hot water baseboard purge and pressure issues

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Old 02-07-13, 04:04 PM
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hot water baseboard purge and pressure issues

Hello. I have a hotwater baseboard system that started making a lot of rushing water sounds this season. I didn't think much of it until my second floor heat stopped working. Its all one zone and the rest of the house works fine. I did some research and found that I need to purge air. First I purged a small amount of air from the spigot at the bottom of the boiler then a larger amount from the valve on the baseboard itself on the second floor. My pressure has always been around 12 but now is all the way down to about 5 or 6 and the second floor still isn't working. I'm pretty sure I need to add water now but am not sure how. Thanks for your time.
 
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Old 02-07-13, 04:33 PM
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Old 02-07-13, 05:04 PM
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I'm pretty sure I need to add water now but am not sure how.
Find the automatic fill valve, between the city water supply and the boiler. Lift the lever on the fill valve while watching the boiler pressure gauge.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 04:40 AM
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I posted some pics on this thread. On my automatic fill valve there isn't a lever. There is something that resembles a set screw on top of it. Its similar to my purge valves on the baseboards themselves
 
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Old 02-08-13, 06:30 AM
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Scooter, do not adjust or turn the screw on top of the pressure regulator valve... at least not yet.

Is the valve to the right of that regulator OPEN ?
 
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Old 02-08-13, 11:12 AM
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The valve to the right is closed.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 12:05 PM
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Allow the boiler to cool to 100F or below before adding any large amounts of cold water to any boiler system!

Slowly open that valve and you should hear water entering the system and the pressure should begin to rise. If it continues to rise over 15 PSI close the valve again.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 12:12 PM
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When I open the valve to the right I can't hear any water entering and the pressure does not change
 
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Old 02-08-13, 03:44 PM
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Hmmmm... that's not right... or good...

Might mean that the regulator is toast... plugged up... or the valve is broken...

Look further down the pipe, are there any more valves on that feed pipe that we can't see in the picture?
 
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Old 02-08-13, 04:01 PM
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The pressure regulator valve likely has a strainer accessed from a large nut on the bottom of the valve. Isolate the regulator, remove the strainer, and see if it is plugged.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 04:14 PM
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Problem with that Doug is that it doesn't appear that there is a valve to the LEFT of the regulator... so he may not be able to isolate it.

The bottom plug on the right is labeled "STRAINER AND CHECK".

I'm sure there is either an O-ring, or a gasket of some sort under that plug. As old as that thing is, I would not trust that O-ring or gasket to be re-usable. I don't think I'd recommend messing with that during heating season. Take that plug out only to have a massive leak after back together? not good!

Scooter, is there a washing machine hookup nearby the boiler area? Someplace that you can hook a hose up to? A utility sink or anything?

There is an alternate way to feed water into the boiler, but I am EQUALLY FEARFUL that if you operate that boiler drain on the side of the boiler near the gas valve that it will not close tight when you are done...
 
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Old 02-08-13, 04:19 PM
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I'm not real keen on what appears to be possible long term 'rollout' as evidenced by the markings on the front above the access panel...

Are there Carbon Monoxide detectors installed throughout the home?
 
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Old 02-09-13, 07:41 AM
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I have a carbon monoxide detector but its upstairs. I will put it in the basement to see if it picks anything up. I was able to get water in the system by adjusting the valve on top of the regulator and then just shut off the valve before the regulator like it initially was. The pressure seems to be stable and the upper floor is finally heating. I hope its good to go. Thank you everyone for your help!!!!!!
 
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