Wiring a Honeywell L6006C

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Old 10-26-13, 10:23 AM
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Lightbulb Wiring a Honeywell L6006C

Hi everyone...

Im trying to get my heat started in my addition.

In the addition I have A Heil air handler with an Aqua coil attached to it.

I have a NG Navien combination boiler with a taco box in the basement that controls both zone circulators.

I have an 18-3 wire running from the basement up to the T stat.
from the T stat i have an 18-5 wire.

I installed the Aquastat onto the "inlet" side of the water supply conduit going into the aquacoil.

what I am trying to do is... have the T stat control the circulator ( which i have managed to do )

I am now trying to get the fan to come on once the water temperature reaches (140*?)

So... do I need to run 120v to the aquastat "R" (line) and white to the "W"?

It looks like the leads going to the fan are Yellow and black..

which do i break? what wires go where help please ..

I can post pictures if needed
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:54 AM
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Pictures always helpful...

Can you find and post links to the manuals for the air handler and the Navien on the web for our reference?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:24 PM
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I think the piping might be air bound also...
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:26 PM
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So... do I need to run 120v to the aquastat "R" (line) and white to the "W"?

It looks like the leads going to the fan are Yellow and black..

which do i break? what wires go where help please ..
I'll take another look at the documents later, but on quick first glance, I don't see any wiring diagrams... and from what I can tell, the blower in the unit is NOT 120VAC, but rather 230VAC.

So this needs a bit more study.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 12:36 PM
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ok Ill find wiring diagrams .... and yes you are correct on the blower being 230 vac

the Aquastat can be either or (120 vac or 240 vac)
 
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Old 10-26-13, 03:10 PM
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This is going to get complicated...

So... do I need to run 120v to the aquastat "R" (line) and white to the "W"?

It looks like the leads going to the fan are Yellow and black..

which do i break? what wires go where help please ..
NO, on the 120V.

I think the yellow and black wires you are talking about are the two on the primary side of the control transformer in the AH, so, NO, those aren't the right wires.

Let me just understand the whole setup before we send you down the path of no return...

You have an air conditioner unit outdoors and connected to the A-coil in the air handler.

Is that working yet? Or does that also need wired?

Your thermostat... you said:

I have an 18-3 wire running from the basement up to the T stat.
from the T stat i have an 18-5 wire.
The 18-3 is going to the Taco panel (the 504) to run the pump. Are you using all three wires? Meaning that you have a "C" wire in addition to the other two?

Where is the 18-5 going? to the outdoor AC unit? (via the AH which controls the outdoor unit)

You want this one thermostat to control the heat AND the AC...

What is the model of the thermostat?

Have you read up on using the thermostat with both heat and AC and understand about the jumper from R to Rc ? (they usually need removed in cases such as this)

I'm trying to get the big picture so as not to tell you something that will blow up your equipment.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 07:51 PM
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The 18-3 is going to the Taco panel (the 504) to run the pump. Are you using all three wires? No I am just using the Red and White wires


Where is the 18-5 going? The 18-5 wire runs from the T stat to the air handler ,18-2 wire runs from the air handler to the outdoor AC unit.

You want this one thermostat to control the heat AND the AC... YES

What is the model of the thermostat?
Honeywell Pro 6000 series 5 day + 2 day

Have you read up on using the thermostat with both heat and AC and understand about the jumper from R to Rc ? (they usually need removed in cases such as this)
Yes I removed the Jumper. I placed the wire for he "cooling " on RC and control for the heat (red wire) to R

Let me just understand the whole setup before we send you down the path of no return...

You have an air conditioner unit outdoors and connected to the A-coil in the air handler.

Is that working yet? Yes all connected and the cooling is up and running

I'm trying to get the big picture so as not to tell you something that will blow up your equipment.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 08:31 PM
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OK, I think I know what I need...

