Burnham P205-WPV Wiring Assistance

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  #41  
Old 02-05-14, 04:59 PM
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Reverse the pump, facing out.
 
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Old 02-05-14, 07:13 PM
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Do you mean why is it at an angle? Pump bolts are only hand tight, so when it tightened up it will be nice and level. Also when i was installing it I thought I would have an interference with the gas pipe, however I think I will have room.
I don't understand. How will tightening the flange bolts cause the motor shaft to be horizontal?

I like the pump flanges with the rotating flanges. You can position the valve handles any way you like and the rotating flanges will correct any misalignment.

But that's beside the point. Motor shaft needs to be horizontal.

Yes, that's the one...
 
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Old 02-09-14, 05:56 PM
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I like the pump flanges with the rotating flanges. You can position the valve handles any way you like and the rotating flanges will correct any misalignment.
Yes I have the pump flanges that rotate and will align the motor horizontally
 
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Old 02-11-14, 12:56 PM
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Troop 2 quick questions

1. In the diagram in post #30; the loop that has the globe valve on it, I am planning on using 3/4 copper for the loop with the closley spaced tees and 3/4 copper all the way through to the manifold that will supply the raidiant floor heating. Any issues with that?

2. then for the calculation on the separation distance of the closely spaced tees; Would the diameter be based of 1.25 black pipe that makes up the headers or the 3/4 copper pipe that the globe valve sits on....hopefully I articulated this clearly.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 02-11-14, 03:06 PM
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1. In the diagram in post #30; the loop that has the globe valve on it, I am planning on using 3/4 copper for the loop with the closley spaced tees and 3/4 copper all the way through to the manifold that will supply the raidiant floor heating. Any issues with that?
Size of the pipe is based on how much flow you need is based on how many BTUs you need to move. You're running two 1/2" PEX loops so you really won't need much more than 4 GPM for both ( 2 + 2 ), and 3/4" pipe is fine for 4 GPM.

2. then for the calculation on the separation distance of the closely spaced tees; Would the diameter be based of 1.25 black pipe that makes up the headers or the 3/4 copper pipe that the globe valve sits on....hopefully I articulated this clearly.
That would be based on the 3/4" pipe.

Basically, you want the tees as close as possible together.

Try to lay out the piping so that you don't need to 'elbow' immediately adjacent to the side ports of the tees. Any elbows too close to the tees upsets the pressure balance between them. (for best results) The more distance you can achieve between the tees and any elbows, the better.

The detail in the upper right of this diagram gives dimensions clearly... I did this for another poster recently so of course the piping diagram is not your system.

 
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Old 02-23-14, 08:00 PM
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Troop. Made some progress this weekend. Do you see any issues so far? Thanks Kevin
 
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Old 02-24-14, 03:20 PM
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Do you see any issues so far?
No problems that I can see...

You've done this before, haven't you?

One thing... maybe... the pipe clamps on that strut material, did you use the 'cushion clamps' with the rubber inside them?
 
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Old 02-24-14, 03:29 PM
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Hi Tropper.

No I've never done anything like this before. And yes the strut clamps do have the rubber cushions on them.........

Kevin
 
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Old 02-24-14, 03:37 PM
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You could teach some of the old hands a thing or two! Looks great! Hope it works as good as it looks... I'm sure it will.
 
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Old 03-04-14, 07:25 AM
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Trooper

Thanks for the compliments. I've learned so much here.....

So this weekend I will complete the last of connecting up the baseboards, and now I will turn to the wiring. As I mentioned in prior posts I am working with a honeywell L8148E. I have some pictures of that in post #5. I will also be using a Taco SR501 along with a Taco ZVC, both are the newer style.

So a few questions.

1. Is 14 guage BX wire acceptable for the pump wiring and end switch wiring?

1. Based upon the diagram that you provided to me in post #23 it would appear that I only have one set of wires going from the Aquastat to the ZVC and the SR, everything else will get connected to the ZVC or the SR. But what lugs do the wires leading from the end switches on the ZVC and the SR get connected to on the Aquastat?

2. I mentioned before that I am going to use a vent damper on this system. I plan to use the one below along with the proper harness I am not sure how to connect this up. Can you provide me with some help on this? Lastly do I need a spill switch for the damper hood? If so where would that get connected to?

GVD-7PL - Field Controls GVD-7PL - 7" Automatic GVD Vent Damper

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-04-14, 08:50 AM
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1. Is 14 guage BX wire acceptable for the pump wiring and end switch wiring?
Yes, and no...

