Indirect superstore tank not turning on circulator

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Old 09-01-13, 07:05 AM
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Indirect superstore tank not turning on circulator

Hi,
Woke up this morning to luke warm water. Thought maybe the oil fired boiler tripped the reset, but that wasn't the case. The 4 heating zones work fine. Turn up the thermostat, boiler fires up, circulator runs etc. The water tank however is not working properly. The zone valve for it is open, but it will not trigger the circulator pump. There are only 2 wires running from the tank , both are connected and not broken. I assume one is for the zone valve and the other the circulator?? Is there a way I can test the control unit on the tank with a multimeter? If this control is bad, are they readily available at home depot etc? Just my luck this happens on a holiday weekend!! My workaround is to turn the heat up in one zone and that will circulate water thru the hot water tank because the zone valve is open....just hate to waste oil like that. Thanks for any input. Ken
 
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Old 09-01-13, 08:33 AM
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Hi Ken, what it sounds like you are describing may be a bad 'endswitch' in the zone valve for the indirect.

The zone valve for it is open, but it will not trigger the circulator pump. There are only 2 wires running from the tank , both are connected and not broken. I assume one is for the zone valve and the other the circulator??
If the zone valve is open, it probably means that the control on the water heater is doing it's job.

What is the make/model of the zone valves?

Make and model of both the boiler and the indirect?

If they are Honeywell (very common), they are probably the 8043 series. Some have 2 yellow and 2 red wires coming out ( the "E" series ) and some have terminal blocks on the side of the power head (the "F" series).

Still presuming that you have 8043's, the two yellow wires operate the MOTOR in the valve that actually opens the valve. One of these yellow wires should go to one of the wires from the indirect, the other yellow wire should go to a 24VAC transformer. One of the transformer wires should go to the other yellow wire on the valve.

The two RED wires are your 'endswitch'. When the valve is fully open this endswitch CLOSES and signals the boiler to fire and the circulator to run.

I'll continue with multimeter instructions for troubleshooting once you confirm that you do have Honeywell valves. Other valves are similar, but I need to know exactly which ones you have in order to provide proper info.
 
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Old 09-01-13, 02:49 PM
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Thanks so much for the reply. I have Honeywell zone valves with 2 red wires and 2 yellow wires like you describe. I am going to head down now and swap out the guts from one of the heating zone valves with the indirect water heater zone valve, and I'll see if that solves my problem.
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:15 PM
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You could just jumper out the end-switch connections and see if the circulator starts and the boiler fires.
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:18 PM
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Hang on a sec...

What do you mean "the guts" ?

You don't want to take the power head apart in anyway. You can swap the entire power head much more easily.

How old are the zone valves? If there are FOUR screws holding the power head to the valve, do NOT remove the power head without draining the system.

If there are TWO screws and two 'locating pins', the valves are the newer variety and the power head can be removed without draining the system.

But, I thought you wanted to do some diagnostic with the meter?

To me, that's much easier.

Make and model of both the boiler and the indirect?
Please answer my other question.
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:21 PM
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Bingo, Now the indirect water heater is functioning properly. Just need to replace the guts from the heating zone I stole them from. Any idea where can I buy just the motor etc and not the whole zone valve? Thanks again for the help
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:27 PM
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Ken, we need to get our terminology straight.

When you say 'the motor', are you actually talking about the electric motor INSIDE the zone valve power head, or are you calling the entire power head 'box' "the motor" ?

Because you CAN just replace the 'motor', but that is not likely your problem.

This is the power head:


image courtesy pexsupply.com

40003916-026 - Honeywell 40003916-026 - Replacement Head for V8043E Zone Valves

and this is the 'motor', which is inside the power head, but not likely your problem because you said that the valve was opening:


image courtesy pexsupply.com
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:34 PM
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The meter was only to determine if it was the aquastat on the indirect heater or the zone valve, I wasn't sure how to troubleshoot that. I only have 2 bolts securing the head, so I swapped it with another zone. Sorry "guts" wasn't very descriptive. So now I just need to replace the head unit for a heating zone that I won't need for another month or so. Any suggestions where to buy that?
 
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Old 09-01-13, 03:39 PM
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I followed your link for the replacement head unit.....thanks, I'll buy it from them.
 
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