Need help filling /purging new baseboard

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Old 12-23-13, 10:17 PM
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Need help filling /purging new baseboard

I am in the process of installing new baseboard heating . I removed all the old fins/piping and replaced them with new fins/piping/covers. The water was already shut off and drained when i started so im not sure what it what on the boiler. I need to fill and purge the new baseboard now and not sure what to do on the boiler or what side is the supply and return . All i basically know is what the parts of the boiler are. I know pretty much how to purge the baseboard too but not sure what valves on my boiler are the right ones.

My boiler (oil) has two zones ,one circulator pump. 1 zone to upstairs baseboard which is already filled and running . second zone is the downstairs which i need to fill.

Can someone tell me which are my supply pipes and return pipes and what each valve does from the pics below. Are the zones on the supply? Circulator pump with the two ball valves is the return piping ? I see that above the circulator 1 of the two ball valves is off and theres already a hose on the spicket above so im guessing thats the one i need to turn on to fill the first floor baseboard? Thats the return piping?









 
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Old 12-23-13, 10:59 PM
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Yes the lines with the hose is the return.... The large pipe on top of the boiler is the feed...

You need to fill water into the boiler to purge...

What does the temp and pressure gauge read on the boiler???
 
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Old 12-23-13, 11:09 PM
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So the zone valves are on the feed/supply? And to fill the baseboard i just need to turn on the zone valve? Then to purge the air i just need to drain the hose into a bucket till air stops. Or does the ballvalve on the return piping below the hose valve fill the 1st floor baseboard?

Right now the upstairs baseboard is filled and boiler working for that one. Just downstairs is not filled. The pressure and temp guage read about 160 and 15psi.Its heating the second floor.
 
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Old 12-23-13, 11:21 PM
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So the zone valves are on the feed/supply
Yes

And to fill the baseboard i just need to turn on the zone valve?
Yes manually open it...

Then to purge the air i just need to drain the hose into a bucket till air stops.
Yes


Or does the ballvalve on the return piping below the hose valve fill the 1st floor baseboard?

That valve needs to be closed when purging..........

Do same for downstairs....................
 
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Old 12-24-13, 01:46 PM
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Thanks for the help . So the valve below the hose valve should be on when filling and at all times exept only when purging the air? Also what do the other valves on the boiler do ,like the black plasticv one on the right side on the copper piping and the hose valve below the black one on the pipe that leads to nothing? Also the yellow valve next to the pressure regulator on top of the boiler? And last the green ball valve right next to the emergency shut off?
 
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Old 12-24-13, 03:11 PM
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So the valve below the hose valve should be on when filling and at all times exept only when purging the air?
Yes that is correct,


Also what do the other valves on the boiler do ,like the black plasticv one on the right side on the copper piping
You mean the round one here in this pic?

If it even works that is a temp control for the hot waterat the faucets... Keeps you from being scalded, as the boiler temp is 180f so can the domestic hot water..

That should be set so you get no more then 120f...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]23501[/ATTACH]


and the hose valve below the black one on the pipe that leads to nothing?
The boiler drain there is just to drain the domestic side of the piping for service... The pipe to no where is a [pressure] relief valve,,,,,

Also the yellow valve next to the pressure regulator on top of the boiler?
If the regulator fails then the boiler may over fill... The yellow valve allows you to turn off the feed to the boiler... Some leave it open and some leave it closed... Its a bit of a debate on what is best... I leave mine open........


And last the green ball valve right next to the emergency shut off?
That valve will shut the hot water off to the home... That is the cold line to the tankless coil... Also branches off to the mixing valve with the plastic handle... Again used for service....


Hope this helps...
 
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Last edited by NJT; 12-26-13 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 12-26-13, 06:30 AM
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Thanks a bunch , That was a huge help
 
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Old 12-27-13, 07:58 PM
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one more question if you dont mind. I am installing a toe kick heater on the baseboard heating loop .

Do you think these hoses would be ok to use for hydronic heating to the toe kick heater?

SharkBite 1/2 in. PTC x 1/2 in. PTC x 18 in. Supply Line Hose-U3008FLEX18LF at The Home Depot

It doesnt say not for hydronic heating or that its for it so im not sure if it can handle the temps . It just says supply line hose. I cant why would it wouldnt be ok but wanted to ask first before installing it.


