Hot Water Baseboard/Kitchen Cabinet Issues

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Old 01-08-13, 07:56 AM
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Hot Water Baseboard/Kitchen Cabinet Issues

Hi there! This is my first thread, was just reading through a bunch of topics on this site and it seems very helpful! So I decided to give it a whirl..

Here is my problem: I have just recently bought a house (fixer-upper) and while I consider myself handy with general carpentry/electrical I really lack knowledge on plumbing. (have re-routed sink lines with pex/simple things, etc).

I am currently working on my kitchen and I am installing more cabinets. The problem is, where I want my cabinets to be against the wall there is Hot Water Baseboard running.

So I guess my question is, is it plausible for me to cut the baseboard and drop it below the floor then run it back up to where it ended previously? (It comes up through the floor, then travels across the kitchen wall, before entering directly through a wall to the living room)
So I would cut it in the basement where it comes up into the kitchen, continue the line through the basement until I got to the start of the living room, then put it back up through the floor and re-attach it there. I realize I would have to drain the line/do the work/re-fill the lines and bleed the air out. I'm just not sure the whole process.

I'm not really familiar with furnaces/plumbing (as I mentioned). But I love learning and I believe in myself! (haha not sure if that's enough!). On the other hand would there be another option? Cutting the cabinets to fit over the baseboard for example? I understand this would just keep my pots and pans warm, but would it be dangerous to have the copper so close to wood?

Any and all advise/help appreciated!

Cheers,

Tristan
 
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Old 01-08-13, 08:36 AM
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Welcome to the forum.
I'm assuming the baseboards are connected in series to each other and not coming from a main loop in the basement?
Is this the only baseboard in the room?

If the baseboards are connected in parrallel to a main loop, you could simply remove the baseboard and cap the feed (at both ends). My only concern about this or your other idea would be that you are taking away the main heating source in that room.

The previous owner of my home did this (for cosmetic reasons) and it's now causing my main floor to take longer to warm up.
 
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Old 01-08-13, 09:06 AM
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Tristan, are you suggesting that you intend to remove the heating in the kitchen? You do realize that it will get cold in there, don't you?

How many feet of baseboard do you intend to remove?

Are you familiar with 'kickspace heaters' ? These are installed under the cabinets, and have a grill placed in the toekick space at the base of the cabinet.

Beacon-Morris is one manufacturer of same.
 
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Old 01-08-13, 09:07 PM
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I have not heard of kick space heaters, but I actually have another baseboard in the room. The length of the baseboard to be removed is about 4 and a half feet. The other baseboard in the room is about 5 and half. There is litterally baseboard EVERYWHERE in this house haha!. I drew a (rough) diagram to help illustrate for you guys! Solid blue is current cabinet, dotted blue is new cabinet and red is baseboard. There is also a dinning room connected to the kitchen in the space below it, but I just drew the two rooms here. Let me know if I can give any other information, Thanks for the help! I hope this helps!


 
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Old 01-08-13, 09:12 PM
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Darn, image didnt work.. I'll try it as an attachment!
 
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Old 01-08-13, 09:45 PM
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Ya know what I would recommend you do?

Go here:

Contact Us - P.V. Sullivan Supply Co., Inc.

And download the SlantFin heat loss calculator.

Spend a few hours inputting the data from the home to get an idea of what the heat loss of the home is on a room by room basis. The output will tell you how much baseboard you will need in each of the rooms.

It appears that the living room is a large opening to the kitchen? So the heat from that massive amount of baseboard in there can 'communicate' to the kitchen?

Is the dining room similarly open to the kitchen? and does it also have a massive amount of baseboard in it?

If so, you MIGHT (and I mean this very tentatively) be able to get away with just removing that section.

4-1/2 feet of baseboard is about 2500 BTU of output. If both the LR and the DR are OVER RADIATED by that amount, and there is ample air flow between the rooms, you MIGHT be able to count on the extra heat in the adjoining rooms to take up the slack.

But before you decide, you need to run the heat loss numbers.

Here's the Beacon-Morris kickspace heater webpage if you haven't found it already.

Beacon/Morris Residential, Commercial, Heat, Hot Water, Steam, Gas, Kickspace Heaters, Hydronic, Oil.

The smallest model, the K42 would EASILY replace that section of baseboard if it is found to be necessary. Since these have 1/2" piping, you can NOT just plumb it in series as the baseboard was. You need to use what are called 'diverter tees' (aka 'monoflo tee') as shown in the diagram in this PDF

http://beacon-morris.com/modules/lit...litFileID=2541

You would need one of these:

108119 - Bell & Gossett 108119 - 3/4" x 1/2" Copper Red Ring Monoflo Tee

I would highly recommend using the flex hose kit in order to provide easy maintenance and installation:

http://beacon-morris.com/modules/lit...litFileID=1657

Lastly, make absolutely certain that you will be able to 'bleed' the air out properly. I would recommend an additional valve be installed (not shown in diagram) between the two tees on the main line to be used ONLY when purging the air out of the unit. It must be a FULL PORT BALL VALVE.
 
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