Only half of radiator hot, presure is around 12-15 psi, no water out of bleed

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Old 11-13-13, 08:26 AM
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Only half of radiator hot, presure is around 12-15 psi, no water out of bleed

I have a hot water boiler and the 2nd floor radiators are not getting completely hot.
Some of the fins are getting a little hot but the fins closer to the bleeder valve are not getting warm.

When I bleed the radiators, I hear air coming out but water never comes out. The pressure gauge reads around 12-15 psi.

I think I may need to add water but I'm not sure since the pressure is where it's supposed to be.

Should I verity the pressure gauge is working properly with another gauge?

I'm not sure if the system has an auto fill valve or not. I will upload some pics when I get home.

What the first thing I should check to get the radiators to work properly?

Thanks for any advice.

Slash
 
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Old 11-13-13, 09:16 AM
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Hi Slash, yeah, pics might be helpful.

When I bleed the radiators, I hear air coming out but water never comes out
I would not be at all surprised if you were to learn that air is actually being sucked IN!

The pressure gauge reads around 12-15 psi.
At what temperature? If the boiler is HOT at that pressure, then it's too low. You should have 12-15PSI on a COLD boiler and maybe as much as 10PSI higher when hot.

Should I verity the pressure gauge is working properly with another gauge?
Yes, always a good idea with problems of this sort... I guess you've seen the 'sticky' post at the top of the forum on how to do so?
 
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Old 11-13-13, 12:54 PM
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NJ Trooper, thanks for the reply.
You were right about the pressure. The 12-15 psi was hot not cold.
Cold, it was around 5 psi. I have pics of both.

I don't think I have an automatic fill valve. I took lots of pics. If you see one in a pic, please let me know.

Please see the attached photos. I have an old big expansion tank also.

There are 2 ball valves that are open and an old gate valve that is either stuck open or closed. I have to find my monkey wrench to turn it because I can't turn it with my hands.

I'm assuming the gate valve is closed. My plan was top open a radiator on the 2nd floor and then open the gate valve until water starts coming out of the radiator.
Does this sound like what needs to happen?

Any advice?

Thanks again.

Slash
 
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Old 11-13-13, 01:00 PM
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Here are 2 more pictures.
 
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Old 11-13-13, 01:27 PM
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I don't think I have an automatic fill valve. I took lots of pics. If you see one in a pic, please let me know
Yes... pictures 8 and 9 (duplicate?) ...

more later...
 
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Old 11-13-13, 01:39 PM
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Thanks. Yes, those were duplicate pics.
The black gate in the top of picture 6 controls the water to that auto fill valve. I bet it's shut and it need to be opened. I will attempt to open it with a monkey wrench.

Thanks again.

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Old 11-13-13, 02:33 PM
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I'm assuming the gate valve is closed.
I wouldn't assume that. It might be though.

You put a wrench on that valve without KNOWING if it's open or closed and you could cause more problems than you want to deal with.

Instead, I say to close both of the ball valves on either side of the fill regulator and with a bucket underneath, remove the big nut on the bottom of the valve. You will find a metal strainer screen inside. Remove and clean it.

While you've got the screen out, turn on (with a bucket under it!) the UPSTREAM ball valve and if you get water you will know the gate valve is OPEN. Continue to flush out the line... maybe a gallon or so... get the 'crud out of the line...

Then, reinstall the screen and the nut and see if you can get any water into the boiler now.

My plan was top open a radiator on the 2nd floor and then open the gate valve until water starts coming out of the radiator.
Does this sound like what needs to happen?
No, not really.

First try to pressurize the boiler to the correct pressure and then try to bleed the radiators.
 
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Old 11-13-13, 06:16 PM
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Thanks NJ Trooper.
I am going to do this tomorrow.
I will keep you updated of the outcome.

Slash
 
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Old 11-14-13, 08:14 AM
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NJ Trooper,

I removed the screen and the top of it was torn. Hopefully I can find a replacement.

I opened the ball valve and water came out so the gate valve was open.
I put the screen back in and tightened it back to the valve.
Then I lifted the lever on top of the valve and put it back down. That's when the valve started to work properly. It filled the boiler to about 15psi.

Should I replace the valve or do you think it will work correctly now?

Any idea where I can get a new screen?

Thanks again.

Slash
 
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Old 11-14-13, 08:44 AM
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Hopefully I can find a replacement... Any idea where I can get a new screen?
I did some googling and wasn't able to locate... there is a repair kit for the complete valve which looks like it includes the screen, but it was about $30 and for only a few bucks more a whole new valve can be had.

Was there any 'crud' caught in the screen? If not, maybe just don't worry about it.

Should I replace the valve or do you think it will work correctly now?
Give it a chance! Might be OK... just 'stuck'. Watch the pressure though to make sure it's not slowly creeping up. There's basically two ways these valves fail, either they won't feed water at all, or they leak through internally and over pressure the boiler.
 
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Old 11-14-13, 09:08 AM
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Found it... finally... can't understand why this was so difficult to locate!

118036 - Bell & Gossett 118036 - Strainer & Gasket Kit
 
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Old 11-14-13, 11:20 AM
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There wasn't much crud in the screen but it was torn. I'll keep an eye on the pressure.
I saw some new pressure valves for around $50 on line.

I still need to get a water pressure gauge to verify that my boiler gauge is accurate.

Thanks again.

Slash
 
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Old 11-14-13, 12:17 PM
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I saw some new pressure valves for around $50 on line.
How about $40?

110192 - Bell & Gossett 110192 - FB-38 Pressure Reducing Valve

Were you able to get the radiators bled and they are heating now with the pressure up where it should be?
 
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Old 11-14-13, 06:22 PM
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$40 is good. That looks like the exact same valve.
All seems to be working perfectly.

Thanks again.

Slash
 
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