Burnham Series 2... Couple of problems

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Old 04-24-13, 05:22 PM
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Question Burnham Series 2... Couple of problems

I think I may be replacing a couple of items after this is all said and done but here goes...

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After all your advice last Nov., my family had a very warm winter!!! Thanks again!... The other day we got 1" of snow and I just assumed my boiler would do what it was supposed to and heat the house as long as I turned up the t-stats. As you may remember, last Nov. I replaced the aquastat, Therm/pressure gauge and a circ pump(backwards the first time around) and all was working great for the last 5 months then yesterday it just wouldn't keep up the temp.

I got it to start up(fire) after turning off the power and back on... Then I noticed that there was 0psi(zero) for boiler pressure... Mind you that all the zones were open and the tstat lights on the Taco 3-zone were all on, circ pump running fine... Once it started going up to the preset 180F, there was only 10psi untill it hit 165F and then it jumped to 25psi within 50 seconds but did shut off around 175F and the pressure dropped to 0psi before it even cooled to 170F(odd, I thought)... Figured I would give it a chance but 2 hours later it started getting colder in the house. Temp on boiler was now 70F and 0psi... I checked the vent damper to see if it was closed and triggered the Blocked Vent Switch... it was open but the switch had been tripped because when I reset it, powered off and back on, igniter did its job and started up perfectly. I watched it for a few cycles and everything worked fine(damper opened and closed,igniter fired up)... Then it happened again! The blocked vent switch(BVS) was tripped and the damper was open but no fire. So I switched my Effikal RVGP-KS6-BKF to "Hold open damper" and it did so, but, the BVS was tripped again... pushed and it fired up after a power cycle... The BVS tripped again and the damper was open... Reset the BVS, set the damper to auto again, power cycled and it worked great for 3 cycles and then the damper didn't close when it shut down and it wouldn't start because the BVS was tripped again.

Checked the tank as directed and the pressure was 14psi but there was a little bit of water on the tire gauge... So, I assume that I need a new tank but I'm pretty confused about why it keeps tripping the blocked vent switch when the damper is clearly open. Thinking I need a new damper too. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 04-25-13, 04:30 AM
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With out sounding to cynical... what does BVS stand for.
Your Blocked Vent Switch is likely doing it's job and saving your life.
Check your chimney before you fire your boiler again.
You may have had a crittter move in during the spring thaw.
If your chimney is clear, then you have some negative pressure problems in the house.
Open a window by the boiler and see if it trips the switch again.
BUT CHECK THE CHIMNEY FIRST.
Its rare to have a intermittented switch, they either fail and are not resettable or they trip at the right point.
 
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Old 04-25-13, 05:26 AM
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Replace that tank right away too. Both of these problems are important to fix before running your system again. You don't want to run your system with a bad tank like that. The system will over pressure and dump water out of your pressure relief valve.

While you are at it and if you are able to, you should add some things between the expansion tank and the system. Put a valve between the expansion tank and the system. Then put a T between the valve and tank. You can run a nipple out past the edge of the tank with a hose bib on the end. This will allow for easier checking of the pressure in the future. Turn off the valve, then open the hose bib to drain off the pressure. You can add a pressure gauge in there too, but if you just drain it all out, you will be fine.
 
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Old 04-25-13, 02:48 PM
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triggered the Blocked Vent Switch...
First, what TO said... this is DANGEROUS! ESPECIALLY since you also seem to have a water heater venting into the same chimney. You need to follow his instructions. Check for blockage in the chimney and that it's not a 'negative pressure' situation.

If you have an incense stick, cigarette, cigar, etc, while the boiler is running, there must be NO backdrafting... smoke MUST go up inside the hood and out.

Make sure that you have FUNCTIONAL CO alarms around the home, ones that will wake you from a drunken stupor.

I noticed that there was 0psi(zero) for boiler pressure...
Next problem is this. You don't have enough pressure in your system.



The valve to the right of the pressure reducing valve is CLOSED, which is OK... AS LONG AS you don't have any leaks in the system and you are in the habit of regularly checking the system pressure.

You need to cool the boiler to 100F or less, and open that valve to bring the boiler pressure to 12 PSI when the boiler is cold.

Checked the tank as directed and the pressure was 14psi
As directed where? What was the pressure in the boiler when you checked the tank?

Did you read this? (the optional components mentioned by Droo are shown in this thread)

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html

and this?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html

Here's another thing you need to attend to:



That air vent is leaking... it should be replaced.

You could do this at the same time you change the tank... I suspect you will be doing so.
 
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Old 04-25-13, 03:02 PM
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Thanks for the responses!! Just got called out on a job... won't be back for a few days so I will leave it off until I get back. I'll update you then. Thanks again!

BVS is "lazy type" for Blocked Vent Switch.
 
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Old 04-25-13, 03:14 PM
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The replacement air vents for the Vortech are rather expensive. You can adapt that thing so as to use the cheap 'off the shelf' vents with 1/8" thread on the bottom.

I believe the Vortech has a 3/4" thread down inside.

If you pick up a 4" long 3/4" threaded nipple, and a reducing coupling to 1/8", you can thread the nipple and coupling into the Vortech and screw the MUCH cheaper (i.e. Maid-O-Mist #67) on top.

BLN-0140 - Boshart BLN-0140 - 1/8" x 4" Black Nipple

FBCO3/4X1/8 - Ward FBCO3/4X1/8 - 3/4" x 1/8" Black Coupling

You could also use brass if you want, but the black fittings are fine.
 
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Old 04-25-13, 07:27 PM
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By reducing the vent size down to 1/8" you greatly reduce the venting ability of the vortex. You will go from a great air eliminator to equal to or less than a standard air separator.

The us boiler BVS is resettable but should not trip unless it gets weak. As TO stated a negative indoor pressure or lack of combustion air.
 

Last edited by NJT; 04-26-13 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 04-26-13, 05:49 AM
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I believe that the smaller inlet of the air vent would be compensated for by the fact that there will be a 4" long nipple below it, allowing the nipple to collect the air from the Vortech.
 
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