Let me look over the air handler diagram and get back to ya. There should be a contact that you can connect the aquatstat to with LOW VOLTAGE wiring that will run the blower.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 08:57 PM
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Yes... LOW VOLTAGE wiring to the fan control board terminal strip, the same one the thermostat is wired to.

You want to connect the terminals that 'make on rise' in the L6006 to the "R" and "G" terminals on the fan control board, in parallel with the same wires that come from the thermostat.

From the manual:

A. CONTINUOUS FAN
Thermostat closes circuit R to G.
Blower runs at continuous fan airflow.
Of course it won't be 'continuous' because the aquastat is controlling it, but you can see that in order for the blower in the unit to run, a contact closure between R and G is what is needed.

As for the possible air lock in the coil, were air bleeds installed at the unit?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:04 PM
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Something just occurred to me ... and I haven't yet looked at the PRO 6000 manual to verify...

I believe that there is a way to configure the thermostat to operate the G terminal when the thermostat is in the heating mode. If you have it configured this way, the blower will run as soon as there is a heat call.

Is it acting that way now?

If it IS, there is setting in the thermostat that will prevent this.

OR, is the blower NOT running when there is a heat call and that is the point of the 6006?

If so, then my previous post is correct.
 
  #13  
Old 10-26-13, 09:28 PM
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Exactly ... The thermostat calls for heat starts the circulation pump, FAN DOES NOT come on.

I'll post a picture of my boiler install. I have three ball valves (one before the circulator, one right after, another on on the return supply) I have a (spicket like valve on the return side)

I was told to purchase the 6006 to "make on rise" please disregard the PEX not connected , it has been connected for week now






 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:40 PM
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I'll post a picture of my boiler install. I have three ball valves (one before the circulator, one right after, another on on the return supply) I have a (spicket like valve on the return side)
I would like to see them, but the air bleeds I'm talking about would be at the hot water coil in the air handler, which I presume is in the attic?

While I'm thinking about this, how many feet of 'altitude' is there between the boiler and the air handler coil? If it's more than say 20' above the boiler, you may need to add a few PSI extra to the system when cold in order to compensate for the extra altitude. The 12 PSI so-called 'standard' is only good to about 20' of system height.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:42 PM
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here are a few pictures of the control board inside the A/H


 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:46 PM
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the complete "LOOP" is 180 feet.... to and from... 7' basement, up through the garage (wall across the ceiling) then up through the second floor addition into the attic.

So yes more than 20' above

ANd no air bleeds at the Aquacoil what would they be? like a spicket on each line?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:46 PM
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Nice! You did the install? Not your first rodeo is it cowboy?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:53 PM
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yes 1st and only install .. I also did the two A/C units ... everything was extremely hard to do.. i had a little help with some things

line line sets LOL one is over 80' the original part of the house is 1937 cape

so far this is what i have done (from a distance)

before

after
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:53 PM
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So yes more than 20' above
OK then... so here's how you figure the correct cold fill pressure to set your reducing valve to:

Take the height from the boiler to the highest point in system, let's use 26' for example.

26' X 0.432 PSI = 11.232 let's call this 11 PSI

( 0.432 is the pressure required to raise a water column 1 foot )

ADD to this number 4 PSI to give some positive static pressure at the top of the system... so 15 PSI should be your minimum cold fill pressure if you are 26' above boiler.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 09:59 PM
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Boy, what a difference that front porch makes!

I guess the garage is new too?

Need some shutters on those windows on the garage. Overhang above the garage doors = GOOD!

Be proud!

I wish I had some before and after pics of my place... it's unrecognizable from it's original form!
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:06 PM
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How come two wires on Y/Y2?

Isn't the R terminal supposed to go back to Rc on the thermostat? Looks like different gauge wire there... not thermosat wire?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:08 PM
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thank you...

I love to see before and after...

I guess I am one of those home owners that can envision "it" before its completion.. combine that with determination(stubbornness) and the will to learn and a bunch of ambition.. I'm off and running....