14 ga is fine for the pumps, use MC or (F)MC though, which is what you will find at the stores anyhow. MC has a full size ground wire as required by most codes these days. If you can still find BX, it has the tiny ground wire in it.

End switch wiring is generally low voltage, so standard thermostat wire can be used for that. The exception of course is if the end switch is operating a line voltage load, in which case you would have to use the MC cable there also.

1. Based upon the diagram that you provided to me in post #23 it would appear that I only have one set of wires going from the Aquastat to the ZVC and the SR, everything else will get connected to the ZVC or the SR. But what lugs do the wires leading from the end switches on the ZVC and the SR get connected to on the Aquastat?
Honeywell aquastat? This would be the T / T or T / TV terminals, same spot a thermostat would connect if a single zone setup.

2. I mentioned before that I am going to use a vent damper on this system. I plan to use the one below along with the proper harness I am not sure how to connect this up. Can you provide me with some help on this? Lastly do I need a spill switch for the damper hood? If so where would that get connected to?
Will get to this one this evening...
 
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Old 03-04-14, 11:33 AM
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Okay I understand. Correct it's a honeywell Aquastat L8148E.....below are some pictures of the way it was hooked up prior to reworking the system. So I have power going to L1 and L2 and that's the wires for the old circulator pump going to C1 and C2. So obviously I will be removing the c1 and c2 wires, am I also removing L1 and L2 also.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-04-14, 11:43 AM
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So obviously I will be removing the c1 and c2 wires, am I also removing L1 and L2 also.
Yes, correct about the C1 and C2, that pump wiring will move to the Taco panel as per the diagram.

The L1 and L2 at the aquastat need to remain powered though, and this power should come from the same circuit that powers the rest of the equipment.

In other words, ONE circuit breaker and ONE 'emergency' switch on that circuit to kill power to the boiler and all 'accessories'.
 
  #54  
Old 03-04-14, 03:27 PM
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2. I mentioned before that I am going to use a vent damper on this system. I plan to use the one below along with the proper harness I am not sure how to connect this up. Can you provide me with some help on this?
The first time you posted a link you indicated the 6" model, the last link was for the 7". Make sure you get the correct one!

One of the connectors in the universal cable kit should mate directly to that plug in your aquastat, the one with the small blue loop of wire on it. Pull that loopback connector and plug in the appropriate adapter and plug the GVD right in.

Bear in mind this: Once you plug a damper into the aquastat, it will NOT work without the damper plugged in, OR even plugging the loopback connector back in. There is a fusible element in the aquastat that is intended to blow open the first time the unit is powered with the damper plugged in, it's a safety thing...

Lastly do I need a spill switch for the damper hood? If so where would that get connected to?
I would have thought that the boiler already has a 'blocked vent switch' on the hood, no?

What's the make and model of the boiler again?
 
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Old 03-04-14, 06:33 PM
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Troop

That was a good catch. It is a 6 inch damper that I need, and not the 7 inch. I didn't realize anything about the fuseable link, so thank you for pointing that out.

The boiler is a Burnham Bolier, model P 205 WPV. I believe that the original owner of the house purchased this boiler and it was set up for LP but it was converted to Natural Gas a few years after purchase. There are no wires or hardware going to the hood, nor do I see any switches. The only reason I am asking the question is that in my other home I have a bolier that has the spill switch and noticed this bolier doesn't. Is there one that you woulld recommend and then of course your guidance on how to wire it

Thank you Kevin
 
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Old 03-04-14, 08:16 PM
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Is there one that you woulld recommend and then of course your guidance on how to wire it
Let me look into that ... might take a day or two.
 
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Old 03-08-14, 05:04 PM
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Hi Troop, I know you've been busy, honestly I don't how you keep up with everything.

Was just checking in on the blocked vent switch. Do have thoughts on how to wire and what model I should purchase. I am just finishing up a few last connections and hope to be able to re start the bolier next weekend. Again I really appreciate all of the guidance you have provided to me through this project.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-08-14, 05:24 PM
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I don't have a life!

I don't understand why your boiler doesn't already have a BVS... I wonder if it HAD one and someone removed it and bypassed the wiring?

Is there a "Flame Rollout Switch" ? (look down near the burners)

Do you have the manual for the boiler? If not, this one is for the pre-2012 models and clearly shows a BVS and FRS in the wiring diagram.

http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1282..._PROD_FILE.pdf

I guess what I would recommend is to carefully examine the wiring for evidence of 'tampering' or 'bypassing' based on the wiring diagram.

If you have trouble following the diagram let me know and I'll try to help. Follow the wires from the TH and TR terminals of the gas valve to see where they go.

