Will Aquastat L8124A 1049/B REPLACE 8124G 1020/U

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Old 01-30-13, 12:12 PM
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Will Aquastat L8124A 1049/B REPLACE 8124G 1020/U

Hi after finding that the aquastat is getting bad I looked up the cross-reference for my old L8024A and they say use L8124G 1020/U ... however a new L8124A 1049/B just happened to be available to me for half the price. Will this work, I don't really see any big difference in the specs. What do you think ?

The Specs. are here: L8124G Honeywell L8124G1020 triple Aquastat relay, multi-zone control up to 3 zones, 120V 60Hz

The deal L8124A Honeywell L8124A1007 triple Aquastat relay, line volt burner control, 120V 60Hz, 130-240F

What is the big difference if any, Thanks.
 
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Old 01-30-13, 01:19 PM
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Hi Ron, I'll take a look in my Honeywell book this evening... unless someone else answers in the meantime.
 
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Old 01-31-13, 02:59 PM
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Ron, sorry I didn't get to this last night...

Tell me a little about your system.

1.) Do you have more than one zone, and electric zone valves?

If so, 1a) are they currently being powered by the transformer inside the existing aquastat?

The "G" model has an extra large transformer for this purpose.

2.) Is your boiler also supplying your domestic hot water needs?

There are a number of possible replacements for the old aquastat.

3.) What do you mean it's "...getting bad..." what are the symptoms you are having?
 
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Old 01-31-13, 03:58 PM
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Hi .... The system has two Zones and have external tranformer, the aquastat is hooked into the hotwater well but we don't use it for hotwater anymore. Getting bad is last week there were no hot water circulating but the burner was running, I checked for voltage and there were no volts to pump, disconnected it and ran it off extension cord to get warm, then my brother had an old white rogers aquastat looked like it would work after pulling all the wire we then noticed the sensing unit was too large to fit into the well, mean while I cleaned the points and tried to get into the back of the high and low limit switch but couldn't so put it back together and it's been working ever since, so it didn't fix it self so figured I'd buy this cheaper one until I need it. I also posted the other day about removing the stack control and you answered me on that, I figured maybe that had something to do with it and was trying to eliminate what my problem could be, but if the stack control was my problem the furnace would not run, that's why I was thinking of taking it off as my furnace does have a riello burner with the cell cad. I will leave it connected as an extra safety. Thanks for your reply, hope you can figure this out for me .... thanks again.
 
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Old 02-01-13, 08:02 PM
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Since you aren't using the boiler for hot water anymore, why not consider saving some fuel and running the boiler as a cold start? Why continue to run a 'triple' aquastat with the low limit if you don't have to?

If you use the 7224, you can turn the Low limit on and off... use it or not... that's why it's a 'universal', one size fits all.

As for the other controls, I don't understand why whomever installed the Riello didn't abandon the old control scheme... if you are interested in doing that, and can draw an accurate wiring diagram, I can probably help you with it.
 
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Old 02-02-13, 07:40 AM
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Hi ... Thanks for your reply, but I'd just like to buy this other aquastat because it's cheap and wondering if it will work. The stack control is just wired from the aquastat where it says to burner, so I'm assuming if I want to disconnect it just run that wire that's going to the stack control and feed the boiler the 120 volts. So between the two aquastats that I have previously mention I would like to know if they are compatible or interchangeable. Thanks again.

What do you mean by from a cold start, the boiler would still have a high and low limit right ? ... or your thinking because the coil is not being used for domestic it will save from thinking it's heating for domestic ? .... I really don't know a lot about this, but have an idea kinda sorta lol.
 
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Old 02-02-13, 08:11 AM
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How cheap is cheap? Under $100 ? may be cheap enough...

As long as your system does NOT tap any 24VAC power from the aquastat, you can use the L7124A model. All the functions are the same. The "G" model simply has the bigger transformer to power up to two zone valves.

The stack control is just wired from the aquastat where it says to burner, so I'm assuming if I want to disconnect it just run that wire that's going to the stack control and feed the boiler the 120 volts.
This is where I want to be (and want YOU to be) VERY cautious! Disconnecting ANY primary safety control without being able to see a wiring diagram of how your system is set up, could prove dangerous. This is about the best advice I can offer as far as the aquastat goes.

We don't know exactly WHY the installer left the stack control still wired. We don't know for certain WHY the stack control tripped itself the last time. Making any changes to the control wiring without fully understanding it is literally playing with fire!

What do you mean by from a cold start, the boiler would still have a high and low limit right ? ... or your thinking because the coil is not being used for domestic it will save from thinking it's heating for domestic ?
Cold start boilers only have a HIGH LIMIT. In the absence of a heat call, the burner will not fire. The boiler can go cold.

Warm start boilers keep themselves in a certain range of lower temperature limit 24/7 for the simple reason of providing hot water on demand through the tankless coil. In most ppls opinions, this is a tremendous waste of fuel. Even IF one were still using the tankless coil, it is the most inefficient method of producing domestic hot water that there is... NOT using the tankless and continuing to keep the boiler hot 24/7 is simply ridiculous.

To use one of my favorite analogies... when you park your car in the driveway, do you leave it idling 24/7 in case you might decide to run out for a pizza later on? No... of course you don't!
 
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Old 02-02-13, 08:15 AM
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Here is the 'universal' L7224U replacement. How much cheaper is the other one you are looking at?

L7224U1002 - Honeywell L7224U1002 - 120 Vac Oil Electronic Aquastat

You can find these on ebay even cheaper...

New Honeywell Aquastat Electronic Controller L7224U 1002 | eBay
 
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Old 02-02-13, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for your help ... I'm not going to disconnect the stack controller as it's an extra safety to the cad cell. Kinda disappointed that your not able to tell me if the aquastats that I've mentioned are interchangeable, the L7224 is a good universal quick fix but that's not what I want. I would never turn the low limit off even if I could, this is an old cast furnace and when you want heat it's there right away, probably costing me a few more dollars. Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-02-13, 09:27 AM
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Kinda disappointed that your not able to tell me if the aquastats that I've mentioned are interchangeable
As long as your system does NOT tap any 24VAC power from the aquastat, you can use the L7124A model. All the functions are the same. The "G" model simply has the bigger transformer to power up to two zone valves.
Huh? Did I not say that you could use the "A" model?
 
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Old 02-02-13, 09:45 AM
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MY APOLOGIES ..... when I read "you can use the L7124A" the number through me off, you meant the 8124A and the 8124G and thought you were talking about the 7224 stat. So I understand now, thanks for pointing that out. I appreciate any and all help I get from these forums and the professionals that are giving FREE knowledge. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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Old 02-02-13, 02:38 PM
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Ohhhhh... yeah, that was my bad! I apologize too!

I did in fact mean the L8124A

Sorry 'bout dat!
 
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