Cast iron radiator not getting hot

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Old 11-05-13, 07:12 AM
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Cast iron radiator not getting hot

Hi guys I had my boiler replaced about 6 month ago I now have a Budures g115 with the Logamatic. I have been told that I have cast iron baseboards on a venturi system. It's a two-story house with only 1 zone the kitchen has the cast iron radiator that's is not getting hot. I have Bleed the system and I have water coming out of the bleeder the only time I can get the radiator hot is when I'm bleeding the system and letting the water drain out. One side if the piping is hot but on the return side is cold. The radiator worked before the boiler was replaced. Am I missing something? When I bleed the system no air comes out only water and if I keep bleeding the radiator I do get hot water but it won't stay hot and gets cold.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 07:50 AM
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Monoflo(tm) tee systems can be troublesome to bleed.

What is probably happening is that the water you are getting out is coming up the supply pipe and the return pipe is where the blockage is.

What pressure and temperature is the gauge on the boiler reading during a heat call?

One can temporarily bump the pressure up using the fast fill lever on the pressure reducing valve in order to move that air bubble... try getting it up to say 25 PSI and bleed again.

Try bleeding with the system cold... and hot... with the pump running... and with it not running...

Are the pipes exposed in the basement that feed the kitchen baseboard? Are there any valves on the pipes to and/or from the baseboard? Or a valve between the two tees by chance?

As a last resort, you may have to do a 'power purge', and being a new install I would think that they've installed proper 'purge stations' that would allow you to do so.

Can you take some pics of the boiler and the piping all around it?
 
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Old 11-05-13, 09:10 AM
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Yes I will take pics when I get home from work I know for the PSI is at 18. What is the max PSI I can go?
 
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Old 11-05-13, 09:50 AM
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This is what I have now for pic I will take more when I am home









 
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Old 11-05-13, 05:23 PM
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More pics













 

Last edited by NJT; 11-05-13 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 11-05-13, 06:22 PM
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I put up more pics but got a message saying mods need to ok it. But I did bring the psi up to 25 and bleed it still no luck.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 07:43 PM
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Part of the reason for moderation might have been that you posted them twice... but what happens is that the system detects a 'new user' with a lot of attachments and flags it for the mods... helps to keep the 'junk' off the system. You wouldn't believe what miscreants try to do. I approved them...

Where did you bleed the rads, from the valve at the top?
 
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Old 11-05-13, 07:46 PM
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Oh ok that's why then. But yes from the top.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 08:26 PM
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Could it be that the pump is undersized? It's a taco 007 F5
 
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Old 11-05-13, 09:25 PM
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Could it be that the pump is undersized? It's a taco 007 F5
Probably not. Believe it or not, that 007 has a very similar pump characteristic to the Bell & Gossett Series 100 pump, and those have been used successfully for 5 or 6 decades with Monoflo systems.
 
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Old 11-05-13, 09:49 PM
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I noticed the vent is on the same side as the valve. Is the valve on the supply side or return. If the vent is on the supply side that could be the reason you cannot get the air out.
 
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Old 11-06-13, 05:32 AM
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Can you tell me what pic that is? So I can look at it when I get home?
 
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Old 11-06-13, 05:49 AM
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Ok does the install look right to you guys? I've been told that the pump should be on the supply side is this true?
 
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Old 11-06-13, 12:54 PM
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The pic of the full rad. It shows the valve and bleeder on the left hand side. In a perfect world they would like to see the pump on the supply but its been on the return for 50yrs without a problem. On residential systems its not critical. No matter what side its on if there's air in the system you're going to have problems.
 
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Old 11-06-13, 07:50 PM
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The Bleeder is on the return side. If I post of more pics of my boiler setup can you guys tell
me if the job was done right?
 
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Old 11-06-13, 08:22 PM
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I see you have no handle on the rad. valve. Can you shut the valve off while you bleed the rad to make sure its feeding through and not just coming up the return and continue bleeding until the rad gets hot. Make sure you have at least 25lbs. Pres. In boiler. Open up the valve and see what happens.
 
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Old 11-06-13, 08:55 PM
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Ok I will see what I can do by the looks of the valve it looks like it can't take much but I will try to see if I can turn it off. Also how does a fast Purge work and how would I do that on this system because I know the installer did not do that.
 
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Old 11-06-13, 09:51 PM
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I don't know unless they cut valves and drain valves on your lines and I don't see any. I could be wrong but I think you have a Flo problem because of the way they piped it. It looks like they went off in two different directions which would have been fine had they used a buulhead tee instead of the way they did it. Even though you do have a pump you have a lot of resistance.going through those fittings then up to the rads. and back down to the boiler. The water gets very lazy. It also looks like the cut the pipe size down coming off that tee at the boiler. With a monoflo you're loosing a portion of your water at every unit. That's why you'll see your 11/4 pipe that was there. When they cut the pipe size they cut the volume. I'm thinking those copper pipes were put in with the new boiler. Just my thoughts for now. Does the rad that doesn't heat come off the copper line with the expansion tank?
 
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Old 11-07-13, 10:06 AM
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How too

Do you guys see where I would purge the system? I have a drain on the back side of the boiler is that where I would connet the house?
 
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Old 11-07-13, 11:34 AM
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Should this be leaking?

 
 

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