT is nomenclature for end switch, R for red W for white wiring.
And it sounds like you will use the AqSm for your IDWH for the 20min feature, so the low voltage Red/White wiring pair from your IDWH sensor will connect to TR & TW. That was easy!

This will work out for you if in the future you ever need to add another zone to your heating system, you have those spare zone contacts in your SR - awesome

Now for tha blasted ZR & ZC dilemna!
For knowledge sake, On/Off signal requires low voltage 18 awg (red/white pair) wiring as a minium. You could use larger wiring for carrying the signal, but it's just more expensive to do that.

In your application, Since ZR is 120V hot, and the AqSm manual says to connect the ZC & ZR of each unit, I'd use a BX 12-2 cable to do this.

If you're using Conduit, you can fit as many wires in there as allowed by code, if you have an Ugly's Electrical Reference, this can help you determine the # of conductors you can run in a given size conduit.
 
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Old 10-05-12, 03:27 PM
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TT or anyone who might know, are you familiar with a safegard 550 low water cut-off. Is there and easy way to explain what they want for wiring? I think they want me to use the method (A same power source for control and burner circuit)? But when they say control do they mean the 550 or the AqSm control. If you go to this link it shows the A method and its the box A3 I don't understand. Where it shows the burner with neutral coming out and hot with some control limits? Is it saying to run a power source to 2 and 1 and then the burner supply to the 5550 as well as the pin 4 and 11 we taked about before. I have all the rest of the wiring done but really don't get this diagram.

Thanks
 
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Old 10-05-12, 03:38 PM
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Jesse, seems you forgot to put the link in?
 
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Old 10-05-12, 04:11 PM
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Not sure about the rest of your question(s), but the Safgard 550 is to be wired in series with the burner and control. To make it simple, you can wire the 550 directly to the boiler switch, and then "feed" 120V (and neutral) from the 550 to the next control in line (A'stat or high limit temp. control).
 
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Old 10-05-12, 04:57 PM
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Rocklege said it

Protective device so it's lined up in series with the 120V power supply circuit. It acts like a 'permissive'

Your AqSm didn't come with the 2n1 probe?
 
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Old 10-05-12, 09:20 PM
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NJT sorry your right no link so here it is.


http://www.bryanboilers.com/pdfs/Ven...50_750_opt.pdf
 
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Old 10-06-12, 07:25 AM
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TT or Rocklege,
My boiler (by instructions) is fed from My AqSm which is 7 feet away on a panel with a switch feeding it as well as my SR504. Burner power comes from B1 & B2 on my AqSm (a'stat). Are you saying to take the feed I was going to bring to the "switch before AqSm and SR" and now bring it to the 550 both hot and neutral. Then run that neutral to the burner switch nutted up to the AqSm L2 terminal. Then run a single black from P2 (on 550) back to feed the toggle switch that powers both the AqSm and SR504.
This will allow the LWC-off to break power from the AqSm and therefore the burner will not be fired if no water is present at the 550 probe?
 
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Old 10-06-12, 07:29 AM
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TT forgot this. Would it be worth the $ to get the 2N1 probe and pull the 550 out of my supply line before it gets filled with water. Sounds so much easier and the 550 has not been powered only plumbed so I couldn't return it but could sell on craigslist? Maybe get at least enough to cover 2N1
 
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Old 10-06-12, 12:00 PM
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The 2n1 would save you a bunch of time & material not having to wire it up - it's a major convenience factor and 1 less component to deal with.

It's your call really
1. how much for the 2n1?
2. how much for the 550 new, how much can you get for it on CL? Maybe the plumbing supply house would accept a return, never hurts to request that.
3. if you do sell it on CL, how long will it take to go?
4. how much $$ can you spring now? what's your tolerance...

With regard to your earlier question....
I would wire the 550 in series between the burner and AqSm. You could do it between the AqSm and Switch but wire it so that it wouldn't power off to the SR, in this case it would need to be a parallel circuit
 
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Old 11-28-12, 04:51 PM
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AquaSmart wiring

Hello all

I work for Beckett and had some input into the wiring book. I would have linked to it but our website is down right now.

In a nutshell, using the wiring diagram we have developed for the SR504 makes it so that you do not have to pay for a 4 zone panel on a 4 zone job if you hook up the pump for the indirect to the C1 and C2 terminals in the AquaSmart. Also it is just simpler to go into the options menu and turn on the the DHW priority and this will stop all the heating pumps and shut down the economizer. You can certainly use the priority zone on the SR504 but you would need to bring a parallel wire back from the priority pump terminal to ZR and set up the menu for DHW on ZR - just more work than is neccessary.

And lastly two things, If you set the SR504 for priority and the DHW pump dies you cannot have heat till it is fixed and the last thing is if the burner terminal is powered for 1 hour the AquaSmart sees that as the burner is not operating and will power up C1 and ZC so that all zone pumps will run constant and prevent freezups, again - once the priority zone on the SR504 starts the other zones cannot come back on and pipes can freeze.

Hope this helps
 
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