Watts s1156F pressure reducing valve

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Old 06-24-13, 01:08 PM
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Watts s1156F pressure reducing valve

I finally got around and replaced my faulty pressure reducing valve (thread here).

It turned out easier than I thought and I didnít even lose much water . Since I had hydro-solv 9100 cleaner in the system it didnít really matter anyway since I had to flush it out.

I drop the pressure to 0psi and check the expansion tank. It was dry, but had no pressure. I pumped it to 16psi and it seemed that it was holding the pressure. Not sure why I charged it up to 16psi, instead of preset 12psi. The expansion function will be a limited a bit, but I think it should be ok. Please correct me if Iím wrong.

I changed the pressure reducing valve, flushed the cleaner, pumped the conditioner, purged as much air as I could and pressurized the system. It settled at 20 psi (19 psi on one gauge and 21 psi on another), which seems a bit high. The instructions say that s1156F is preset at 15psi. Since I plan on running the system with intake valve closed, it shouldnít really matter and I can lower the pressure to 15-16psi before use. But I was wondering if itís normal for the valve to be that much off.

I ran the recirc for about 5 hours. There were a lot of running water sounds first, but that quickly went away. It was a cold run, the boiler was off. At this point should I do anything else or is it ready to be fired up in the fall? Should I have run the recirc longer? Should I have run it hot?
 
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Old 06-24-13, 03:59 PM
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...the expansion tank. It was dry, but had no pressure. I pumped it to 16psi ...but I think it should be ok. Please correct me if Iím wrong.
It will _probably_ be OK. Yes, you are limiting the 'acceptance' volume by running more pressure. Wrong? I guess 'by the book' it is, but if it works OK then I guess leave it.

The instructions say that s1156F is preset at 15psi. ... I was wondering if itís normal for the valve to be that much off.
Seems like a pretty big diff from the preset. What does the actual metal tag on the valve say?

It was a cold run, the boiler was off. At this point should I do anything else or is it ready to be fired up in the fall? Should I have run the recirc longer? Should I have run it hot?
Since you didn't heat the water, all the air that was in the water is still in the water. That's gonna corrode stuff over the summer. I know it's hot as heck now, but really when you refill the system you should get it good and hot at least once... and then vent as much of that air as you can.
 
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Old 06-25-13, 05:54 PM
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Yes, you are limiting the 'acceptance' volume by running more pressure. Wrong? I guess 'by the book' it is, but if it works OK then I guess leave it.
it looks like instructions say to set it to the minimum pressure in the system and since i should be running at about 16psi it should be ok. what makes me wonder though is the fact that expansion tank had zero psi and the system acted ok. i had my pressure rise from 16 psi to about 20 psi when heated. i would think that without a properly working tank it would blow the PRV. maybe even with zero psi an expansion tank diaphragm still has expanding capacity?

Seems like a pretty big diff from the preset. What does the actual metal tag on the valve say?
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Since you didn't heat the water, all the air that was in the water is still in the water. That's gonna corrode stuff over the summer. I know it's hot as heck now, but really when you refill the system you should get it good and hot at least once... and then vent as much of that air as you can.
i'll try to find a cold saturday/sunday morning and do it. but it might take a week or so. i also wanna see how expansion tank would work for me.

thanks for you help, NJ Trooper.
 
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