Issues with my Honeywell 8182D aquastat

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-13-13, 10:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Issues with my Honeywell 8182D aquastat

I have an old American standard furnace that has been fairly reliable for a long time. But ober the last few years I seem to be having issues with the aquastat on it. I have the Honeywell 8182D and they seem to go bad and not work after a year or few months. I learned on here that replacing the aquastat isnt all that hard but now tonight after i cleaned my electrodes and made the adjustments to them it was running well for about 2 hours now the red reset button is kicked. I pressed the reset and the fan and the burner didn't kick on and after a few seconds the rest button popped out again. Is there something I may have done wrong on the electrodes that wont let the burner and fan even turn on. I do have a another aquastat to put on but didnt want to remove it if its not the problem. Sorry for the long post just wanted to try and be as detailed as I could so I can hopefully solve this problem. I also thought it could be an electrical issue since my aquastats keep going bad over time. I hope someone on here can help these NJ winters are costing my lots off $$$$ in electric heaters.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-14-13, 07:52 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
I pressed the reset and the fan and the burner didn't kick on and after a few seconds the reset button popped out again. Is there something I may have done wrong on the electrodes that wont let the burner and fan even turn on.
No... electrode adjustment shouldn't have any effect on the motor running... unless there is a loose wire connection that was disturbed while performing the work.

What symptoms are showing up when the aquastats 'go bad' ?

The reset button popping should only mean that the burner did not light in time... and that may not be a problem with the aquastat itself, but rather the burner.

But, it COULD be a problem with the aquastat.

For example, if the relay that provides power to the B1 terminal does not provide the power, the burner motor will not run. If the burner motor does not run, of course the reset will trip.

You would need to determine if the problem is the burner motor or wiring in the burner, OR if the problem is in the aquastat.

If you have a multimeter and know how to use it and have the proper skill set for working with LIVE 120VAC power circuits, you can measure the voltage between B1 and B2 .

When there is a heat call and the boiler temperature is below the high limit setting, you should have 120 VAC power at B1 and B2.

If you do NOT, suspect the relay in the aquastat.

If you DO have power there and the burner still does not run, suspect the wiring to and in the burner, OR quite possibly a bad motor.

Is the motor the original one to the burner?
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-13, 04:14 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you so much Trooper, used a multimeter and checked B1 & B2 and didnt see anything, so naturally I figured wasn't testing it right :-) so I just went and switched out the aquastat and put the old one back on that I new was still good and sure enough it fired right up. Before I closed everything up I checked B1 & B2 again and got the 120VAC I should. So thank you for your help and also teaching me how to trouble shoot this problem. My only other question is what would make the aquastat go bad. I have seen a few post on here about bad solder joints and how guys have taken them apart and resolder them to work. I'm not sure if this is my problem but I have 3 aquastats in my basement that I would love to try and fix or at least get an understanding why they go bad. Thanks again for your help and I have been coming to this forum for quite a while now and got great information just from questions already answered on here. But this time I figured it was time I asked the question and it paid off. Thanks Trooper
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-13, 05:02 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Very cool Steve, glad it worked out for ya, and you're quite welcome!

I've seen the quality of soldering on the Honeywell stuff go WAY down in the past couple years.

Since you have some dead horses laying around, go ahead and do an autopsy.

Look at one of your old aquastats... see those metal tabs that are bent in from the chassis holding the circuit board in place? Bend them out and carefully (so as not to 'kink' the thin capillary tube for the temperature sensing bulb. If you kink that tube, it's toast, can't be fixed.) slide the circuit board out of the chassis.

Go to Google and search for "cold solder joint" ... then click on " IMAGES " in the top bar.

You will get THOUSANDS of pictures of what a bad solder joint might look like.

With a BRIGHT light and a MAGNIFIER, carefully inspect every solder joint for something that looks like what you see in the Google search.

Pay attention to the terminals on the two relays on the board.

Do you own and know how to use a solder iron? Or maybe have a friend who does? You might beg a local repair shop to re-solder the connections if all else fails. They shouldn't charge you more than a couple bucks to do so.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: