Weil McLain Boiler not firing model QB-180

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-24-13, 06:04 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Weil McLain Boiler not firing model QB-180

Just a week ago I noticed it fire for maybe 20 sec. and shut off which I thought was odd. Yesterday my wife went to do the dishes and there was no hot water. I took a look and cant figure what is wrong. The reset button isn't working....it doesn't even try to fire. After searching all over the net I thinking it might be the intermittent ignition?? Any help guys? When I turn the main power on I hear the relay working on the boiler but thats it. Thanks for any help, Mike
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-24-13, 08:38 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
There should be a reset button on the motor itself... maybe a problem there?

If the ignition were the problem, the motor would still start.

Do you have power getting to the burner itself?
 
  #3  
Old 02-24-13, 03:11 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I pushed both reset buttons and still nothing. The motor or ignition isn't working. Does fuel need to be in the pump for the motor to start? The relay in the pic is working so i'm guessing the motor is getting power.

I'm in a pinch so if anyone rather call me my # is ********** Thanks!!!
 
Attached Images  

Last edited by NJT; 02-24-13 at 04:01 PM. Reason: sorry, personal info not allowed
  #4  
Old 02-24-13, 04:03 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
Mike, sorry I had to remove your ph # ... forum rulz ya know... please read them.

Does fuel need to be in the pump for the motor to start?
No.

The relay in the pic is working so i'm guessing the motor is getting power.
No guessing allowed.

Do you own and know how to use a multimeter?
 
  #5  
Old 02-24-13, 04:15 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi Trooper, sorry about the #, didn't read the rules.

I do have a multimeter.......I'm now thinking it might be the relay in the pic. It has 120v going in but none going to the motor or circulator. What do you think?
 
  #6  
Old 02-24-13, 04:49 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
I'm betting that you have no voltage at B1 and B2 ... and if the pump isn't running, you won't see any power on C1 and C2 either.

Being a Weil-Mclain, I think that you have the -1157 variety of that control... that number really doesn't mean anything, so you can use this one:

L8148A1017 - Honeywell L8148A1017 - High Limit Horizontal Mount Aquastat Relay, 8F differential

It says 'horizontal mounting', but it will work vertically as well. If you look at the Q&A on the website, they say that the one below is the replacement for the 1157, and it is, but the 1017 will work too even though they don't say so. Patriot Supply website lists the 1017 as a replacement for the 1157 but is a little more money...

Patriot Supply - L8148A1017

You might also consider the electronic version:

L7224U1002 - Honeywell L7224U1002 - 120 Vac Oil Electronic Aquastat

which is a 'functional' replacement. You might have to lengthen a wire or two ...
 
  #7  
Old 02-25-13, 03:04 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I ended up going to a local plumbing supply store and getting that relay.........that did the trick! Thanks so much NJ Tropper for the help! One last question, any idea what to set the temp. at? I put it at 180 to be safe....
 
  #8  
Old 02-25-13, 03:22 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
Hope they didn't 'see you coming' !

Yes, 180 is a good high limit setting.

Now that you've got the old one out, slide that board out and take a look... even take a clear pic and post it if you would. I like 'evidence'!

Good Luck!
 
  #9  
Old 02-26-13, 03:46 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
They didn't get me too bad. I paid $135 + tax.........told them I could get it elsewhere for $120 delivered. Figured i'm helping a local business and making the wife happy.

I'll take a nice pic for you today and post it up.
 
  #10  
Old 02-26-13, 08:27 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What do you think caused this?
 
Attached Images  
  #11  
Old 02-26-13, 09:33 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
Is that copper track that runs between the two slots burned through? If so, that's why you had no power to the circ or the burner...

But, good question... what caused an electrical arc to jump across that slot?

Can your camera do 'macro focus' ? Can you zoom in on just that area? I would like to see in particular those two solder connections directly to the left of the slot.

The forum will automatically resize the photos that you upload, so I may not be able to see it in the detail I'm looking for, but it appears that one of the solder connections may have been bad before this arc occurred.

For voltage to jump across that gap and arc between those points would mean that the voltage would have had to go extremely high... and you have said nothing about damage to any of your other appliances... so I think we can rule that out.

One thing that can cause NORMAL voltage to jump longer distances is a 'conductive plasma' environment. If for example that there is a bad solder connection there... and it 'arced' as the pump or burner came on, and VAPORISED a tiny bit of the copper, that 'arc cloud' that would be formed would be electrically conductive. That track that goes down the middle between the slots is the 120VAC NEUTRAL path, and the connections on each side are the 120VAC HOT.

So... an arc could have spread from a small bad solder joint... and across from the HOT to the NEUTRAL...

Maybe...

By the way... I see this often here at the 'day job'...
 
  #12  
Old 02-27-13, 03:50 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
NJ Trooper, I resized a pic I took. Hope this will work. Another question, on the relay, is that a "shield" that is to the left of the copper winding at the very top in the center. I noticed that is was very close to the windings.......even on the new one. I was doing some testing yesterday and noticed a very slight vibration on the whole relay when not on having my hand on the box. I tweeked that plate just a hair to the left and it stopped! What do you think? Thanks, Mikenj
 
Attached Images  
  #13  
Old 02-27-13, 06:26 AM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 3 Votes on 2 Posts
Thanks Mike,

From what I can see in the photo it does appear that the leads coming through the board to the left side of the 'creepage gap' may in fact have had cracked solder connections prior to the arc 'event'.

The upper one in the photo appears to have burned all the way through the neutral track that runs between the gaps and, as mentioned, this is the reason there was no power getting to the pump or burner.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: