Boiler running and circulating but no heat

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-29-13, 02:00 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Boiler running and circulating but no heat

I have a year old Burnham gas boiler. Three zone, only two being used. I am getting heat to my 2nd zone on 2nd floor however no heat from my first floor. I know it's probably a quick fix, just moved in and not that familiar with everything yet. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-29-13, 02:08 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,698
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
Johnny,
More info please if you could.
Circulators or zone valves to control the zones. What do you have for controls, and t-stats.
With just one floor not heating it's most likely your t-stat or the zone valve or pump that controls that zone.
 
  #3  
Old 12-29-13, 02:40 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I have a "Whte-Rogers" digital t-stat. It was working fine until today. I have a Taco circulator, both in use zones are set to medium. Both supply lines to the circulator are super hot to the touch, however the supply line just past circulator is only warm in the zone not working. Some reason it's not pumping hot water. Thanks Spott
Attachment 23686
 
  #4  
Old 12-29-13, 03:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1114
Size:  42.8 KB here is a photo of my set-up.
 
  #5  
Old 12-29-13, 03:20 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Hello....welcome.

Whats the make and model of the boiler?

What does the temp and pressure gauge read at the boiler?

Can you take a few pics of around the boiler? Air vents. controls and such?

This helps us a great deal...

Sounds like pump not working or air bound.
 
  #6  
Old 12-29-13, 04:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi, the boiler is a Burnham Series 2 which is only a year old. Everything is new because we got hit hard by hurricane Sandy. Taco circulator with 3 stage pumping. It was set on medium stage 2, I can hear it rev up when I increase to higher stage. The water coming is not leaving pump hot. There is where I think the problem lies. Unless it's a thermostat problem. The thermostat wiring system is an "Argo"?
I'm getting a temp of 175 and psi of about 20. Does that seem normal? I'll post some pics too. Thanks!Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1202
Size:  39.9 KB
 
  #7  
Old 12-29-13, 04:27 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Yes more pics please... We can try bleeding the zone...

What type of heat emitters... baseboard copper or cast iron rads???


any warranty on who installed it? Most today give 5 yrs warranty...
 
  #8  
Old 12-29-13, 04:31 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Is the little cap on that air vent loose? The one under the red emergency switch....Leave it loose..

Is that the only air vent on the system?
 
  #9  
Old 12-29-13, 04:33 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Here is the housing for the thermostat wiring. There was a switch labeled "priority on" switch that was off. I just put it to on, since the zone I wasn't getting heat to is wired as priority zone. It is switch on middle right of photo. Not sure if by doing this will cut off my working zone, but gonna give it a shot. Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1081
Size:  47.4 KBName:  image.jpg
Views: 1081
Size:  47.4 KB
 
Attached Images  
  #10  
Old 12-29-13, 04:39 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Priority should be on if the zone is for an indirect HWH... If the zone is for heat then priority should be off...

Need pics of the boiler and valves... We can purge the zone... But answer the question I have been asking...

Thanks.. This will help us help you...
 
  #11  
Old 12-29-13, 04:42 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
There was a switch labeled "priority on" switch that was off. I just put it to on, since the zone I wasn't getting heat to is wired as priority zone. It is switch on middle right of photo. Not sure if by doing this will cut off my working zone, but gonna give it a shot.
Switch it off again Johnny.

PRIORITY is only used if the system has an INDIRECT WATER HEATER attached, and I don't believe yours does.

I'm with Mike... your zone may have an air blockage... he'll walk you through what you need to do.
 
  #12  
Old 12-29-13, 04:51 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1019
Size:  34.0 KB


Older cast iron rads. Here is the only air vent I see.
 

Last edited by NJT; 12-29-13 at 05:07 PM.
  #13  
Old 12-29-13, 04:57 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks. Turned priority off. Thought I would see what happens. Thanks for your help.
 
  #14  
Old 12-29-13, 04:57 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
If you have radiators then you need to go to each rad and bleed them from there.. Start with the first one on the line...Take about a quart of water out of each...

Do this with that zone circ running and set on high speed...

Loosen that air vent cap if its not loose....
 
  #15  
Old 12-29-13, 04:59 PM
NJT's Avatar
NJT
NJT is offline
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 23,539
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Johnny, you need to answer Mike's questions:

What type of heat emitters... baseboard copper or cast iron rads???

any warranty on who installed it? Most today give 5 yrs warranty...
Is the little cap on that air vent loose? The one under the red emergency switch....Leave it loose..

Is that the only air vent on the system?
Pictures are fine, but we can't tell from a picture if the vent is open or closed...
 
  #16  
Old 12-29-13, 05:03 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1244
Size:  39.8 KBHere is the cold water feed with a back flow preventer.
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-13, 05:05 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
post # 12 he stated rads troop...
 
  #18  
Old 12-29-13, 05:07 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The air vent was loose. About a quarter turn loose. I have cast iron radiators. It's an older house, but boiler, circulator pump are all new. Everything was installed right before I bought house. Due to Sandy. The basement was flooded. Thanks again for your help. Not to bright on this subject.
 
  #19  
Old 12-29-13, 05:15 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Your doing fine.... Do you know how to bleed the radiators?
 
  #20  
Old 12-29-13, 05:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1012
Size:  47.5 KBHere are the returns and valves.
 
  #21  
Old 12-29-13, 05:39 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Why is that one valve off?

First thing you need to do is bleed the radiators on that zone...

Can you take a pic of a rad? Can you show the in and out pipe to the rad? Can you show where the in and out pipe connect to the main heat look up in the ceiling somewhere? Any rad will do...
 
  #22  
Old 12-29-13, 05:43 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,698
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
Lawrosa,

Post #1 3 zones, 2 in use.
 
  #23  
Old 12-29-13, 05:46 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,698
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
Johnny,
Could I see pics of the supply lines above the pumps. There should be some type of Flo control valve.
 
  #24  
Old 12-29-13, 05:49 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
bleed the rads please then we can take it from there......................


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8vNEZ3VM28
 
  #25  
Old 12-29-13, 05:59 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 172
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Not to Hijack this thread, but why would one put a hose bib on a back flow preventer. Would that not defeat the "atmospheric" venting. Again sorry, just trying to learn a thing or 2
 
Attached Images  
  #26  
Old 12-29-13, 06:12 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,698
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
There's no reason and it should not be done. I suppose if you left it open and you'ld know where to find it if you ever needed a spare.
 
  #27  
Old 12-29-13, 06:16 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 172
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks that is what I thought. I know they tend to "drip" every now and then and maybe someone put that on to stop it
 
  #28  
Old 12-29-13, 06:23 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I guess that I need to bleed this zone. I never did it before. Was gonna google that next. Haha. Here is a pic of one of my rads in non working zone. Thanks again for help.
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1008
Size:  29.0 KB
 
  #29  
Old 12-29-13, 06:27 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 14
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Name:  image.jpg
Views: 988
Size:  31.1 KBHere is the opposite side of previous pic of rad.
 
  #30  
Old 12-29-13, 07:10 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 17,804
Received 10 Votes on 8 Posts
Yes bleed the rad closes to the boiler and work away... Do one at a time... Looks like a regular flat blade to open.

IMO do it with the circ runnin on hi... Turn up the t stat to that zone so it runs...

Loosen that cap on the downstairs vent more then the 1/4 turn you stated...
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: