Columbia Oil Burner, Honeywell/Beckett inter. ign. oil primary, fan, transformer

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Old 01-11-14, 01:41 PM
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Columbia Oil Burner, Honeywell/Beckett inter. ign. oil primary, fan, transformer

The Oil Burner only fires up if I push the inter. ign. oil primary. and then goes out after approx. 45 sec. HOW TO FIX?





I have checked the thermostat, it works (sends no ohms when set below room temp and 1.5 ohms when needs to turn on-set above room temp). I have cleaned the cad cell which did not look dirty and measured ohms when firing oil burner, when out of holder and when not firing oil burner(off 73.8 ohms, firing-on- 12ohms, out of holder with bright 100watt shining at it-2.6 ohms dim light far away 190ohms. I am not sure if I need to multiply by some number to get exact ohms, but that is what ohm meter says when set at 200. The burner motor (fan) comes on fine and tests 120V. so is ok. I have cleaned the strainer (which had very little contamination). The burner gets oil fine so it is not the nozzle. I am thinking it might be the R8184G1286 intermitent ignition oil primary or the transformer. After all the tests one puzzles me. my inter. oil primary has 4 wires (2 labeled F-yellow wires, 2 labeled T-red & white wire). I measured the ohms at the T's (from thermostat it works fine. I did NOT get an ark or any spark when holding insulted screwdriver between the 2 F's. I have read I should get a spark. Is there any test I can do to determine if it is the a) intermittent ignition oil primary or b)the transformer??
 
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Old 01-11-14, 02:12 PM
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The Oil Burner only fires up if I push the inter. ign. oil primary. and then goes out after approx. 45 sec. HOW TO FIX?
This means that the problem is at the BURNER ITSELF.

That RESET button only needs to be pushed if the control did not sense a flame after 45 seconds.

If you are unfamiliar with troubleshooting an oil burner, mid-winter is not the time to learn.

My first suggestion is to call a technician.

I did NOT get an ark or any spark when holding insulted screwdriver between the 2 F's. I have read I should get a spark
Two F's ? You don't mean the F F terminals on the oil primary, do you? If so, where did you read that you should get a spark?

Don't mess with that ignition transformer trying to draw an arc with a screwdriver... that thing can knock you on your a55 and yes, IT CAN KILL YOU!

measured ohms when firing oil burner, when out of holder and when not firing oil burner(off 73.8 ohms, firing-on- 12ohms, out of holder with bright 100watt shining at it-2.6 ohms dim light far away 190ohms.
I don't understand what you are saying here...

With the burner OFF, Disconnect one of the wires from the CAD cell where they connect to the F F terminals of the oil primary and measure across the yellow wires with your meter. Tell us what you are reading.

OR, take it out of the holder and measure the DARK, COMPLETELY DARK reading.
 
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Old 01-11-14, 02:17 PM
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I am not sure if I need to multiply by some number to get exact ohms
Are you using an analog meter? What model?
 
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Old 01-12-14, 01:19 AM
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A cadmium sulphide cell should show a resistance of several thousand ohms in the dark and less than 1600 ohms when the burner is firing. Your problem is with either the cell itself or the wiring.
 
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Old 01-15-14, 10:54 AM
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more tests done as adviced by a tech

I pulled the 4 wires on the primary. 2 yellow wires labeled F and F. and the 2 other wires for the thermostat labeled T and T. I crossed the two F terminals with a wire and also connected the two T termainals with a wire. The oil burner ran and did not turn off as before. What does this mean?? Also, I measured the cad cell and cleaned it (was not dirty but cleaned anyway-looked fairly new. The cad cell measured (when taken out and a 100 watt bulb was placed approx. 4 inches away shining directly into the cad cell) 23.6 which I think is times times 200 as it was on the 200 setting on my ohm meter. When the same cad cell is placed in a dimme area, it measured 190- which I think is times 200 again.

My main question again is:I pulled the 4 wires on the primary. 2 yellow wires labeled F and F. and the 2 other wires for the thermostat labeled T and T. I crossed the two F terminals with a wire and also connected the two T termainals with a wire. The oil burner ran and did not turn off as before. What does this mean??
 
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Old 01-15-14, 11:25 AM
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Are you using an analog meter? What model?
What does this mean??
Perhaps you should ask the tech that advised you to perform that test?
 
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Old 01-15-14, 12:06 PM
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I have a cheap yellow multi meter that has many settings. The ohm settings have 200, 20, 2000, etc. (it is not with me now). I set it on the 200 setting for ohms. When the burner was firing it measured 012 and when burner off it measured 738. I pulled the cad cell out of its holder and as I said, when a 100 watt light was held approx 3 inches away, the cad cell measured 23.6 (on the 200 setting so, 23.6x200=4600 ohms. When the cad cell once again out of its holder and in dimmer light, it measured 190 (at the 200 setting...so 200 x 190=38000 ohms. Not sure if this helps to determine if it is a problem with the cad cell.......Thanks for the help!!!
 
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Old 01-15-14, 12:14 PM
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I am using a multi meter that has settings for ohms, volts, etc. The ohm settings has settings of 20, 200, 2000, etc. I do not have it here but know the settings I set it on when testing....Completely dark it measured 1.0.
 
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Old 01-15-14, 01:33 PM
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So you are saying that your meter has a DIGITAL display, and it is NOT an ANALOG model.

Without seeing the meter or knowing the model it would be impossible for me to guess it's operation.

Why not just try a new CAD cell? Your readings look suspicious to me.
 
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