How to prevent hot water heating pipes from freezing Antifreeze? Pump Exercisi

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  #41  
Old 01-14-13, 05:09 PM
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P.S. Where are you going for the winter? Can I go with you as your driver and runner to pick up pizzas and beer?
 
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Old 01-14-13, 05:21 PM
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do "all" boilers have a built-in protection that would shut down in case of insufficient water?
No, they don't. There are a few very recent aquastat products that combing LWCO (Low Water Cut Off) with the standard aquastat functions, but these aren't used on any new boilers that I am aware of.

As Gil said, LWCO can be ADDED to any system.
 
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Old 01-14-13, 06:04 PM
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NJ wrote:
As Gil said, LWCO can be ADDED to any system.
Thanks! Any suggestions for what LWCO I could easily add to an old boiler system?

(In recent posts I have inquired about replacing my (small DOE 50 MBH) boiler, but I'm finding it daunting to sort through all the warnings for newer aluminum & stainless steel boilers (e.g. PH in the make-up water supply, yearly PH testing, etc.) But since my yearly gas bill for heating & DHW is only around $700/yr I'm starting to think that instead I would do better to add LWCO, check my system for herein advice regarding expansion tanks, pressure relief valves, etc. Suggestions anyone!

PS -
Gillmorrie wrote:
Where are you going for the winter? Can I go with you as your driver and runner to pick up pizzas and beer?
Check out Puerto Morelos, just south of Cancun, Mexico...
Puerto Morelos Tourism and Vacations: 45 Things to Do in Puerto Morelos, Mexico | TripAdvisor
Viva Puerto Morelos Home
 
  #44  
Old 01-14-13, 06:16 PM
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Google: GuardDog. That is a popular LWCO which has been fine for me. You will have to install it in the piping and wire it in series with the fuel valve.
 
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Old 01-14-13, 06:24 PM
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But since my yearly gas bill for heating & DHW is only around $700/yr
If you could find a hypothetical boiler that would heat your house without burning ANY gas, and assuming the new boiler and installation would cost $7,000, your payback period would be 10 years.
 
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Old 01-14-13, 08:15 PM
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gilmorrie wrote:
If you could find a hypothetical boiler that would heat your house without burning ANY gas, and assuming the new boiler and installation would cost $7,000, your payback period would be 10 years.
Yes indeed, got it, and if I only saves me 20% the payback would be around 40 years... LOL!

Anyhow, could you please send more info on:
gilmorrie
Google: GuardDog. That is a popular LWCO which has been fine for me. You will have to install it in the piping and wire it in series with the fuel valve.
Thus far I am clueless on how i could proceed with the three links I found:
-- LOW WATER CUT OFF GUARD DOG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
--http://www.simplyplumbing.com/mcdonnellmil-144676.html
-- http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...-cutoff.html#b

Thanks, further comments would be highly appreciated!
 
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Old 01-14-13, 08:59 PM
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The second link is similar to mine and is connected directly to the 120V power, with the boiler control power being fed from it (not connected to the 24V circuit). It's an "immersion" sensor that must be plumbed right in the hot or return pipe--so the install point needs to be isolated by valves (if you have them) or the system drained down below the install point to install one.
Here's a much more helpful link (Pexsupply usually has brochures & manuals you can download):
PexSupply: Mcdonnell & Miller 144676

The way this type works is the probe inserted in the water and uses the water conductivity to pass the current to a sensitive coil on a relay. As long as there is water and the unit is plugged in the relay will be closed and power will pass on to your boiler & control transformer.



IMO there's no "right" answer to running your heating system in winter conditions in an unoccupied dwelling. It's risky and there's much that can go wrong. Much more than I anticipated :-\
I'm also going this route for the 1st time on a new (to me) cabin after going the full drain-down winterizing routine in my previous cabin for the past 5 years. I think I prefer winterizing for the peace of mind. I do have antifreeze in the boiler so I'm not concerned about that freezing but the domestic water supply is vulnerable. I turn off the pump power and valve when I leave.
 
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Old 01-14-13, 11:03 PM
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Guy wrote...
The second link is similar to mine and is connected directly to the 120V power, with the boiler control power being fed from it (not connected to the 24V circuit). It's an "immersion" sensor that must be plumbed right in the hot or return pipe--so the install point needs to be...
Thank you for sharing your insights! I'll use that for discussion with my plumber & electrician (though I doubt they are savvy enough...)

My higher wish would be for a "top 5" (or 10) items for how to prolong the life of a Hydrotherm cast iron boiler (50 MBH DOE) that has worked flawlessly for 22 years. (I.e. I am very skeptical of newer systems using aluminum or stainless steel and their cautioning about water PH, need for yearly check-ups etc - Yuck!

Can anyone suggest the "Top" 5-or-10 things that a thorough inspection of a home boiler would include? E.g. Low Water Cut Off, expansion tank and pressure relief valve inspection, etc?
 
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