Honeywell Zone Valve 8043E keeps failing

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Old 10-13-13, 06:32 AM
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Honeywell Zone Valve 8043E keeps failing

I have four zones, 3 for heat and 1 for hot water. They use Honeywell 8043E motorized zone valves.

The 8043E zone valve for my hot water fails every 6 months or so. The issue is when the hot water tank calls for heat the motor turns but not enough for the brass lever to contact the switch to trigger the circulator and ignite the boiler. It's may be a 1/16" or less from the switch. The motor is trying to turn as it's very hot. I can make the 8043E work by taking a screw driver and helping the brass lever to make contact. This will last for about 12 hours. Overnight the motor turns back a little requiring a repeat of the screwdriver procedure.

Any thoughts as to what's going on? Why do the valves keep failing? Is there a problem with the underlying physical valve in the pipe creating too much resistance for the motor to overcome?
 
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Old 10-13-13, 06:54 AM
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Have you been changing the head only or the whole body? Often the internals of the body get corroded and cause the issues you are experiencing.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 07:00 AM
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I've only replaced the head i.e. 8043E motorized valve. Everything I've read seems to suggests the physical valve rarely fails since there's not much inside to go wrong. What causes the valve to corrode?
 
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Old 10-13-13, 07:04 AM
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What causes the valve to corrode?
Just deposits and such keep the ball from opening all the way to activate the end switch.

I often slide the lever as fast as I can to open the valve... Let the spring bring it back closed then open it fast again. Do this several times if you know what I mean...
 
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Old 10-13-13, 07:13 AM
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i'll have deenergize it ie disconnect one of the yellow wires, as the lever is floppy now. i'm guessing this maneuver is to dislodge any deposits.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 09:33 AM
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Remove the power head and make sure that the valve operator moves easily.

I'm not convinced that deposits are the trouble... I think it's just a quality issue with the valves and the manufacturing tolerances. I would investigate a way to perhaps VERY CAREFULLY bend something inside the head to give a more positive movement of the cam to the switch.

The motors do run hot. They are not designed for continuous duty. When the zone calls for heat, and the endswitch fails to 'make', the zone is never satisfied because it calls and calls and never gets heat. It may sit there open with the motor energized for hours... days... weeks... or more, before it is noticed and looked at. Eventually the motor 'burns out'.

So, what started with an endswitch problem turns into an endswitch AND motor problem.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 09:56 AM
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I don't know that the internal design is any better, but there is a "5000" series power head that is backward compatible to the "1000" series head. It may be worth a try...

The 5000 series head is designed to be a 'screwless' mount on the 5000 series body, but in their finite wisdom Honeywell has provided the proper screw holes so that one can mount the 5000 head on the older valves using the screws instead of the 'spring clip'.

http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell...er/68-3092.pdf

"E" model with leadwires:

40003916-526 - Honeywell 40003916-526 - Powerhead for V8043E 5000 Series Zone Valve

"F" model with terminal screws:

40003916-548 - Honeywell 40003916-548 - Replacement Head w/ End Switch for V8043F "5000" Series
 
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Old 10-13-13, 11:14 AM
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TrooperNj im going to checkout both ideas, bending and the 5000 series.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 03:06 PM
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After reading about your problem I would like to take a moment to interject a thought also. You have two very knowledgable people helping you with two possible solutions but what I am seeing is out of the four zone valves you have it is only the hot water one that's continuously failing. As Trooper said it could be a quality issue once maybe twice but looking at the bigger picture it's always the same valve. If you're changing valves twice a year only on that one zone and all the rest are the same and holding up well I would look for a common denominator and in this case seems to be the valve body as lawrosa suggested. A suggestion might be the next time the head goes take one off the other working zone that's been fine and if it suddenly fails you may have found your problem.
 
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Old 10-13-13, 03:44 PM
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That's a good point Spott... I should have elaborated a bit more when I said:

"Remove the power head and make sure that the valve operator moves easily."

Because as Mike also alluded the problem MAY BE in the body.

So do make sure that the operator on the valve body, the 'double-D shaft' moves freely. There should be very little resistance to that thing turning. If unsure, pop the head off another valve and compare how easily it moves compared to another.

Maybe because this one is on the water heater zone and works all year long... and the others only during the heating season, there could be more wear on the shaft itself causing it to go 'lopsided' and wedge itself in the bore.

Lastly... make sure that when you are replacing the zone heads that you are following directions and locking the manual lever into the tab before installing onto the valve. I forget exactly why this has to be, but something nagging at my memory that it might cause the geartrain to 'skip a tooth' or two... in which case maybe that cam isn't moving as far as it should...
 
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Old 10-13-13, 05:37 PM
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I have replaced enough to know its often the issue. Especially with antifreeze....


Then the motors burn out over time. Plus its probably stuck open some so when there is a heat call it feeds to the indirect....

Just my thoughts is all. Heck I am not there so I could be wrong...


 
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Old 11-26-13, 02:40 PM
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I had the same problem on my zone valve as described earlier. The drive motor did not function (valve1) so I replaced the drive motor. The valve would open but hot water would only flow when another zone valve activated the furnace, which indicated to me the "end switch" on (valve1) was not functioning. I was able to observe the push button on this switch, saw that the drive motor was pushing the bracket firmly onto the end switch push button, but the furnace would not fire. I jiggled the wires to the end switch and that did it! Apparently the wire is loose in the switch. For now, rather than replace the whole assembly, I pushed the wire in until the furnace continued to run, replaced the protective shield on the assembly and hope for the best. If/when it fails again, I'll know exactly what I need to do.
 
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