bad boiler gauge? or?
#1
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bad boiler gauge? or?
Hello.
I've been fighting with a boiler issue, when it reaches its set temperature of 180 degrees, just after the burners go off the gauge is showing 20-25 psi then slowly rises to over 30 psi, sometimes even 40 psi but the PRV never opens or leaks.
I have open/closed the PRV manually a few times and even managed to accidentally force it open by leaving the fastfill on the fill valve open. So I know it works.
I drained the system and replaced the fill valve and expansion tank. (old fill valve was faulty, not filling system with normal setting)
But the problem persists, gauge still rises to 30-40psi after burners turns off.
The heat is working fine at every radiator and operates normally.
Should I be concerned about this gauge reading? The boiler says 30psi max on it. The only thing i haven't replaced is the flow control valve.
Some pictures....


PRV label

Fill valve label

expansion tank label

Gauge@ cold

gauge@ burners off

gauge@ few minutes after burners off
I've been fighting with a boiler issue, when it reaches its set temperature of 180 degrees, just after the burners go off the gauge is showing 20-25 psi then slowly rises to over 30 psi, sometimes even 40 psi but the PRV never opens or leaks.
I have open/closed the PRV manually a few times and even managed to accidentally force it open by leaving the fastfill on the fill valve open. So I know it works.
I drained the system and replaced the fill valve and expansion tank. (old fill valve was faulty, not filling system with normal setting)
But the problem persists, gauge still rises to 30-40psi after burners turns off.
The heat is working fine at every radiator and operates normally.
Should I be concerned about this gauge reading? The boiler says 30psi max on it. The only thing i haven't replaced is the flow control valve.
Some pictures....


PRV label

Fill valve label

expansion tank label

Gauge@ cold

gauge@ burners off

gauge@ few minutes after burners off

#2
Is the line from the expansion tank connected to the red flo-control valve? That is unusual.
There is a "sticky" on this forum that explains how to check the gauge. Otherwise, I would just replace it. The scale on the pressure gauge is not very good for reading the pressure.
Did you check the air charge in the new expansion tank before pressurizing the water side?
There is a "sticky" on this forum that explains how to check the gauge. Otherwise, I would just replace it. The scale on the pressure gauge is not very good for reading the pressure.
Did you check the air charge in the new expansion tank before pressurizing the water side?
Last edited by gilmorrie; 11-03-13 at 08:19 AM.
#3
Here is the post Gilmorrie is referring to:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html
It's highly possible that your gauge is reading wrong.
Did you happen to notice what the gauge was reading when this occurred?
As an FYI, you should also read this one:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
There are step by step for properly charging the air in a tank when needed... which should be BI-ANNUALLY at the minimum. The most important thing to understand about the process of charging and checking the air in the tank is that there can be NO PRESSURE on the water side while doing so.
At some point you may wish to add the additional valve that are shown in the sticky post to make servicing the tank a 10 minute job...
The connection of the tank at that location is not a problem.
There is no reason to have to change the flow control valve. It's just a weighted disc inside that lifts when the pump turns on. If you are getting heat properly, and not getting heat from 'ghost flow' when the system is off, then the valve is functioning properly.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...ure-gauge.html
It's highly possible that your gauge is reading wrong.
accidentally force it open by leaving the fastfill on the fill valve open.
As an FYI, you should also read this one:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
There are step by step for properly charging the air in a tank when needed... which should be BI-ANNUALLY at the minimum. The most important thing to understand about the process of charging and checking the air in the tank is that there can be NO PRESSURE on the water side while doing so.
At some point you may wish to add the additional valve that are shown in the sticky post to make servicing the tank a 10 minute job...
The connection of the tank at that location is not a problem.
There is no reason to have to change the flow control valve. It's just a weighted disc inside that lifts when the pump turns on. If you are getting heat properly, and not getting heat from 'ghost flow' when the system is off, then the valve is functioning properly.
#5
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No i didn't check the expansion tank.. i just picked it up at home depot and hooked it up, I did check the old one before removing it and it was fine. I now realize i should've installed a valve and drain 
I've heard they are filled with nitrogen at the factory and just checking the pressure can lower it.
I did check the pressure when the PRV opened that one time and it was between 0-10 (iirc)... also the gauge seems very slow to respond.
I think the mains pressure is somewhere around 55psi
I managed to get this picture last night. This was after 2 consecutive burns. And again the PRV valve never opens or leaks. I checked a couple radiators for air again.. just straight water. No strange noises or anything to cause alarm... aquastat was/is set to 180

Also a bit more info about the system.. boiler is from 1995 and its a two story home.

I will try to build one of those test gauges, thanks guys!

I've heard they are filled with nitrogen at the factory and just checking the pressure can lower it.
I did check the pressure when the PRV opened that one time and it was between 0-10 (iirc)... also the gauge seems very slow to respond.
I think the mains pressure is somewhere around 55psi
I managed to get this picture last night. This was after 2 consecutive burns. And again the PRV valve never opens or leaks. I checked a couple radiators for air again.. just straight water. No strange noises or anything to cause alarm... aquastat was/is set to 180

Also a bit more info about the system.. boiler is from 1995 and its a two story home.

I will try to build one of those test gauges, thanks guys!
Last edited by tocaedit; 11-03-13 at 02:34 PM.
#6
No i didn't check the expansion tank..
I recommend you depressurize the water side of the expansion tank and check the pressure.
#7
The scale on the pressure gauge is not very good for reading the pressure.

#8
I doubt the Nitrogen story myself... I seriously doubt that a manufacturer would add any extra cost to manufacturing the tanks... knowing full well that service guys aren't going to carry an N2 tank on their truck to recharge the tanks in the field.
As long as you've got room under the tank, you can always do that later...
Yeah... something wrong with that gauge. No way the relief valve could have opened THAT low!
OK, you've got your marching orders, let us know what you find!
I now realize i should've installed a valve and drain
I did check the pressure when the PRV opened that one time and it was between 0-10 (iirc)... also the gauge seems very slow to respond.
OK, you've got your marching orders, let us know what you find!