Aquastat recommendation

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Old 11-05-12, 08:38 PM
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Relay replacement wiring confirmation

Hi everyone. I've been digging around and reading all kinds of install guides but they all seem a bit different to what was currently configured. My relay went out in my zone control, currently a Honeywell Type R832A.

I have a gas boiler that only provides single zone heating. There is one circulator motor and an aquastat on the boiler that then connects to the blower motor on the boiler.

The way it's wired currently is that the 120v mains hot is connected to terminal 1 on the Honeywell R832A and the neutral is tied to the neutral of the Aquastat L4006A, the neutral of the circulator motor, and then connected to terminal 2 on the zone control. The hot for the circulator is connected to terminal 3 and the hot for the Aquastat is connected to terminal 4. The thermistat connects to TT. When this would trigger it connects the hot from terminal 2 to terminals 3 and 4 which then turn on the circulator and the aquastat which then triggers the blower if the water temp is low. This sound right thus far? (That's definitely how it's wired, my logic on the flow of things could be off)

I'm replacing the Honeywell R832A with a Taco SR501. Now the question is this: With the way it was currently wired and following that same logic I would leave the neutrals all tied together still and connect that to terminal 2 on the SR501. I would then connect the mains hot to terminal 1 and then jumper that to both terminal 3 and terminal 5. Then I would connect the hot for the circulator to NO 4 and the hot for the Aquastat to NO 6. The thermistat would still go to TT on the SR501. If my understanding of the diagrams for the SR501 are correct then when the thermistat closes the loop it would trigger 3/4 and 5/6 to connect which would then supply power to the circulator and Aquastat.

I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to try and be as clear as I could. Any help is much appreciated.
 
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Old 11-06-12, 09:11 AM
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I guess the base question here is can I power 2 120v devices off of the Taco SR501 by connecting the neutrals and then connecting the hot from the hot terminal on the SR501 to terminals 3 and then to 5. Then connect the hot wire for a device to 4 and the other device hot to 6, Normally Open for each.
 
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Old 11-08-12, 03:02 PM
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Aquastat recommendation

I posted a thread a couple days ago asking for wiring assistance replacing a Honeywell RA832 switching relay with a Taco SR501 and didn't hear much and haven't been able to find much online. Digging into it a bit more I believe I found out why that was, I believe my system may be setup wrong to start with.

I have a gas boiler with 1 zone, so I have 1 circulation pump and a blower on the boiler that runs through a basic Aquastat l4006h1004. That Aquastat basically just switches the blower/gas on and off and has no means for hooking up a thermostat or the circulator pump to it. The Aquastat and Circulator pump both got powered from the RA832 when the thermistat would trigger it.

I believe, quite likely incorrectly, that I should have an Aquastat that controls the blower as well as the circulator pump with the thermistat going directly to it instead of trying to figure out how to wire both to the SR501. If this sounds right, what would be a "cheap" recommendation for one that's worked well for you? I was looking at the Honeywell L7224U1002 but it says it's for oil so I don't know that it's the right one but looks like the type of thing I should be trying to use for my simple single zone setup I have.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated or if anyones tried wiring a basic Aquastat and circulator to power through an SR501 (which is already on the way) that would be even better.
 
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Old 11-09-12, 09:02 PM
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I haven't seen your original post yet... been offline due to power outage for 12 days (Hurricane Sandy)...

Reading this post though leads me to ask:

What is the original problem you are trying to 'fix' ?

When you refer to 'blower', what exactly do you mean?

It doesn't sound as if there is anything 'wrong' with the original setup. The modern aquastats are simply all of your individual components in one box. If everything is/was working, there is nothing to do...

So, what's broken?
 
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Old 11-09-12, 09:08 PM
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Yes... if I understand your question and description of the wiring.

You can replace the 832 with the 501 as you describe.

I've merged this with your original thread and answered my question of 'why' are you doing this.
 
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