The BVS and FRS should be in 'series' with the wire to the gas valve.

I imagine that the part for your boiler would be:

Blocked Vent Switch Replacement Assembly 6016058

6016058 - Burnham 6016058 - Manual Reset Blocked Vent Switch w/ Bracket for 202-210 & 805-810 Boilers

But it doesn't come with the wiring, that's part of the boiler wiring harness.
 
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Old 03-08-14, 07:41 PM
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Hi thanks for the quick response.

I don't see a flame rollout switch. There are only two wires that leave the gas valve. When I am at the house tomorrow I will check to see where they connect to. Below is a picture of the burner area.

I did look for evidence of a BVS and flame rollout switch but don't see any at all. There aren't any marks on the hood where the bracket would attach.

Perhaps I'll have to make my own harness. I would just need to know where it would get connected to.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-08-14, 08:20 PM
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Update from last post. The two wires from the gas valve go to B1 and B2 on the L8184E
 
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Old 03-08-14, 08:33 PM
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Is there a manufacture date anywhere on the boiler that you can find?

It seems odd to me that there aren't any safety switches.
 
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Old 03-09-14, 08:48 AM
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Kevin, what does that white label on the front say? All I can see is " CONVERSION "

None of the part manuals that I've seen so far for your P205 boiler show an 8148 aquastat, they all have just a limit control, and an optional 'dual limit' (redundant safety aquastat).

They all show a BVS and FRS... here's the FRS for the 2xx series boilers, but the bracket is not included:

80160044 - Burnham 80160044 - Flame Roll Out Switch

Here's the bracket... wow! 15 cents!

7186018 - Burnham 7186018 - Flame Roll-Out Switch Mounting Bracket

The wiring would be quite easy actually, these would get wired in series with the B1 lead from the aquastat to the gas valve. You should use the proper wire, at least 105C rating. I don't think color of wire is an issue really.

But why doesn't your boiler have these? Pretty much 'standard issue' for well... a LONG time!
 
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Old 03-09-14, 08:56 AM
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I'm going to change the title of this thread to try and attract a certain someone's attention... who should or may be able to shed some light on why this boiler doesn't have the safety switches and why it has an 8148 aquastat.
 
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Old 03-09-14, 05:04 PM
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Troop

Thank you for all of your help. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I can confirm that this boiler was manufactured in 1987..... Also below is a photo of a sticker that was affixed to the boiler. I dug through all of the paper work from the previous owner and found a operators manual. It makes no mention of a BVS however does talk about an " option" of a GVD. So I think it would be a great safety thing to have......the BVS.

Lastly I have a harness and switch from my old boiler (different house) that I saved before the contractor carted it away. It looks like its not a re-set version. See picture below.

At this point I think I want to do the GVD which is just a plug in, per your post. And if we can figure a way for the the flame roll out even better. Take a look.....
 
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Old 03-09-14, 05:12 PM
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Hi Troop the conversion label was from a LP to Natural Gas.....not done by me....previous owner.
 
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Old 03-10-14, 06:49 AM
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found a operators manual. It makes no mention of a BVS
Did that manual have a wiring diagram in it per chance? If so would it be possible to photo or scan and post it?

You should be able to use that BVS, it looks like the type that will automatically reset when it cools off. I personally would prefer a manual reset variety... that way if there's a problem it won't trip/cool/restart/trip/cool/etc ad infinitum

The FRS is a NON-resettable, ONE TIME, thermal fuse.
 
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Old 03-10-14, 10:43 AM
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Troop

Did that manual have a wiring diagram in it per chance? If so would it be possible to photo or scan and post it?
I didnt see any wiring instructions, however i did notice that i came from the factory with the L8148. Didi they have these safety devices in 1987? I can go get the manual then scan it in. May take a couple of days.

Kevin
 
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Old 03-10-14, 11:47 AM
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No, I don't think it's necessary to go to the trouble of scanning the manual, I was just curious to see if there was a wiring diagram if it showed any safeties... yes, boiler had that stuff in '87 ... but I suppose not this one!
 
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Old 03-11-14, 12:41 PM
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Hi Troop

Thanks for all the guidance.

A few updates. I called. Burnham and they sent me the 1987 install manual for my boiler. It's over 2meg. Not sure how to upload it, it is in PDF format. It does show a L8184 along with an optional GVD. It doesn't show a FRS. That said My plan is to add the GVD, BVS, FRS. I will begin the wiring this weekend

I do have a quick question on wire type for the FRS and BVS . I know it needs to be temp rated of 105. What gauge and should it be stranded or solid.

