Hydronic Boiler Temp

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  #81  
Old 01-08-14, 06:31 PM
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Any chance he could remove the power head and see if he can try to jiggle/work the actuator stem to see if the lower portion of the valve can be unstuck?
Since the gears are making noise, it sounds like the power head is working.
 
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  #82  
Old 01-08-14, 06:48 PM
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Ummmm..... "NORMALLY OPEN"???? Don't we want to be closed when the power is off? I just happen to have an Erie PopTop valve in my hand.... Its listed as a normally closed valve.

One of the experts here might want to double check the cross reference on the part numbers.

Patrick
 
  #83  
Old 01-08-14, 06:52 PM
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Ummmm..... "NORMALLY OPEN"????
Good grief! I didn't even READ the pages... just crossed the numbers and posted the links!

How messed up would that be?

I'll check it out......................
 
  #84  
Old 01-08-14, 06:57 PM
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How about getting us the part number on the working zone valve power head.
 
  #85  
Old 01-08-14, 07:07 PM
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It appears that if the number was typed correctly, the WRONG actuator is installed on the valve at the right...

This number: 465B307-GA1 is in fact for a normally OPEN actuator.

This number: 465B307-GA0 is for a normally CLOSED actuator

and it appears that the replacement for that one is this one:

AG13A02A - Erie AG13A02A - 24V Normally Closed PopTop Actuator w/ 18" Leads & End Switch

Divine, please double check those numbers.
 
  #86  
Old 01-08-14, 07:49 PM
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From what I can tell, Erie valve numbers ending in A1 are all normally OPEN and ending in A0 are normally closed.

I'm thinking that the other two are also normally open so it would seem at the time they were installed it was intentionally done... but WHY? I can't see any reason whatsoever that these should be normally OPEN zone valves?!
 
  #87  
Old 01-08-14, 08:14 PM
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Trooper,

I'm not totally sure the datasheet linked to several messages ago applies to the old valve, but it says that the manual override lever is ONLY on the normally closed valves (stated about the middle of the first page). I don't exactly understand how a manual override lever would work on a normally open valve. It seems like it would be hard to implement to make it actually seal tight.

Patrick
 

Last edited by kayakingphotos; 01-08-14 at 08:15 PM. Reason: indicating location of reference in manual
  #88  
Old 01-08-14, 08:24 PM
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Manual override lever (normally closed only)
So it does!

I don't exactly understand how a manual override lever would work on a normally open valve.
Nor do I understand why one would need one. The point of the manual override is to open the valve in the event of power failure or other problem with the actuator. If normally open fails open, you don't need the lever.

So what gives then? I'm so confused!

I think my previous post about A01 being normally open and A02 normally closed is wrong. According to the part number 'dissection' on page 4
 
  #89  
Old 01-09-14, 01:37 PM
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Lightbulb

Sorry for the delay. Been pretty busy.

Name:  Capture.jpg
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So the problem is fixed. Replaced the zone valve, with a nice Honeywell. Swapped it myself, wasn't a big issue, because I had shutoffs before and after the valves.

I want to thank everyone, I learned a TON on this project, and you guys have been absolutely wonderful, especially with the patience you guys have had with me, without you guys I would have dumped a ton of money into a plumber/ electrician.

Thanks again!
 
  #90  
Old 01-09-14, 03:37 PM
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And you received some exercise at the same time!
 
  #91  
Old 01-09-14, 04:04 PM
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Excellent!

Nothing wrong with eskersize ! Could use a bit myself.

This is a good example for how important pictures are I think... almost 100 posts and it turns out to be a bad zone valve and one in the wrong postion...

So I guess that they aren't normally closed heads then?

Divine, which one did you change?
 
  #92  
Old 01-10-14, 04:09 AM
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Hey NJ.

I changed the odd one out of the three. The one which controls zone 1, and about 1200 sqft of heating space. Third over.

When I would adjust the thermostat up, you could hear the gears moving, but when you would turn it down, it wouldn't do anything.

To replace, I went to a local plumbing supply with the cap off the 2nd Erie, and said I want one of these, as I knew it was the proper one. He sold me a matching Honeywell which was highly reviewed for $80 tax in.
 
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