Agreed .. about the shutters... I ordered them last week. (white) though the face of the garage is helped out by the over hang, i agree the shutters are needed.

PS I am an electrician ... (not my current profession any longer) I got bored of it.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:10 PM
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Never mind the question on the Y/Y2... I figured it out.

Not sure on the Red though, unless that's tied into that orange wire nut?
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:12 PM
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the red wire to the "R" is just the float switch in the over flow pan to interrupt the system should the drain lines back up...

IDK about the two wires on Y/Y2 I thought that was how it was suppose to be .. I believe that the "Red" on Y/Y2 goes to the compressor outside and the "Yellow" wire goes to the T stat
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:15 PM
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yes the RED wire from the T stat goes through the float switch... the float switch had thicker wire
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:22 PM
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OK on float switch...

IDK about the two wires on Y/Y2 I thought that was how it was suppose to be .. I believe that the "Red" on Y/Y2 goes to the compressor outside and the "Yellow" wire goes to the T stat
Yes, after I looked again at the manual, that is the case.

The Y wire from the t'stat is the one that signals for 'compressor'.

I believe that the terminal on the fan board is just a 'tie point', no connections to the board itself.

The other wire that goes to the outdoor unit should be the white wire from the C terminal.
 
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Old 10-26-13, 10:24 PM
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YES on the White wire to C
 
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Old 10-27-13, 05:37 AM
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Good Morning...

I left the T-stat off/leaving the circulator off over night.

This morning I went into the basement opened my purge valve on the return line. Somehow it must have disloged the air pocket because the temp gauge just above the circulator started to change.

I then fussed around with it until I didn't hear anymore air skipping around through the circulation loop.

I set the boiler "SPACE" heating temp to 180*

I noticed the temperature on the supply line gauge rising.. Ran upstairs and put the "fan" on the A/H to "ON".

so for now i have heat over there..

Now all that I have to do is supply this aquastat with 120v and find a way to turn on the fan "ON RISE"
 
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Old 10-27-13, 08:42 AM
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Now all that I have to do is supply this aquastat with 120v and find a way to turn on the fan "ON RISE"
NO... see post #11.

All you need to do is run a 2 wire thermostat wire from the "R" and "W" terminals on the 6006 over to the "R" and "G" wires on the air handler fan control terminal strip.

For this case, you don't really care about the float switch so you can go directly to the "R" terminal on the AH strip, but it wouldn't much matter if you went to the other side of the float switch if you prefer. Condensate pan wouldn't be full during heating season... at least it shouldn't be... your call on where you want to take the "R" connection from.

When the water in the pipe (I presume that you've got the 6006 strapped to the pipe into the hydro coil on the AH?) reaches the setpoint you've set, the 6006 will 'make' R & W and the blower will run because of the contact closure from R to G in the AH.

No need to mess with 120VAC at all... all class 1 LV wiring.

At least as I understand what you want to do.
 
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Old 10-28-13, 03:28 AM
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Good Morning NJ Trooper

Thank you for your help and attention to my issues...

I appreciate you taking the time out of your weekend to help me solve my problem..

I am off to work this morning, however when I get back I will work on this and i will update you on the status..

Hope you have a great day!

Jon
 
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Old 10-30-13, 09:33 PM
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Thank you NJ Trooper..

I am just getting around to replying back to how it went. I been super busy ...

It worked... the only thing now is that I have the "on rise" set to low I think because the fan stays running.

Easy Fix i say

thank you so much for your professionalism and sound guidance.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 06:28 AM
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You're welcome!

The 6006 may have an adjustable differential. Some do have 'fixed' diff though. Check that you don't have the diff set too wide if yours is adjustable. You can probably do fine with a minimum diff in this application, all you need is a few degrees of 'hysterisis' to prevent fan from cycling.
 
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Old 10-31-13, 09:04 PM
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do have the diferential wheel.. its on "5" lowest setting?
 
 

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