ENERGY KINETICS 2000 - Zone Valve issue

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Old 11-05-13, 08:39 AM
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ENERGY KINETICS 2000 - Zone Valve issue

We just moved into a new house 2 months ago and the heating zone for the living room is acting up. It is a forced hot water furnace with a 5 zone system. Each zone has a Honeywell V8043a zone valve.

The issue: It seems it will keep sending heat up into the zone (zone 2) even after the temp on the thermostat is reached. We noticed this last week, when the heat shot up in the room, but it went away until yesterday. Last night we heard a buzzing/vibration in the pipes. I went down to the furnace and found the sound was coming from the zone valve motor for the living room zone (zone 2).

It seems the valve motor is not powering the valve to close after the desired temperature is reached (but it will shut off the boiler if it's the only zone running). Since the valve is left open, when any zone calls for heat the circulator pump pushes water up through the zone that triggered the boiler & the living room zone, heating both zones. The pipe above the valve remains hot even when no heat is called in that zone (but the boiler is running in other zones). There is a manual lever on the zone valve which moves freely. The manual lever on the other zones do not move freely and there is resistance when trying to open/close the valve (it will spring it back into the proper position). So it seems as if either the motor in the zone valve went bad or the "powerhead" (the metal case with motor) went bad.

I am just not sure if I should I buy just the motor, or if I should buy the powerhead (which also has a new motor). How do I test each individual component? Does it sound like I have this diagnosed right? How easy is it to replace these components?

Thanks for any and all help!
 

Last edited by NJT; 11-08-13 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 11-06-13, 04:49 PM
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It seems the valve motor is not powering the valve to close after the desired temperature is reached
The Honeywell valves are SPRING RETURN, the motor basically shuts off and the springs pull the valve shut.

If you are hearing a 'buzzing' from the valve when the thermostat connected to it should no longer be calling for heat, then I might think that something is wrong with the thermostat...

How are the valves wired? Individual wires from valve to valve, in what I call 'rats nest' fashion? or do you have a 'control panel' to which the valves are wired?
 
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Old 11-08-13, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I went ahead and bought a new motor (Tuesday) and replaced it (was quite easy) and it went back to working fine.

Now it's Friday and different zone valve (#5) isn't closing and doing the same thing (when heat is called in other zones it also heats up that ! Is this just a coincidence or should I be thinking this is a bigger issue? I can't imagine it's a larger issue since I don't see the previous homeowners buying new motors every few days...

The zones are wired into a panel on the front of the boiler.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 11-08-13, 03:29 PM
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The zones are wired into a panel on the front of the boiler.
Can you give us a bit more information than this? Doesn't really tell us much.

Pictures might help.
 
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Old 11-08-13, 03:43 PM
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Here are two pictures I just took, sorry for the low quality. The one is the "panel" (one zone was running at the time of the photo).

The other are of the 5 zone valves. From L-R the 3rd zone is the current one in question. The far one on the right is the one that caused my original post, but I replaced the motor and it works fine. I shut off the water feed (above the zone motor)to zone 3 to stop heating the zone. Like last time, the manual lever is loose w/ no resistance on that one zone even though the heat is shut off in the zone and there is no call for heat.

Is is just a coincidence that I will be replacing two of the zone motors in a week or a larger issue?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 11-08-13, 04:08 PM
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I guess I should have asked first what boiler system you had. I'm not at all familiar with the Energy Kinetics 2000 system manager... but I do know someone who is...

I don't see anything that suggests that there may be a larger issue. I believe it may just simply be coincidence...

Hopefully my EK guru will see this post after I change the title and jump in...

By the way, you said that the zone valves are V8043 A ... not a typo? they aren't V8043 E models? (not a problem if they are, just want to know what you've got.)
 
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Old 11-08-13, 04:36 PM
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I looked and apparently the first two zones (from L-R) are V8043Es and the next three zones are the As.

The last "A" zone is the one I swapped the motor on this week, the new issue is with the first "A" zone".

Hope this helps a bit...I am pretty new at this so if I am leaving anything out feel free to ask. Thanks again for all the help!!!
 
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Old 11-11-13, 05:30 AM
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Sometimes the gear train on those zone valves jam, keeping the valve open. Also, the system manager keeps the valve for the last active zone open and the circ running to cool the boiler down when the t'stat is satisfied. However, if another zone becomes active that other zone should close. The purge times are as follows: zones 1 & 5 are 5 minutes and zones 2, 3 & 4 are 20 minutes.
 
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Old 11-12-13, 04:19 PM
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I replaced the zone valve yesterday, the valve was closing normally. However, now the zone in question is heating up way past the setting on the thermostat. It's been set at 62 kicked on for a few minutes and shut off, and right now the room it is at 70. If it leaves that zone valve open 20min after the last call for heat, I guess that would explain why it goes above the desired temp, but is there anyway to shorten that time? Or could I possibly have a bad thermostat (old mercury analog) in that zone?

Thanks again
 
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Old 11-12-13, 04:36 PM
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Or could I possibly have a bad thermostat (old mercury analog) in that zone?
Pop the cover off that thermostat and look to see what the 'anticipator' setting is.
 
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Old 11-12-13, 05:38 PM
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The anticipator was set to run the burner longer so I adjusted it down one point. I will give it a day to see if is working better.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 11-12-13, 05:56 PM
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Make sure the base plate is level too.
 
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Old 11-13-13, 06:41 AM
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The correct heat anticipator setting is 0.1.
 
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