Baseboard help!


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Old 10-15-12, 10:27 AM
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Baseboard help!

Long story short..
I have one baseboard in my house I can't get to pass any heat. I orginally thought it was a blockage in the baseboard itself. So I went ahead and and cut it off the loop and made sure I could blow through it freely which is fine. Then I thought the manifold on the loop had an issue. So i had an extra set I could use and after I tested the baseboard I went ahead and cut it into the other manifold. Still no dice and there is no flow. Bled the snot out of it and only water comes out. I'm open to any possible ideas. I'm pretty capabale with plumbing so any suggestion would be appreciated. The last plumber suggested changing the manifold entry point which didn't work.
I'll ask a stupid question. Does the direction of the water flow determine where the bleeder should be? Could you bleed the wrong side? I'm getting desperate at this point with the the heating season about here.
 
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Old 10-15-12, 10:51 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

I don't think the side the bleed screw is on while make much or any difference. I'm assuming the baseboard is above the water source/loop?
Assuming your system is setup with the rads/baseboards in parallel to the source loop, It could be a missing or incorrectly installed diverter tee (correct name?). Basically my understanding is it's a reducer inside a tee which builds a bit of back pressure to force water up into the rad instead of simply going by on the loop. If I'm not mistaken, you should have 1 installed where the rad/baseboard reconnects to the loop.

The pros should be along shortly to correct my terminology and or offer more/better suggestions.
 
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Old 10-15-12, 11:24 AM
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Does the direction of the water flow determine where the bleeder should be? Could you bleed the wrong side?
Actually, yes, the location of the bleeder can make a difference. In general, bleeders should be installed at the DOWNSTREAM elbow where the pipe turns to go back down into the floor.

The reason for this is because as the pump runs, it will push any air in the system in that direction. With the bleeder at the upstream end, it is possible that you can get water out and still have a blockage.

Sometimes you can get different results bleeding with the pump stopped than with the pump runnning. This would depend on the slope of the baseboard run relative to the bleeder location.

For example, let's say your baseboard slopes downhill toward the downstream end and the bleeder is on the upstream end. Air may not be present under the bleeder if the pump is running, it will all move toward the other elbow... BUT, with the pump STOPPED and wait a few minutes, that same air might just float back to the other end and be able to be removed.

So, try bleeding both ways... pump running, and stopped.

What is the PRESSURE in your system? It always helps when bleeding to raise the pressure as high as possible without tripping the relief valve.

You mentioned manifolds... tell us how exactly the system is piped... do you have manifolds on the supply and the return with each zone or circuit feeding off these manifolds?

An air bubble is as good as a cork in the pipe at stopping flow. It takes a LOT of flow to move an air bubble down hill. Have you ever tried to sink a beachball in a swimming pool? Sorta the same deal with air in the pipes.

Are there 'purge stations' installed on your system? (usually found on the return side and would consist of a drain valve followed by a ball valve.

Are you able to shut (valve) off the flow to all the other zones in order to attempt to put the full force of the pump onto just this zone?

Can you take pictures of what you are working with?
 
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Old 10-16-12, 06:25 AM
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I will take some pics tonight and post them. Reversing the sides now will be pretty easy so I can do that this weekend. This crossed my mind originally. Follow up question. How much pressure should be in the extol tank. I checked and it's pressurized at 14. Looking forward to posting the addtional info and really do appreciate the suggestions so far.
 
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Old 10-16-12, 03:58 PM
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How much pressure should be in the extol tank. I checked and it's pressurized at 14.
If when you checked this you had any pressure in the boiler itself, you did not get an accurate measurement. The only way you can measure the air charge on an expansion tank properly is by de-pressurizing the boiler.

There are instructions for checking and charging expansion tank here, ignore the part about the relief valve leaking, just follow the instructions for the tank. I would like to see your pics before you start though, in case there's something else to consider...:

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
 
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Old 10-17-12, 02:21 PM
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Def get those pics up. Expansion tank should be set to whatever your cold fill pressure is. Your cold fill pressure is set to the height from the boiler to your highest rad/baseboard divided by 2.31 plus 5 psi. So if its 23 feet from boiler to baseboard its 10 psi plus 5 psi, so 15 psi would be your cold fill pressure and tank pressure setting.
 
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Old 10-22-12, 08:17 AM
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So I think NJ Tropper nailed it about where the bleed screw is in realtion to water flow. I reversed the direction going into the baseboard and bled everything out. I now have heat in this baseboard. Thank you all who took the time out to answer me. You saved me from putting my head through a wall trying to figure this out.

if you guys think adding pics at this point for reference would help let me know and I can post them up
 
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Old 10-22-12, 02:28 PM
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Hi Art, I think if you got it bled out then there's no reason to post the pics... but I'll drop one of my own just to illustrate what exactly you were up against...

 
 

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