Beckett AFG buner problems

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Old 11-04-13, 10:40 AM
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Beckett AFG buner problems

Hello, first post here!

I have a Beckett AFG burner on a Burnham Boiler and the burner has developed an issue. originally the burner stopped in the middle of the night and I went down to look at it and the reset button was popped. So I pushed it in and it only ran for about 3 seconds. then it stopped and after 20 seconds it popped again. I pushed it in again an once again it ran for a few seconds.. So I replaced the Carlin igniter (we have had to replace this part about every 2 years) and I also replaced the nozzle while I was at it. now it will only ignite for a split second then just runs till it resets. I cracked the metal hose from the fuel pump to the nozzle tube and it was pushing fuel (I don't know how to check the PSI) and the nozzle seemed to have unburned fuel on it, so I am assuming that this is a spark issue. The electrodes are totally flat and have no points so I am assuming they have a part to play in this issue. But the fact that it was running for a few seconds leaves me to believe that the electrodes were working can they be filed to a point or do they need replaced? Any other thoughts on what is causing the issue?

Any help would be great!

Thanks
Ryan
 
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Old 11-04-13, 11:30 AM
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Your primary control with the reset is probably a 30 or 45 sec. safety. Your burner should be running at least that long. Since you've had the nozzle line off already if you you disconnect it from the nozzle assembly, leave it on the pump, get a container, start the burner and make sure you have good oil flow. If you do then you have an ignition problem. Your ignitors could possibly be worn out. They are cheap enough to replace but must be installed properly or they won't work. If its the ignition and you're getting oil I wouldn't recommend you keep pushing the reset. Every time you push the reset and the burner comes on but doesn't ignite you're pumping fuel into the chamber and when it finally does ignite all that unburned oil will also ignite and sometimes its not a pretty sight. As far as checking the pressure there is a port on the pump but if you're not experienced you can do more harm than good. If you're oil flow doesn't seem good or just dribbles out check your oil filter and some pumps have a screen also that could be clogged. The nozzle line is the simplest way to check. Good luck
 
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Old 11-04-13, 11:30 AM
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Oil filter? Strainer screen in the pump?

How did you set the electrodes after you replaced the nozzle? You know that there are very specific dimensions, right?

Is burner making any unusual sounds?

How about the 'coupler' that drives the oil pump from the blower motor?
 
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Old 11-04-13, 08:12 PM
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The electrodes are totally flat and have no points so I am assuming they have a part to play in this issue. But the fact that it was running for a few seconds leaves me to believe that the electrodes were working can they be filed to a point or do they need replaced?
I have a Beckett AFG burner also. Above is a picture of my electrodes after my oil guys had been (supposedly) maintaining my system for years. This was the first clue that I had that - maybe Ė just maybe - these guys werenít doing a very good job. LOL

Anyway to my total amazement those really flat electrodes didnít stop my system from running Ė so maybe those AFG suckers can still operate with real funny electrodes. Trooper would sure know.

Just thought Iíd mention that since you said yours are real flat.

Iím just a newbie but it seems to me those electrodes are cheap enough, and I think you would have to go through the trouble of setting the dimensions properly anyway after you filed them, that it would make sense just to buy new electrodes. But the experts might see different. (You get a little gauge with the electrode kits which helps).

My understanding is as spott says: you donít want to keep hitting the reset button if your oil is spraying but isnít being ignited.

Good luck!
 
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Old 11-05-13, 06:05 AM
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Just by looking at the above picture, I can tell you those electrodes are done and way out of alignment. They are set to high above the nozzle. You can purchase a Beckett electrode kit which comes with the alignment gauge for under 20 bucks. You can also download the Beckett manual which gives you dimensions and clear pictures of the set up.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 06:21 AM
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Electrodes don't need points and they don't really wear out unless they've burned back so much the gap can't be closed up. With all of the newer primary controls ignition drops out after the end of TFI so they'll probably last as long as the rest of the burner.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 06:25 AM
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As they wear they open up. To close the gap you rotate them, which puts them up higher above the nozzle then spec'd out by Beckett. Why chance a no start during a cold winter night for an item that's less then 20 bucks? That picture above clearly shows worn out parts no longer in spec.

Depending on the head, the electrodes should have a 5/32 gap and be 5/16 or 1/4 inch above the center of the nozzle and spaced 1/16 - 1/8th in front.

Page 7 here:
http://www.beckettcorp.com/protect/t...R02%203706.pdf
 
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Old 11-05-13, 06:57 AM
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To close the gap you rotate them
Yes, and/or bend them. There's quite a bit of adjustment that can be performed before they need replaced

Why chance a no start during a cold winter night
Who said to do that?
 
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Old 11-05-13, 11:29 AM
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Just by looking at the above picture, I can tell you those electrodes are done and way out of alignment. They are set to high above the nozzle. You can purchase a Beckett electrode kit which comes with the alignment gauge for under 20 bucks. You can also download the Beckett manual which gives you dimensions and clear pictures of the set up.
I wasnít clear Tom Ė I did replace them with a Beckett electrode kit as soon as I saw them and I already had the Beckett manual at that time. My point was the system was up and running with those! I took them out ready to make some precise measurements Ė and surprise surprise, no points whatsoever. LOL So I didnít measure anything at that time. I could see they were nowhere near set properly. LOL

But seems like heatpro must be correct Ė otherwise how in the world was my burner running all that time? Ticked me off though that the service guys just let them go. Was paying $275 bucks a year for a yearly tune-up (and some parts if needed), and those cheapskates couldnít put in some new electrodes or at least adjust them or something?

I just brought this up because it sounds if barclayrl, like me, looked at the electrodes and said ďthis ainít rightĒ . But maybe thatís not the problem? I think Iíve also heard other experienced guys like heatpro, not get too upset about electrodes with no tips.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for the responses so far, i have an electrode kit coming soon, so I will install them and use the inclided gauge to set them properly. I will also blow out the fuel line from the pump to the nozzle line, and also blow out the 90 degree nozzle line with about 120 PSI of air (with the nozzle removed)

I will post an update once completed.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 02:33 PM
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Does your boiler have any kind of combustion chamber inspection door? If so, you can pick up one of those telescoping mirrors and use it to confirm spark out at the electrode tips when the burner is trying to fire.

Another thing is to check/clean the CAD cell "eye".
 
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