thermostat wiring

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Old 11-01-13, 05:42 AM
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thermostat wiring

Hi,

I would like to install a Dayton 1UHG7 wireless thermostat for my hot water baseboard system. I need to connect the thermostat to a Honeywell V8043 zone valve. The other hardwired zones have a two wire thermostat theat opens the valve and fires the boiler. My other hard wired thermostats are connected to the TH/TR and TH termina on the valvel. My question is how do I connect the Dayton controller to the zone valve?

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-01-13, 08:19 AM
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Don't have the manual?

I don't either, and can't find it on the web... so I can only speak 'generically'/

That thermostat receiver unit should connect to the zone valve in the same fashion as a wired thermostat.
 
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Old 11-01-13, 10:40 AM
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Thanks for the help.



Here is a copy f the diagram provided with the unit.


The zone valve has markings TH/TR, TH and TR


Thanks again.
 
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Old 11-01-13, 11:57 AM
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Does it say in the manual that the receiver unit REQUIRES the "C" connection? OR does it say that it is OPTIONAL and that the unit can be powered by batteries?

If the C connection is REQUIRED then I will need you to check to be sure that the TH/TR TH TR terminals are wired properly before advising to use one of the as your C connection.

Can you fully describe how the zone valve you want to use is wired?
 
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Old 12-30-13, 01:52 PM
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Wiring

I found this post while looking for an answer for basically the same question. Here is the wiring for the Honeywell v8043.


Would confirming 24V current at "TR" be satisfactory for wiring from that terminal to the "C" terminal of the thermostat? Thanks for any info.
 
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Old 12-30-13, 02:09 PM
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Hi Joe,

What you need to be sure of is that the "R" terminal of the THERMOSTAT is going to the other side of the transformer. Don't rely on wire colors! They could be backwards... installer might have put RED on W and WHITE on R.

Also it helps to understand that the "TH/TR" terminal on the zone valve is NOT CONNECTED to anything internally in the zone valve. It is merely a convenient spot that Honeywell gave us to use as a 'tie point' and save an ugly wire nut.

So, bottom line:

If you've got the WHITE wire on the TH terminal

and the RED wire on the TH/TR terminal

and the WHITE wire to the W terminal of the thermostat

and the RED wire to the R terminal of the thermostat

then YES, you can use the TR terminal of the zone valve to land your C wire from the thermostat.
 
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Old 12-30-13, 03:03 PM
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For the 'visual thinkers' among us:

 
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Old 01-01-14, 05:05 PM
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Thermostat Wiring

NJ Trooper,

Thanks for the information and illustration. I am unsure if it matters, but my existing wiring is slightly different (color-wise) at the Honeywell valve.

A loom is present at the valve with a red and white wire.

The red wire attaches to the TR terminal.

The white wire attaches to the TH/TR terminal.

The two brown wires (one attached to the TH terminal, the other attached to the TH/TR terminal at the valve) both go to my current thermostat - one attaching to the W terminal and the other attaching to the jumpered RH and RC terminals.

This thermostat is powered by batteries. However the new thermostat (Z-Wave Trane TZEMT400BB32MAA) requires a C wire connection. I plan to purchase thermostat wiring to replace the brown wires. The thermostat terminals I'll be using are 24RC, 24C, and 24RH.

I need to find the coresponding terminals for following connections:

----------OLD----------NEW
VALVE----T-STAT------T-STAT

TH--------? ------------?
TH/TR-----? ------------?
TR--------N/A-----------24C

When I pull the old brown wires, I will be able to isolate which brown wire goes to which terminal by just pulling one initially. (i.e. If I disconnect the brown wire from the TH terminal on the valve, I can pull it back to the thermostat to determine which terminal it was connected to - RH or RC.) Will this method get me the answer to the ?'s above? Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old 01-01-14, 06:35 PM
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With a 2 wire thermostat it simply didn't matter which wire went to which terminal. You could reverse them and it would work just the same. Ditto with the transformer wiring, being AC voltage, polarity isn't important.

When you add that C wire though, the picture changes... it still doesn't matter which transformer terminal you call 'hot' (red) and which you call 'common' (white) since polarity is irrelevant with AC voltage... but it DOES matter to the thermostat that the C and R are not reversed.

Keep in mind that the "TH/TR" terminal on the zone valve is simply a 'tie point'. There is no connection at all inside the zone valve to that terminal.

What is important is that the W terminal of the new t'stat is NOT connected to anything but the TH terminal on the zone valve, that the C terminal of the new t'stat IS connected to the TR terminal of the zone valve.

----------OLD----------NEW
VALVE----T-STAT------T-STAT

TH--------? ------------ should be " W "
TH/TR-----? ------------ should be " R "
TR--------N/A-----------24C
 
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Old 01-01-14, 09:42 PM
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NJ Trooper,

Ok, your explanation clarified a lot. I took a snapshot of the new thermostat terminals as well as the instructional step from the installation guide.

It appears that for this thermostat, "W" equals "W1", and "R" equals "24RC". Based on the information you provided, I'll connect the terminals as follows:


----------NEW
VALVE----T-STAT

TH--------W1
TH/TR-----24RC
TR--------24C

Note: 24RC and 24RH are jumpered by default on the circuit board.

Thanks again for all your help! I plan on waiting for a warm day (3 or 4 months from now) to kill the power and hook this up!
 
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Last edited by joeratman; 01-01-14 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Added note
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Old 01-02-14, 06:29 AM
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Usually the RC and RH terminals are adjacent to each other and connected together with a jumper strap...

Never mind the above, I didn't see this statement in your message at first read:

Note: 24RC and 24RH are jumpered by default on the circuit board.
RC is usually the 24V from the Cooling system and RH is the 24V from the Heating system so I'm not clear on why this particular thermostat says to connect the R to RC...

Read through the booklet and see if they provide any explanation for "HEAT ONLY" systems, and why they are recommending to use RC as R ... I'm not saying it's wrong, but only that it's wise to fully understand function.

It would seem to make sense to me that if you were running heat only, that the R connection would go to the RH terminal, but since they are jumpered, it wouldn't matter anyway.

You are NOT going to control air conditioning with this stat?

If you WERE also doing A/C with it, the instructions would say to remove the RC / RH jumper and connect the R from the heating to the RH and the R from the cooling to the RC
 
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