Gas fired hot water boiler not burning (Pilot light on)

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  #81  
Old 10-27-12, 08:30 PM
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Above the boiler room ceiling should be flooring of the living room
 
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  #82  
Old 10-27-12, 08:43 PM
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Above the boiler room ceiling should be flooring of the living room




Hmmmmm... Scary.... Where does the flue go???



 
  #83  
Old 10-27-12, 08:47 PM
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Hmmmmm... Scary.... Where does the flue go???
Some jackleg's idea of radiant floor heat?

Takkie, I think you need to get a pro in there to inspect that situation.

You and any other occupants of that building could wake up dead one morning and not even know it.
 
  #84  
Old 10-27-12, 08:53 PM
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I agree Takkie... Health and safety is the issue here IMO and I can no longer offer advice......

Please call in a pro.


After you respond I would probably close this thread.
 
  #85  
Old 10-30-12, 11:00 PM
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Hi!

Sorry for the late reply. i have been busy "taking care" of the hurricane.

i looked again at the flue. It actually goes up directly into Chimney. The ceiing of the boiler room is the floor of the living room. But the place where the flue goes up to , actually shows a 24 x 12" rectangular shape wall in the living room, at the corner. and i know all the way up in the roof in that same spot, has a chimney.

does this make it better?

I have already talked to someone about the walls in the boiler room.
 
  #86  
Old 11-05-12, 07:20 PM
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please help

Hi,

I was in my room earlier, and all of a sudden, i heard 'banging / clicking' noise coming out from the circulator.

It was quite loud, and i ran to the boiler room, and heard this banging / clicking loud noise, coming from circulator.

i already bought a couplar part for the B&G circulator, but have not replace it yet.

Based on this, will you be able to help me determine if its the coupler that needs to be replaced, or is it something bigger?

The noise sounded like, its releasing steam, or water flushing out... but there was no leaking water, or steam. and it came from circulator area. it was so loud that i shut off the boiler rightaway.

(I have not yet replace the replay yet)
 

Last edited by takkie; 11-05-12 at 07:47 PM.
  #87  
Old 11-05-12, 08:11 PM
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Takkie call a pro out ASAP.....................................

Do not wait any longer....

This thread is, or should be closed.....
 
  #88  
Old 11-05-12, 08:26 PM
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Hi.

Isnt this what DIY is about...?

If this is due to the "hazard" situation that you saw in the pcitures, then,

1) the ceiling goes up to the chimney directly, straight up.
2) drywalls removed
3) pressure relief pipe already turned to 90 degrees with extension pipe towards closer to flooring.

I am just looking for help with the circulator sudden banging noise... to see if its the circ itself , or if it could be coupler.

Thanks.
 
  #89  
Old 11-05-12, 09:11 PM
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The problem with the circulator is most likely a broken coupling. They are a little tricky to replace, usually have to disassemble the motor from the bracket the first couple of times you do it. If it broke because the motor mounting rings have rotted you need to replace those rings or the new coupling will soon break as well.
 
  #90  
Old 11-05-12, 10:42 PM
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Thanks Furd.

It is a broken coupling. I bought a coupling last week, but didnt replace it yet. I watched the video and just replaced the coupler. it was broken in 2 pieces.

I did not have the motor mount so i just put in the new coupler - its working again now.

I plan on replacing the pump with a Taco 007 next summer. But i dont know if this new coupler with an old motor mount will last till nx summer. How soon do you think it will last? Days, weeks, months?

ANother question - i noticed that there are 2 types of Taco 007 pumps.

- with Flow Check
- without FlowCheck.

they are the same price - which one should i be getting? I am guessing with FlowCheck is better?

Thanks,
 
  #91  
Old 11-05-12, 11:47 PM
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No way of telling how long the coupling will last, it might make it until spring/summer or it might break next week. You may be able to turn the mounting rings around and bring the motor into closer alignment. That assembly should be almost silent so if it is making noise the coupling's life is limited.

You do not need, nor should you install, the IFC (internal flow checks) model of the Taco 007 pump.
 
  #92  
Old 11-06-12, 07:03 AM
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if i get the mounting rings today, and install them this weekend with the "already 1 week old" coupler.

it should still be good, i guess? or need to replace coupler again?