The way i am hooking it up is the baseboard heating supply side goes to a monoflo tee and continues 12" to another monoflo tee and then to the next baseboard. Off of the 1/2" side of the monoflo tee it connects to a ball valve and then to the flex hose above and into the toe kick .Out of the toekick goes to another of the flex hoses in question and back to the second monoflo tee.
 
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Old 12-27-13, 08:25 PM
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Needs to be rated with an oxygen barrier,,,, If not you will have issues... Even tough short lines...

Toe kick heaters are a waste of time IMO and not worth the trouble... Look for another alternative...

Just me though....
 
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Old 12-29-13, 08:05 AM
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Your right i didnt think about that point. I have no clue if its o2 barrier so i scrapped using them and went with o2 pex instead . Already have the kickspace heater (slantfin Kicker) so cant go a different way now. It isnt going to be doing all the heating itself . I still have 60 ft of baseboard too with it and radiant heat in the kitchen floor.
 
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Old 12-29-13, 09:54 PM
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Finished installing all the baseboard and toe kick heater today . Filled the system and purged it and it was all working great even the toe kick heater . However i found a bad leak. The contractor we had working on our house in which we fired for other reasons installed a air bleed valve concealed in the ceiling at the high point of the piping. This was what was leaking (in the ceiling no less) When i took down the sheetrock on the ceiling low and behold i saw it and realized the idiot installed a Automatic steam vent. Obviously it was leaking like a siv since its designed for steam boilers and is nothing but a hole in a hydronic water system. I turned the boiler off and drained it again to stop the leaking.

Now i have to go buy and install a new air bleeder valve for hydronic heating. Question is what kind do i buy ? Is it ok to have a auto bleeder in a concealed ceiling where you cant get to it. I would think this would be leaky ,no ? Then again if i go with a manual bleed valve i wont ever be able to bleed it when the ceiling is back up. What to do?

Do i even need a bleed valve there. It is at the first 10' (supply) of the loop . It goes up into the ceiling from the zone valve then horizontally about 12' where it reaches the bleed valve where it drops back down to the floor for the baseboard. There is however another bleed valve right in the beginning too right above the zone valve where it first goes horizontally in the ceiling so im not sure the second one after it is needed . What do you think?

I also have a bleed valve at the furthest area in the loop,another on a cast iron radiator and then another two bleeders by the toe kick heater. then of course the auto bleeder on the boiler itself.
 
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Old 12-30-13, 07:05 AM
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Is it ok to have a auto bleeder in a concealed ceiling where you cant get to it.
Absolutely NOT!

I would think this would be leaky ,no ?
Eventually, yes.

Then again if i go with a manual bleed valve i wont ever be able to bleed it when the ceiling is back up. What to do?
Do i even need a bleed valve there. It is at the first 10' (supply) of the loop . It goes up into the ceiling from the zone valve then horizontally about 12' where it reaches the bleed valve where it drops back down to the floor for the baseboard
Sounds like you might need to get some use out of a vent there if I'm visualizing it properly.

Maybe a manual bleeder and an access panel in the ceiling?

Let me google "drywall access panel" for you
 
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Old 12-30-13, 09:04 PM
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Thats what i though. I cant believe this guy put in a steam bleeder not even a auto hydronic bleeder.

Well today i went to HD and picked up those auto bleed valves that are also close so its both auto and manual however i installed it ,filled the system again and found out it was leaking again because it had a defective oring. If i close it real tight the leak stopped but didnt want to chance it so i drained the system for a third time went back to HD and picked up a manual coin key valve. All working good now.I think i will put one of those clip in access panels too just in case i ever need to bleed it again. When i bled the system i opened up the valve and very little air came out there so it may not even be needed with the auto valve less then 10' away on the same height/other drop.

I am glad that i didnt run into any issues at all with the toe kick heater. I read so many issues with them being a pain to get the air out. Only thing that needed a ton of bleeding was the cast iron radiator. Straight air was coming out for a good 5 min before water started flowing through it.

Thanks again for the help guys!
 
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