Thanks

The wiring would be quite easy actually, these would get wired in series with the B1 lead from the aquastat to the gas valve. You should use the proper wire, at least 105C rating. I don't think color of wire is an issue really
 
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Old 03-11-14, 01:06 PM
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Definitely stranded, and the same gauge as the wiring from the aquastat to the gas valve now in place.

I'm going to GUESS that it's probably 18 gauge. It only needs to handle the couple amps that the gas valve will draw.

If you have good eyes, the gauge may be visible on the existing wire.

It MIGHT be 16 gauge... and if you did use 16 it won't hurt a thing.

Definitely not 14 gauge.
Definitely not 20 gauge.
 
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Old 03-15-14, 02:49 PM
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The L1 and L2 at the aquastat need to remain powered though, and this power should come from the same circuit that powers the rest of the equipment.

In other words, ONE circuit breaker and ONE 'emergency' switch on that circuit to kill power to the boiler and all 'accessories'
Hi Troop. Quick question. Working on the wiring. Should L1 and L2 be wired to the ZVC or should I wire directly to the circuit after emergency switch?

Thanks,

Kevin
 
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Old 03-15-14, 03:20 PM
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Hey Kevin,

You mean L1 and L2 in the aquastat?

Basically whatever is easiest, and cleanest... and this probably means NOT going to the ZVC because that would bring in a couple extra wires. I discourage more than 1 wire under a terminal screw.

It's usually easiest if you have an extra deep 4" utility box and branch out from there. If the box is one of the deeper ones, you can usually also mount the kill switch on that box.
 
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Old 03-15-14, 04:31 PM
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Hi yes, L1 and L2 in the Aquastat. I need to power the Aquastat, so I agree I will wire to the Utility box......
 
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Old 03-15-14, 08:12 PM
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Troop In the photo below you will see a jumper between the 120 VAC "H" terminal and the "COM" 3 terminal. Nothing is getting connected to the COM terminal, can I leave the jumper in place?

Thanks
 
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Old 03-15-14, 08:22 PM
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Wiring per the diagram in #28...

Jumper is IN, that's what provides the power to the DHW circ.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 05:47 PM
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Hi Troop

Good progress today wiring is complete. All I need to do is fill the boiler and get it running.

Had one further question on the low volatage wiring from the Aquastat. In post 28, does it matter which color gets connected to XX on the ZVC? And / or which color gets connected to the 6 N/O and 5 lug on the Switch relay?

And then any tips on filling? I have bleeders on all baseboards, and many purge stations on the boilers.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-22-14, 07:02 PM
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Good progress today wiring is complete
Any new pics?

does it matter which color gets connected to XX on the ZVC? And / or which color gets connected to the 6 N/O and 5 lug on the Switch relay?
No, not polarity sensitive. Simple switch closures. Typically would use Red and White. I would put the red wire on the TV terminal in the aquastat, and the white on the T terminal.

any tips on filling? I have bleeders on all baseboards, and many purge stations on the boilers.
Shouldn't have to use the baseboard bleeders for initial filling.

I'll have to look at the diagram again... but basically you will be using the purge stations to force the water through the zones.

Looks like there maybe should have been purge station on the indirect loop, but you should be able to fill that no problem.

Probably should have been a full port ball valve on the boiler supply out, ahead of the air separator, but I don't think you'll have trouble getting that full either.

As Bruce Lee said, "Become the water..." and you will know what to do.
 
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Old 03-22-14, 07:28 PM
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I will post pictures tomorrow. I don't have the indirect water heater yet but it is piped.

Thank you again for all of your help. Stay tuned


Kevin
 
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Old 03-23-14, 02:31 PM
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Troop

Okay so here are the latest photos. I didn't fire boiler today, however did fill it. Found a few leaky joints which I repaired. Also have a new gas shut off valve that I believe is leaking. It seems to be leaking from the stem, so I am just going to replace it. Here are some new photos.

Haven't wired the vent damper, or the blocked vent switch yet. But will do that once I know everything else is working.

Open to any feedback you may have.

Thanks

Kevin
 
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Old 03-30-14, 08:34 PM
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Troop

So a few more things to fix. I changed the gas line to 3/4 vs the 1/2 that was on there, based upon feedback from this forum and the fuel and gas code which shows it needed to be 3/4. More on that in a second....

Fired the boiler up all looks good. Questions

Pressure is a bit over 17psi. Is that normal?

Pilot light seems louder than I recall. Could that be a function of the larger gas line?

Nest steps is to get the hot water heater.

Again thank you for all the support and guidance.

Kevin
 
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