Thanks
 
  #93  
Old 11-06-12, 03:21 PM
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As I previously wrote, no way of telling how long the coupling will last if the motor mounting rings are shot.
 
  #94  
Old 11-06-12, 04:01 PM
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I would just replace the pump.
 
  #95  
Old 11-06-12, 04:02 PM
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Isnt this what DIY is about...?

If this is due to the "hazard" situation that you saw in the pcitures, then,
Well yeah... But as professionals in the industry how can we continue to offer advice when there are code violations?

Not trying to be rude at all, but just looking out for you. Plumbers creed is Health, safety, and comfort. I stick buy that and try to stay as code compliant as I can. Others may disagree and give advice.

I mean what do you think? Should you continue to run that boiler? How can I tell you to do so?





http://www.doityourself.com/forum/at...ght-boiler.jpg




 
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  #96  
Old 11-07-12, 01:19 PM
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Well yeah... But as professionals in the industry how can we continue to offer advice when there are code violations?

Not trying to be rude at all, but just looking out for you. Plumbers creed is Health, safety, and comfort. I stick buy that and try to stay as code compliant as I can. Others may disagree and give advice.

I mean what do you think? Should you continue to run that boiler? How can I tell you to do so?
I guess may be there is a misunderstanding. The code violation that you mentioned, is cleared... as i have said in the posts below. (With pictures) I did what was suggested, and tried to stick to the code as close as i could as well.

I guess i dont understand why i was asked to contact a pro when i asked a follow up question about the coupler.

Anyway. I thank you for your and other's help. WIthout it, i couldnt get the boiler up and running to begin with.

Thanks.
 
  #97  
Old 11-07-12, 01:58 PM
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So I would say you ripped all those walls down?
 
  #98  
Old 11-09-12, 12:51 PM
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Yes. Behind those walls were all cinder blocks.

The pressure relief pipe is also straighten and extended with a 1.5' pipe, which points alot closer to the grounds.

Flue was already going directly up to chimeny, straight up, no turns at all.

All i was asking before is the coupler itself.

I bought the relay from PexSupplys and I do have some other questions about the relay install, but I am not sure if i am still welcomed to ask?

Thanks.
 
  #99  
Old 11-09-12, 05:09 PM
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Of course you are welcome. Ask any question you may have. I'll answer but it might not be tonight as I am away from home.
 
  #100  
Old 11-09-12, 09:54 PM
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Takkie, will you confirm to us that there is nothing combustible within 18" of that flue pipe now? (can we see? show us a pic please?) Not that I don't believe you, but it's all to easy to be sued these days...

What 'relay' are you talking about?
 
  #101  
Old 11-10-12, 09:45 AM
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Hello.

I confirm no combustible materials.

But i do not have 18" of clearance. I have around 13".

In order to get full 18", i have to remove alot of things, and now is not the best time to do it.

Thanks again for all of your help. I bought a relay from pex supplys which i want to replace on existing one. I have some questions, but i will open a new thread for it.

Thanks again.
 
  #102  
Old 11-10-12, 03:13 PM
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One thing that you can sometimes do to meet code is install a 'radiation shield' in between the combustibles and the flue pipe. Often all that is required is a piece of sheet metal.

You could always switch to double wall vent pipe too... but that stuff is kinda pricey.
 
  #103  
Old 11-10-12, 05:25 PM
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Trooper,

Can you elaborate the sheet metal?picture would be best.

Where to buy and how to put n.

Thx
 
  #104  
Old 11-11-12, 09:15 AM
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I looked for some pics yesterday but all I was getting was pics of outdoor thermometers...

Very basically, all you need to do is suspend a piece of sheet metal between the flue pipe and the combustible surface. There needs to be an air space on BOTH sides of the metal. In other words, you can't just tack the sheet metal to the combustible, it must be suspended with air space.

I've seen guys use a piece of 8" duct installed around a 6" duct. Cut some 'flaps' in the 8" to bend inward and screw onto the 6". Others I have seen were simply flat pieces of galvanized metal with 'spacers' between the combustible and the metal.

Check an HVAC fabrication house for the metal. They may even GIVE you some scrap cutoff pieces you can use. Home Depot and Lowes may have some smaller sheets of metal...

Look around, use your imagination and ingenuity.
 
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