Heating system gone mad! Please help!

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Old 11-30-12, 05:56 PM
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Heating system gone mad! Please help!

I have a Laars Endurance Heating System (model EBP-110) currently in my condo. It was installed on 10-24-03, well before I moved in (2007). The other day my heat went dead. I still had hot water though. Figuring it was the cheap $20 Honeywell thermostat that I installed when I moved in, I replaced it.

I marked what I saw with the wires. White wire to W, red wire to Rh. I purchased an almost identical Honeywell and no change. I'd have the temp set to 72, and you'd head it click. But it wouldn't call for heat on the spot. After 30 minutes of waiting, the only way to get it going was to turn the system off then back on, reset used to work but now for some reason it doesn't.

If I removed the thermostat and connected the wires it would run unregulated. Didn't know if it THAT thermostat was bad...

So we had a family friend come take a look at it. He wasn't 100% as he mostly works with oil, and wasn't too familiar first hand with Laars. But he said that from what he's heard, they're a PIA to fix and parts are really expensive. Oy...

He bled the system and replaced the circulator pump as the needle on the testing thing was going extremely slow. 10 minutes later all pipes were scolding hot, and radiators were hot. It worked.

I took back the Honeywell and installed a Lux TX9100U because of National Grids $35 rebate. We like the house warmer so I set every day and time frame at 72.

So today we were moving stuff in and out and the door was open, it dropped a few degrees. The system started right up it went from 67 to 70, then it went quiet for a bit. A few minutes later it started up again and hit 72 and stayed there until I went to bed at 11am. I work 3rd shift so my sleeping is erratic.

Woke up at 6 and felt the cold right away, it was 65. Double checked the programming, maybe I missed a setting? Nope still set at 72. Gave it a another hour, never kicked on.

I had to go back to the heater and turn it off and on again. The heat is back up to 71.

This seems to be the theme. Once it drops below the set temperature, the thermostat won't control it. It has to be switched off then on, I'd say reset but like I mentioned that doesn't work.

PSI is about 20, and it requires a minimum of 12 to run properly.

Any insight would be a great help! Thanks
 
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Old 11-30-12, 06:48 PM
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Michael, I sense you are in the U.K., where heating practices a quite a bit different than in the U.S., where most of us here are located. But, thermostats are the first thing suspected and replaced, becuase they are so easy and conspicuous - but a are seldom the problem.
 
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Old 11-30-12, 06:50 PM
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I'm actually in Rhode Island.
 
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Old 11-30-12, 07:03 PM
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Why was your circulator replaced?

What is the temperature and pressure of your boiler?

What kind of radiators do you have?

the needle on the testing thing was going extremely slow
What testing thing?
 
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Old 11-30-12, 07:06 PM
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Michael, I've gotta run out for a few, in the meantime see if you can locate a manual for your boiler on line and drop a link here for us to look at.
 
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Old 11-30-12, 07:12 PM
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He put something next to the circulator pump that spins, it was barely spinning.

BFT is 183, PSI is reading approximately 21.

I've got baseboard radiators.

Here's the manual.

http://www.laars.com/LinkClick.aspx?...=1893&mid=6434
 
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Old 11-30-12, 07:16 PM
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Turning the power off and then back on making it work okay signifies a "soft lockout" device is causing the problem. Could be as simple as the flame detecting device is not always sensing the flame on start up.
 
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Old 11-30-12, 07:48 PM
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The user manual is of no use, I need the installation and service manual.
 
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Old 12-01-12, 09:16 AM
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This looks like EDP Install manual:
http://www.laars.com/LinkClick.aspx?...=1892&mid=6433
 
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Old 12-01-12, 11:14 AM
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Thanks Bill!

Do the boiler controls show any fault codes when the problem occurs? If so, what are they?

(refer to manual for more information about fault codes)
 
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