DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Heating, Cooling, Air Conditioning, Ventilation and T-Stat Controls > Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems

Would you Recommend Using a Leak Stop Product.

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

11-10-13, 08:57 PM

dunoon

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Feb 2008

Location: Western Va.

Posts: 26

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

Would you Recommend Using a Leak Stop Product.

I designed and installed a hydronic heating system a couple years ago. It one zone with 4 loops using a TT PS 60 boiler. I have a very small leak somewhere I lose 2 psi every-other month. I don't use the auto fill valve, I add water manually. I've checked over this system 10-15 times. It's dry, so I'm thinking about trying some heating system stop-leak but, I'm concerned about the small passage for water thru the shaft of my Taco VDT circ. Has anyone used this type product with a Taco circ. Any suggestions would most appreciated. Thanks

Upvote

11-11-13, 08:28 AM

spott

Member

Join Date: Oct 2013

Location: United States

Posts: 2,751

Upvotes: 16

Received 137 Upvotes on 129 Posts

Personally I wouldn't use it. Unless there's something new on the market better than what they had. It reeked havoc with the systems, plugging vents anything in its path..

Upvote

11-11-13, 09:41 AM

gilmorrie

Member

Join Date: Oct 2008

Location: USA

Posts: 2,601

Upvotes: 17

Received 27 Upvotes on 26 Posts

The leak may be evaporating before it shows up?

I would try leak-detection dye first. The leak will show up when exposed by an UV lamp. Kits are available - be sure that you get the version for water, not for Freon.

Upvote

11-11-13, 10:05 AM

NJT

Member

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: USA

Posts: 19,710

Upvotes: 0

Received 8 Upvotes on 6 Posts

Yeah... you don't wanna clog that thing all up with glue...

Check the schrader valve on your expansion tank.

Upvote

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Show Printable Version

Email this Page

Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
Oil vs. Gas Dew Point

G

gilmorrie on Nov 10, 2013

Why do gas-fired boilers have a higher dew-point temperature for the flue gas than oil-fired boilers? Natural gas is methane, CH4. Fuel oil is not a homogeneous compound, but can be approximated by: C12H23 So, natural gas has, on a molecular basis, 4 times the hydrogen vs. the carbon. Fuel oil is half that, 2 times the hydrogen vs. the carbon. So when natural gas burns, the flue gas is much higher in moisture content, H2O. (When the carbon burns, it becomes CO2 and doesn't condense.)Read More
Boilers - Home Heating Steam and Hot Water Systems
Activating Radiant Circ Pump via 24vac Output from Honeywell AQ251

B

Bob_VC on Oct 17, 2013

Hi Guys, New to the forum. Probably been a good 10+ years since I've posted anything in any forum, but I'm stumped by what should be a simple problem, and I'm hoping someone here can help. I recently purchased a 5 y/o 2 floor home with walk out partially finished basement. The home has a Buderus G115WS boiler controled by a Honeywell AQ251 boiler reset control panel. The system has three zones and DHW. The DHW and zones 1 & 2 are controlled by Taco 571-2 zone valves, and that part of the system is working fine. The problem is with the 3rd zone, and I believe something was designed incorrectly... The 3rd zone is a radiant heating system in the basement. Instead of a zone valve, there is a circulator pump connected to it which is in turn connected to an Argo 822 relay which then connects to the 3rd zone output of the AQ251. When I first moved in I noticed the circulator pump was constantly running, so I called my oil provider for service. The first tech they sent out noticed the Argo 822 had been jumped at the T-T and that was why it kept running. He removed the jumper, which stopped the pump from running, but then it wouldn't activate when there was a zone 3 call for heat. He suggested I have one of their other techs out to figure out what was going on. The 2nd tech came out a few days later and was unable to get it working properly and suggested I call Honeywell for support. I called Honeywell and the tech asked me to check the output at the zone 3 connector during a call for heat, so I disconnected the zone 3 output on the AQ251 and ran a call for heat. I then checked the output, and it was around 25v or so (close enough to 24). AQ251 seemed ok. For the heck of it I check the wires that were coming from the 822 and noticed they also had about 24v coming off them. That's when I realized that the current setup was unworkable. If I'm correct, the 822 has a transformer feeding 24vac to the T-T terminals expecting to be connected to a thermostat, which in turn would then close the circuit when there is a call for heat. The AQ251 on the other hand is putting out 24vac to close a valve. Assuming i'm correct, what is the easiest solution? I've looked for a simple 120vac relay which can be activated by the 24vac output from the AQ251, and I haven't found anything too straight forward (all the hydronic control have tranformers to feed a TT like the 822). Alternately, should I keep the 822 and try to get a simple 24vac relay which will close the T-T circuit on the 822 when the AQ251 calls for heat on zone 3? Seems like there should be a really simple fix I'm overlooking.. I'm really surprised that the system was designed like this, but luckily it looks as though everything else was designed fairly well. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.Read More

Ask a Question