Help! My pressure relief valve has a constant drip after spewing out...

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Old 02-07-13, 09:10 PM
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Help! My pressure relief valve has a constant drip after spewing out...

I'm a DIYer that recently soldered a busted water pipe in my crawl space so I felt confident I could replace a dripping stop and waste valve in my heating system. After replacing the stop and waste valve with the newer ball valve I noticed my thermostat took a long time to heat up the house and there was a constant gushing sound in the pipes. I figured I needed to do some bleeding at the valves, but after an hour, I still kept hearing the gushing sound, but the heat was on so I thought it was ok...Well after I came home today I found water gushing out of the pressure relief valve in back of boiler!! I turned off the power, I tuned off the water coming into the system as well as the valves on the supply and return pipes into the boiler, but the relief valve is still dripping!!!

Was changing the stop waste valve to the ball valve the reason for this? Or was it improper bleeding? Lastly, how can I correct this?

I was reading some other post about the expansion tank, but mine does NOT have a shut-off valve between the tank and the boiler. I do have that air relief thing in between the expansion tank and boiler.

Boiler is a Peerless WBV-03-WPC
Expansion Tank is a Watts Regulator ET-30

Help!!!
 
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Old 02-07-13, 09:21 PM
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That valve blows off with too much heat or pressure. Was the boiler up to heat when it was gushing out ?

Everything to do with the boiler is about heat and pressure.
Have you been checking the temperature and pressure ?

Changing the valve was probably not the direct cause as much as the refilling and bleeding.
You could have expansion tank issues or a sticking fill valve.

Some pictures of your system, well lit and showing the plumbing are very helpful in diagnosing problems.
 
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Old 02-07-13, 10:32 PM
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Old 02-07-13, 11:26 PM
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Maybe faulty Expansion Tank?

No pics yet bc it's late where I am...I'll put some up later this morning...

Thank you NJ for the links...I just tried the expansion tank test and drops of water came out but no air pressure at all...Did my attempt at bleeding the system cause this? Or maybe the replacing of the dripping stop waste valve?
 
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Old 02-08-13, 07:13 AM
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Did my attempt at bleeding the system cause this? Or maybe the replacing of the dripping stop waste valve?
No, it did not CAUSE this... something would have happened sooner or later if there is no air charge in the expansion tank.

You may not have done the system any 'favors' by draining all the water and introducing a lot of air into the system... which you will now have to work at removing the air...

A heating system must always be viewed as exactly that, a SYSTEM. I would venture to say that MOST systems have several 'deficiencies'. In many cases, even with these deficiencies, the system will continue to operate and heat the home.

Often happens though that when one of the deficiencies is corrected, another rears it's ugly head, as has happened in your case.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 08:35 AM
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Now to replacing the Expansion Tank??!!!

Thank you so much for the information!

Is it difficult to replace the expansion tank? What are the steps?

As stated earlier, my expansion tank does not have a shut-off valve between it and the boiler...only a automatic air vent.
 
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Old 02-08-13, 05:06 PM
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It's not terribly difficult, but sometimes they are stuck pretty tight to the piping and hard to get loose. One poster recently had to have a plumber come in and the guy had to SAW it off with electric hacksaw and then use a monster wrench to get the piece out of the pipe... but that's an EXTREME case. MOST of them come off pretty easily.

Here's the thing though... when removing it, you must BE PREPARED for a HEAVY WEIGHT! It will likely be almost FULL of water, maybe 4 gallons... it will weigh about 40 pounds. If you aren't ready for it, you can do some serious damage to equipment it falls on, including BODY PARTS! so BE CAREFUL! BE PREPARED!

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, I want to see PICTURES! so that we can properly instruct you!
 
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Old 02-08-13, 07:54 PM
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Your pressure might be increasing too much because of the boiler temperature. You may not have circulation through the piping because of air. If thats the case, you may have damaged the tank so replacement is necessary.
 
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Old 02-09-13, 07:29 AM
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Ok, without further adu, here are some pics of what I'm working with..

Thanks again for any and all help on how to take off and install a new expansion tank...

I've been reading through numerous plumbing/heating forums and have taken the liberty of going to home depot and buying a new watts ETX-30 expansion tank, pro dope, teflon tape and a bike pump with gauge..so I hope I have at least the supplies I need..

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Last edited by NJT; 02-09-13 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 02-09-13, 07:34 AM
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Of note, the gauge reading with the boiler on and running has been a constant 20 psi or rifight at that red arrow...Currently the boiler is off so its been at a constant 10-12 psi..

I also have two taco zone valves, but they are not attached to the system..They were that way since I bought the place..Maybe another project for another day..
 
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Old 02-09-13, 02:36 PM
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You aren't running the system with these valves shut, are you?



the one in the middle, on the vertical pipe:
 
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Old 02-09-13, 02:38 PM
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but they are not attached to the system..They were that way since I bought the place..
You mean they aren't WIRED right? because they certainly are attached!

You've got them locked in the manual OPEN position then...
 
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Old 02-09-13, 02:40 PM
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Temperature gauge broken much?

 
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Old 02-09-13, 02:48 PM
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taken the liberty of going to home depot and buying a new watts ETX-30 expansion tank, pro dope, teflon tape and a bike pump with gauge..so I hope I have at least the supplies I need..
Sounds like it.

Do NOT go crazy with the teflon tape! TWO WRAPS is ENOUGH!

...and do NOT put any on the first two threads from the end, leave those first two threads nekkid.

I guess you aren't going to add the optional valves then? These REALLY make life a lot easier when it comes time to check or charge the air, or change the tank in the future.



Of note, the gauge reading with the boiler on and running has been a constant 20 psi or rifight at that red arrow...Currently the boiler is off so its been at a constant 10-12 psi..
Then why was the relief valve spewing? There had to be 30 PSI in the system for that to happen.

So what do you need to know about changing the tank then? How to?
 
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