V8043 zone valve wiring - 2 wire t'stat

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Old 11-22-12, 06:44 AM
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V8043 zone valve wiring - 2 wire t'stat

Hi all (NJ Trooper where are you??)-
I am to the point of cutting into my heating system to add a 4th zone to a hot water baseboard system, at least one of my zone valves is a V8043 so I bought one of those. I saw a diagram here from NJ trooper that helps a lot (see attachment). Easy enough to follow. Tie end switch leads to other end switch connections. Fine. One wire from each 'stat' goes to the 24v voltage source. Other wire from each stat goes to corresponding zone valve.

Color wires used on my stats are red and white. So I don't know as far as TH and TR where these go on stat. This diagram with a tiny bit more detail would help.

Also, since I am technical myself, can read schematics a (in electronics/computers many years) understanding is there. What I am interested in is a step-by-step of how the heating cycle happens, i.e from when t'stat requests heat to when hot water starts flowing. Want the process. Understanding that will help he understand the wiring and have it make sense.

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!
 
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Old 11-22-12, 08:02 AM
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(NJ Trooper where are you??)
Been here all along except for 12 days because of you know who. I've emailed you a couple times and have replied here as well...

So I don't know as far as TH and TR where these go on stat.
Color codes aren't all that important. It's AC, not polarity sensitive. Just be consistent. Use the same colors throughout.

SEQUENCE OF TYPICAL HEAT CALL

1. Thermostat calls.

2. Respective zone valve opens.

3. When zone valve is open, it triggers ENDSWITCH (red wires or endswitch terminals)

4. Endswitch signal to boiler fires boiler and runs circulator attached to aquastat.

5. Boiler heats and pumps hot water.

6. If boiler water hits high limit setting (typically 180) before thermostat call ends, burner will shut down until water cools below aquastat differential (typically 10-15) but circulator will continue to run.

6a. If heat call ends before boiler hits high limit, skip to 8.

7. As long as any heat call continues, burner will continue to cycle on/off as required and circ will continue to run.

8. All heat calls end, system shuts down to wait.
 
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Old 11-26-12, 01:00 PM
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Trooper,

Thanks. Out of curiosity though what does TH and TR mean, acronym's for anything in particular?

And in searching the net a little more I see systems have a limitation on the number of zones. I have 3 and I am adding a 4th. I assume from discussions we have had that it's not a problem. I obviously am not in NJ to look at the furnace label but it's a Weil McLain HE-2 I think. I know I posted this in some other message here somewhere.

I have all the pipe run up to the furnace and the baseboard is in. I tested the pipes by getting a hose reel replacement hose, cutting the end off and fashioning a connection with a 3/4 to 1/2" gator bite elbow and half inch tube. Ran the water through system until water came out other side and then capped the other side with gator bite cap. All solder joints are good! THAT's a relief, one thing less to worry about. Just have to cut into the furnace feed and return and wire the zone valve. Also have to replace the drainage T and pressure reducer. STILL more work to do. Sigh.
 
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Old 11-26-12, 02:23 PM
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what does TH and TR mean, acronym's for anything in particular?
TH = THermostat

TR = TRansformer

The terminal on your new valve that is labeled TH/TR is simply a convenient 'tie point'. It goes nowhere inside the valve. You don't have to use it, but it is sometimes a convenient place to connect the two wires.

systems have a limitation on the number of zones. I have 3 and I am adding a 4th. I assume from discussions we have had that it's not a problem.
I don't recall where the source of 24VAC for your existing ZVs comes from... I presume that you have a separate transformer somewhere. I don't think the control in (or on) the W-M HE boiler has enough capacity to run ANY ZVs.

As long as you have a 40 VA 24VAC transformer that powers your existing valves, you should be OK to add a 4th one to that transformer. I believe that the 8043 ZVs draw about 7 VA each.

========================

Did you fix that leaking pipe at the water heater connection?
 
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Old 11-26-12, 02:44 PM
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There is a transformer on the side of the boiler, I will have to check that when I get back. And, uh, no on the water leak fix . That gets added to the list.
 
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Old 12-01-12, 09:42 AM
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Nj trooper - just checked and it looks like its a 20VA transformer. Am I out of luck? Regardless I am doing the cutting in to the feed and returns today, this has to get done. I assume if I had to I could get another transformer- either replace the one or add to it.
 
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Old 12-01-12, 09:56 AM
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Am I out of luck?
I don't know that a 20VA was ever 'in luck' if you already are trying to run 3 valves on that. On second thought, yeah, you were in luck because by all rights that 20VA should have been toast running 3 valves. Maybe they never all called at the same time...

Are you SURE that transformer is what is running the existing valves?

If so, you should simply be able to replace it with a 40 VA for about $20 or so.
 
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Old 12-02-12, 12:28 AM
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NJ Trooper, I'll check again but I see 120v 50/60 HZ 20VA printed on the AC box the transformer is mounted on. Do you know of any plumbing places open Sunday? Otherwise I have to wait until Friday as ill be in MD.

Plus I tried taking off drainage T that is rusted and no go. Tried removing circulation pump but it seems frozen in. Removed all 4 bolts from the flanges and I assume it should just pop off but it stays put. Don't know how forceful I should get here, don't want to cause leaks.
 
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