V8043F 1036 Stuck open problem

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Old 11-30-13, 07:44 AM
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V8043F 1036 Stuck open problem

I have similar problem.

Sometime valve stays open and I have to push the valve in close position. It does not happen ALL the times. Motor is attached with two screws.

Is Motor the culprit like the problem experienced by other gentleman?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...one-valve.html



What is the procedure to replace the motor only? I read somewhere that Valve should push to open before placing the new motor. Is this necessary?

Thanks.
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 11-30-13 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 11-30-13, 08:10 AM
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Moved to own thread,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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Old 11-30-13, 10:50 AM
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Replace the power head.

Be aware that there are OLDER 8043 valves that can NOT have the head changed without first draining the system. You can identify these by the presence of FOUR SCREWS holding the head to the body.

NEWER valves that do NOT require draining the system have TWO SCREWS diagonally and two 'locating pins' in the other two locations.

If you have the OLD style heads, you will also need to fit the CONVERSION KIT to use a new style head as a replacement.

40003916-048 - Honeywell 40003916-048 - Replacement Head for V8043F Zone Valves

40003918-006 - Honeywell 40003918-006 - 2 Way Powerhead Conversion Kit (Water)

Yes, lock the valve head in the open position using the MAN / AUTO lever before replacing. See instructions:

http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1350..._PROD_FILE.pdf
 
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Old 12-01-13, 07:50 PM
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Thank you NJ Trooper for quick response.

Attaching a pic of the valve.

Mine is NOT old type. Motor is held by the two screws (Blue circle in a pic), one on each side of the motor. Also the entire box is attached to valve body by 4-screws (indicated by green line in a pic).

Link you specified for the ".... Replacement Head for V8043..." looks like a box. Not sure if motor is included in the box. I see amazon is selling just a motor.

Honeywell 802360JA Replacement Motor for V8043, V8044 Zone Valves [Misc.]: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Will it work if I replacement only the MOTOR and not the entire body?

Thanks again.
 
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Old 12-01-13, 08:13 PM
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No no no...

Your valve IS IN FACT the OLD TYPE!

Do NOT remove those 4 screws holding the power head in place without first draining the system, or otherwise isolating the section of pipe the valve is on from the rest of the system!

looks like a box. Not sure if motor is included in the box.
Ummm... yeah, looks just like yours but with the cover in place. Don't you have the covers?

Yes, what you see is the entire power head replacement INCLUDING the motor, but you WILL need the conversion kit, and you WILL need to drain the system to install the kit.

Pexsupply also has the motor for a few bucks cheaper, shipping might be a bit higher, you will probably break even on the cost, but I believe you would receive faster from them... though I have no experience with "HVAC Parts Warehouse".

802360JA - Honeywell 802360JA - Replacement Motor for V8043 Zone Valves

For $30 I guess you could try it... though it would seem to me if the valve is hanging open that the gear train is worn and binding...

To change just the motor, turn OFF the power and verify that it's OFF.

Take out the two screws that secure the motor.

Cut the two wires, leaving enough wire to strip about a 1/2" of insulation.

Twist the new motor wires together with the old wire in the valve and secure with a wirenut.

Install new motor and attach with two screws.
 
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Old 12-07-13, 08:17 AM
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Looks like NJ Trooper is right. Valve/motor looks like OLD type. I took another picture from the side of the valve to get the serial number and OS type. Seems I have limited option to solve this problem. 1) convert the to new type using conversion kit, which requires to drain the zone and install kit and new valve motor head. (2) replace just a motor ($20 risk), easy one.

Draining in middle of cold season seems taking risk to me. I haven't done it. I have 3-zones and there is one valve next to circulator motor. So, I if I close this value and turn off the power supply, that will keep all the zones in close position. Then I can drain the current zone where this valve is located. There is a drain valve. I am thinking it may not drain much because other end of the pipe is close. This may drain what is around the valve is. Am I right? Next this is installed the conversion kit and power head. Question is, how do I fill the zone with water once work is done?

Here is couple of pics of the valve.
 
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Old 12-07-13, 11:06 AM
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Show us some pictures of the valve you say can be closed... and all the other piping around the boiler as well.

I would try lubing the gears up with some silicone spray myself and see if that didn't get me through. They might just be worn enough that it doesn't help, but like the motor change, it's a cheap thing to try first.

One thing that I neglected to mention for another poster is that seldom used drain valves will OFTEN not close and seat properly after they are used. It would be wise to have on hand a replacement 1/4 turn BALL valve type of drain and simply replace, OR pick up a couple brass garden hose caps to stop the drip until the valve can be replaced.
 
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Old 12-11-13, 10:59 AM
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Looks like my Burnham boiler is going down. I just noticed the water leak under the boiler. small wet floor. It happens when boiler runs and temp in the boiler goes up. Technician came and checked it out and found crack in one of the cast-iron section. Looks like only option I have is to replace the boiler. Any suggestion about the new boiler make? currently it is Burnham V7 series boiler.
 
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Old 12-11-13, 11:10 AM
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Are you sure the leak is from boiler section and not a tapping???

You could try a boiler sealer... I have good success..

The V 8's were prone to leaking and there was a class action suit against the company... Not sure about the v 7's....

I like the Hercules products... I have had good results...( may have at home store)

30115 - Hercules 30115 - 1 qt. Boiler Liquid


http://www.oatey.com/doc/boilerliq.pdf
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 12-11-13 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 12-11-13, 11:50 AM
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The V7's had a major problem and the class action suit was won. I don't know if there was a time limit to file but if you still have time Burnham was replacing the boiler, no labor.
What they sent was a knock down boiler and casing. You had to use your same burner and controls.
I had to replace 2 for my brother.
The biggest complaint was the contractors were charging rediculous prices to replace these boilers since they were not making anything on the boilers and it was a lot more work to tear one down and reinstall everything on the new block, instead of installing a new package boiler.
They also made it real hard to get the claim approved because they required so much info that people never keep. The only reason my brother had success was because I was the installer and kept everything. Even then there were questions.
At the end of the day all they finally allowed was $500.00 per boiler for labor.
There was a sight where people complained they were paying upwards of $6000.00 just for the replacement install.

The v7 which was bad was replaced by the v8 which was also junk which was replaced finally by the mega steam in my brothers case before they got it right.

My opinion, not worth the aggravation unless you have someone that will install it very reasonably.
 
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Old 12-11-13, 12:37 PM
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rosa, the leak is from cracked cast iron core. minor crack so far and leaks when boiler runs (expands). It stop leaking once boiler stops and cools down little bit.

I spoke to Burnham and they offered prorated (16yrs old)cost of $1200 towards the core replacement or $600 towards new furnace. But as Spott said, local installer are not getting big $$ from the core work, and they don't want to dismantle the other equipment and plumbing to put the new core in. So, the locals are not ready to go with core work.
 
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Old 12-18-13, 05:47 AM
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In order to use this product, I will have plumber to come and make the fitting to put the liquid in the boiler. It does not look like I can put this stuff in easily.

Regarding zone valve problem, I sprayed silicon on the moving parts and it appears that valve is closing by itself. But time will tell. Although, when I will replace the furnace, I will get all 3-zone value replaced.
 
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