Removing hot water baseboard heater

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-31-12, 03:55 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Removing hot water baseboard heater

I want to remove a baseboard heat section from a small bathroom. The bath has no exterior walls and little floor space so I would like to remove it and maybe replace with radiant floor in the future. It seems a simple matter of draining the zone, cut out radiator and reconnect. I am wondering if: use PEX and shark bite connector are ok and after I am done how to purge air. (It is currently the last heater before return to boiler and the bleeder valve is located right before)
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-31-12, 04:06 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,892
Received 25 Votes on 23 Posts
Your plan sounds OK.... I personally do not like shark bites... Additionally if you use pex you need the kind with the oxygen barrier....

Not a fan....

What type of baseboard??? Cast, copper?....
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 12-31-12 at 04:41 PM.
  #3  
Old 12-31-12, 04:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for getting back to me. It is the cooper and fin type of baseboard. What "color" is the oxygen barrier PEX? White? I would prefer to use copper but thought the PEX would require less draining than using copper. How do I purge the air if the valve is located before the heater? Won't there be four feet of air in the pipe when I am finished? (that sounds sort of silly and unclear but can't think of how else to put is)
Should probably add that the house was on well water for years with loads of repaired leaks and a majority of "M" copper, thus will probably be switching just about every thing out to PEX (per plumbers who have been in to bid various projects)
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-12, 04:43 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,892
Received 25 Votes on 23 Posts
The air should purge from an air seperator or AAV that is at or near the boiler. This will occur after you get the main air out from a manual purge.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-12, 05:28 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 2,916
Received 7 Votes on 7 Posts
Just to satisfy my curiosity, could you post some photos of your situation? I'm having a hard time visualizing how removing a baseboard would increase floor space much - and then deal with all the complications.
 
  #6  
Old 12-31-12, 06:23 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 18,493
Received 33 Votes on 25 Posts
In addition, depending on how it is piped it is quite possible you can simply cap off the connections without worrying about anything else.
 
  #7  
Old 01-02-13, 05:54 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,739
Received 16 Votes on 15 Posts
In addition, depending on how it is piped it is quite possible you can simply cap off the connections without worrying about anything else.
This was my first thought when I read the OP.

By the sounds of it, the OP has the finned baseboards connected in series. If the baseboard was connected like mine (parrallel to a main loop), Cut --> Cap --> done.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: