B & G series100 circulating pump

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  #1  
Old 05-12-13, 05:52 PM
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B & G series100 circulating pump

My circulating pump is leaking. The lubricating port is filling up with water and dripping at the rate of about 1pt /24hrs. The pump so far is working fine, no noise, no problem. What can it be? A gasket?
Thanks
Frank
 
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  #2  
Old 05-12-13, 06:26 PM
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B&G sells rebuild kits, if you are up to it. Otherwise, replace it with a Taco 007.
 
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Old 05-12-13, 06:44 PM
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I agree with Gil...

You probably have a leak at the impeller shaft seal.

How mechanically inclined are you? It's not difficult, but unless you have done things like rebuilding mechanical stuff before, might be 'daunting'.

I wouldn't recommend stopping at the seals. If you are taking it apart, might as well rebuild the whole thing... seals, coupler, motor mounts... and when you get through buying all the parts, and spending the time, you could have replaced it with a 007 and been done... probably cheaper:

007 pump at PexSupply.com

Post #15,000 ! Time to retire...
 
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Old 05-12-13, 07:03 PM
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Someone previously posted a link to a youtube video that might help:

Bell & Gossett Series 100 Repair Video (remastered) - YouTube
 
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Old 05-13-13, 06:14 AM
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That vid doesn't show the actual rebuild of the bearing assembly... I though I saw one from State that did show the BA being rebuilt but don't find it now.

The bearing assembly complete is available from PEX Supply for about $80 ... if you wanted to go that way, but you should still probably replace the coupler and motor mounts.

007 is better choice.
 
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Old 05-13-13, 07:37 AM
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That vid doesn't show the actual rebuild of the bearing assembly... I though I saw one from State that did show the BA being rebuilt but don't find it now.
Here's a video that gets a little more into the rebuild; it's not a State production, but it might be the one you are thinking about:

Bell and gussett boiler circ pump operation. - YouTube

007 is better choice
I definitely agree in cases where a 007 can be swapped right in. But from what I've read and seen, most of the time a 007 pump body is not the same size as the B&G 100 or Taco 110 series pump body, and so it's not a direct swap, but instead requires some re-piping. That takes the complexity of the repair to another level. I have to think many DIYers would be wary of that...
 
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Old 05-13-13, 08:46 AM
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Thanks. I agree. Will see if the space is a direct fit as Rockledge mentioned. If not it may better less troublesome to replace with a new B & G
 
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Old 05-13-13, 04:55 PM
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Frank, if it's a series 100, the flange to flange should be 6-3/8" which is the same as the spec for the 007.
 
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Old 05-14-13, 04:56 PM
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That's what I think, as well. There should be no necessity to re-pipe. Get the correct sized flanges and orient the 007 as specified: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1346..._PROD_FILE.pdf
 
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Old 05-14-13, 05:34 PM
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It says 6-3/8" HERE too so you guys are right on regarding the B&G.

And it looks like the Taco 110 pumps are close enough (6-5/16") to give it a try, as well. In fact, it's only the Taco 111, 113 and 120 where the size differences aren't close.
 
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Old 05-15-13, 06:46 AM
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it looks like the Taco 110 pumps are close enough (6-5/16")
Personally, I think buying a new 3-piece, dry-rotor pump is a step backwards in time. Better to install a wet-rotor, canned motor pump - only one moving part (the rotor).

The Taco 110 sells for $262 (at Pexsupply) and the 007 costs $75.
 
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Old 05-15-13, 08:40 AM
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That's what I meant, actually - it's worth a try to replace the Taco 110 with a Taco 007, despite the 1/16' difference in pump body length.

What confused me is, I'd never seen a 110 model Taco pump body before. My home previously had a Taco 111 (8-3/4" long), and the DHW pump for the Everhot tank at the Apt. building also uses a Taco 111. Problem is, without really ever confirming anything, I just assumed (mistakenly) that these were 110s.

But I'm glad to have it correct in my head now. Thanks guys!
 
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Old 05-17-13, 09:00 AM
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Happy to report that the 007 fits perfectly. However the pressure gauge reads 30psi cold. When I open the PRV to let in more cold water in, the pressure dropped a little, then went back to 30 and water came out from the relief valve.
Any suggestions?
Frank
 
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Old 05-17-13, 10:20 AM
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For starters, read both of these sticky posts:

You may not have the type of expansion tank that is talked about in this first one, but the principle is the same. Let us know what type you have.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html


http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html
 
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Old 05-17-13, 10:27 AM
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Frank, when you said "PRV" in your above post, did you mean "PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE" , in other words, the valve on the line between your domestic supply and the boiler? The valve that is supposed to regulate at about 12 PSI ?

Maybe that's not working properly either.

Can you take some pics to make sure we're all talking about the same thing?
 
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Old 05-17-13, 02:40 PM
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It is the pressure reducing valve and it was replaced a month ago. The pressure relief valve was also replaced a month ago. Will try to get some pictures
 
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Old 05-17-13, 05:32 PM
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If the pressure reducing valve is in working condition, there should be no reason for the pressure to go up to 30 PSI.

When I open the PRV to let in more cold water in, the pressure dropped a little, then went back to 30
This makes no sense at all! First, if the pressure were at 30, why would you 'open' the reducing valve to let more water in? By 'open' do you mean that you moved the 'fast fill' lever?

Why would the pressure DROP when you opened it?

I vewy confuzed!
 
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Old 05-17-13, 05:51 PM
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Open means to move the lever so it is vertical and fresh water coming in.
I am not sure if the pressure actually dropped when I moved the lever because it happened so fast. The PRV, pressure relief valve and expansion tanks were all replaced a month ago. The pressure was 25psi with the B & G series 100 pump. I simply replaced it with a taco 007.
I got pictures but don't know how to put them in here. Can you help?

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Last edited by ffhon2000; 05-17-13 at 06:26 PM.
  #20  
Old 05-19-13, 08:26 AM
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Hi,
I replaced the PRV but pressure is still 30psi and water gushing from the air vents. Replaced the two air vents, it seems the boiler is running normal and providing hot water, however the pressure is still between 25 to 30 psi
BTW I have a Weil Mclain about 25 yrs old, it provides hot water which is stored in a tank made by Amtrol. I have replaced the Amtrol tank 3 X in the last 5 yrs. This system has never provided hot water the way it is supposed to. We run out of hot water once the tank is used up.
Any suggestion as to the reason?
Frank
 
  #21  
Old 05-19-13, 11:12 AM
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Maybe I missed something, but have you tried draining some of the water out of the boiler to reduce the pressure down to the recommended 12-15psi (cold)?

What keeps going wrong with the Amtrol hot water tanks? Leaks?

It would really help if you could post several more pictures of the boiler itself, the Amtrol tank, the piping between the two units, and the electronic controls.
 
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