Peerless Boiler

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Old 12-16-12, 11:52 AM
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Peerless Boiler

Hi, I have a peerless boiler. The pilot light stays lit but the boilers wont ignite. Any help on where to start looking to fix? I hear the water running through the pipe but without the help of the heaters the house is very cold. Thanks for any response.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 12:11 PM
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Is the gas valve set to on? Sometimes people leave it on pilot by accident when re lighting.

Let us know.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 01:33 PM
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Yes it has been since I live in Ne it has been cold but it has been on for a month and all of a sudden it will not lite
 
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Old 12-16-12, 01:35 PM
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Another thing sometimes overlooked...

Have you checked the thermostat batteries?

Oh... wait... you said you can hear the water circulating, so I think it's safe to say that the thermostat is working and calling for heat.

Thing is, you shouldn't be able to hear the water circulating... it should be almost silent, and this leads me to ask, what is the PRESSURE AND TEMPERATURE reading on the boiler gauge?

What is the model of the boiler?
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:19 PM
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The PSI is pointing down at the 115 on the Fahrenheit and the Fahrenheit is on 60. It is a model MC03. Thanks so much for your input.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:21 PM
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If the pump is running, the pump relay must be getting 24V from the thermostat circuit, but the gas valve isn't. With a voltmeter, confirm that you aren't getting 24-VAC to the fuel valve terminals, and then work backwards to find out where the voltage is being lost.

Possible suspects are interlocks, e.g. flue damper switch, low-water cutoff, and aquastat(s). The thermocouple must be OK or the pilot wouldn't stay lighted.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:27 PM
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The PSI is pointing down at the 115 on the Fahrenheit and the Fahrenheit is on 60. It is a model MC03.
Those gauge readings don't make sense. Please post a closeup photo of the gauge.

Who is the manufacturer of the boiler?
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:45 PM
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I am trying to attach the image but it seems like I cant
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:53 PM
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sorry but I keep trying to upload and attach, I cant seem to get it on here. Thanks for your help but I am at a loss trying to post the pic.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 02:54 PM
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Post it on one of the freebie image hosting sites, such as photobucket, and post the link here.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:09 PM
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Old 12-16-12, 03:11 PM
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Yes, set up a free account at Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing | Photobucket and upload your pics to a PUBLIC album. Come back here and give us the link to that album.

Your link is to photobucket itself, doesn't help us, you need to post the link to your own album...

Who is the manufacturer of the boiler?
Ummmmm, Peerless? (I know, my old eyes get tired sometimes too!

Series MC/MCB

Calapino, do you own and know how to use a multimeter?
 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:16 PM
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Yes it is a peerless only about 7 to 8 years old
 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:18 PM
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I'll save the trouble for you...

Your gauge is CLEARLY broken!

 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:21 PM
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Oh boy I have no clue... I was a construction drywaller owner but now an accountant. I guess I just might have to call a professional. I don't like messing with the gas stuff. I really appreciate all of your help. It's Sunday so I thought maybe I could quick fix it. At least the manacotti in the oven is keeping us warm. You all are Great and I appreciate any input
 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:24 PM
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So I guess I need a new gauge? Any Idea how much they run?
 
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Old 12-16-12, 03:32 PM
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Yes, you need a new gauge eventually, but that is NOT the cause of the no heat you have now.

On the "hood" above the boiler there is a small thingy with two wires on it. There MAY be a small red pushbutton on that thing... if there is, give it a push and see if it stays in and the boiler runs.

There is another safety switch down by the burners but it is NOT resettable, so if that tripped it will need to be replaced.

SOMETIMES these switches just trip for no obvious reason as they age... like me... I do that sometimes... but sometimes they trip for a safety reason, such as a blocked flue/chimney, or a blocked boiler (rust and soot in the heat exchanger).

Take a look at that round motor thing on the flue pipe. There should be an indicator whether it's OPEN or CLOSED. That's your FLUE DAMPER. If it doesn't open, the burner will not fire. Do NOT try to turn it by hand (or with a tool), if you do you will damage it for sure. It may already be broken, but it might not...

It could be something else as well.

I wanted to know about the pressure gauge so I could get an idea of why you hear water in the pipes. Check the following post link and see if this is something you think you could tackle yourself (I bet it is!, if you can throw mud, you can do this!)

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html

By the way, I was outside earlier and I can smell that Manicotti all the way here in NJ! Oh wait, I think that's the Lasagna in my oven! Either way, I'm hungry!
 
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Old 12-16-12, 04:03 PM
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calapino's Library | Photobucket

Ok I looked and tapped on the psi it went up then I tried the red button but I don't think that works or pushed in. Do you think it's the flue then?
 
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Old 12-16-12, 04:06 PM
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oh PS I hope you lasagna is yummy... still waiting on my manacotti
 
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Old 12-16-12, 04:36 PM
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I hope you lasagna is yummy
Oh it will be! Mia moglie sa cucinare!

Ok I looked and tapped on the psi it went up then I tried the red button but I don't think that works or pushed in.
If that switch was tripped, that red button would have popped out and you would have felt it when you pushed it in. It takes a little bit of force to push some of those, so don't be afraid to give it a real push. I mean, don't let your inner gorilla push it, you know what I mean.

If it was not tripped and already in, you would know that, and I think that is the case.

Do you think it's the flue then?
You mean the FLUE DAMPER?

Take a look on the other side of the pipe, opposite where the motor thingy is. There should be the end of a flat shaft visible. There may be markings there that say "OPEN" "CLOSED"... in general, when the flat shaft is VERTICAL that means it's open, if HORIZONTAL it means closed.

There also may be a small 'slide' switch on the side of the black motor housing. It should be labeled "HOLD OPEN" or "ALWAYS OPEN" or something like that... if the damper is NOT open when the thermostat is calling for heat, you could try switching that switch, but it probably won't open if the motor inside is toasted...

But first, let us know if you can tell open or closed when calling for heat by looking at that shaft.
 
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Old 12-16-12, 05:17 PM
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The button does not push at all and I have never touched the shaft so I dont think that is an issue. I have tried switching that switch both forward and backward. I guess I need to stay home tomorrow and call someone with better eyes. I am so grateful for all of your advise but I can't seem to locate the problem.( you have given great detail which I have tried to follow but I just can't seem to find the problem) I guess I really don't have the expertise but again I am greatfull for yours. I will let you know tomorrow what the local eyes find. Thanks so much for the guidance. Hope your dinner is good. I kinda burnt my garlic bread
 
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Old 12-16-12, 06:02 PM
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kinda burnt my garlic bread
I actually prefer mine with some charcoal on it, I'll trade ya!

I looked and tapped on the psi it went up
Actually, went down... it was way off scale to the right in the first pic you showed, after you tapped it went down closer to 'normal'... but still, do not trust that gauge!

Well, that damper is supposed to be closed when the burner is not firing, and opens automatically when the thermostat calls for heat.

When thermostat calls for heat you should even be able to HEAR it opening...

But yeah, unfortunately, it's not any of the 'easy fixes' I'm afraid.

Good Luck, let us know what happens!
 
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