Leaking vent valve


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Old 01-12-14, 06:59 AM
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Leaking vent valve

I have a leaking air vent valve in my Hot water system that i need to replace.

Its one of those little threaded valves (130 psi.) that is supposed to automatically vent as needed

My question is,how do i go about this?
I have a shutoff valves on either side of the water circulator to isolate the pump if i have to replace the circulator.

Can i just close these valves,and unscrew the leaking vent valve? Pressure relief?,draining?

Thanks
 
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Old 01-12-14, 08:26 AM
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Hi... I assume you are talking about an AAV for an indirect water heater?
 
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Old 01-12-14, 08:30 AM
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Hi Swede,

Show us a picture if you can.

Chances are that NO, you can't just close the pump valves and change it because there will still be pressure in the system and you most likely have the manual water feed to the system OPEN.

USUALLY, at the very least one would have to close the manual water feed, and drain ONLY ENOUGH WATER TO DROP THE PRESSURE TO ZERO in the system. Then, having the new vent at hand and ready to screw back in, remove the old one and QUICKLY screw the new one in. You will lose some water when you take the old out because gravity will still want to push water out the hole... so cover anything in the vicinity with plastic that you don't want to get wet.

If you insist on using teflon tape, use only ONE WRAP on those fine threads and keep it AWAY from the first 2-3 threads. You don't want those slivers of teflon getting into the system... preferred to use a good pipe dope, and not much of it. Keep pipe dope off the first 2-3 threads as well.

Depending on where the vent is located on your system and what valves are available, you may be able to isolate that section as well.

As long as you are dropping the pressure in the system to zero, you might as well also service the expansion tank at the same time.

Read this:

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html

OR... just screw the cap on the vent down tight and wait until spring to change it.
 
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Old 01-12-14, 09:00 AM
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Thanks to you two for your replies.

NJ Trooper, The air vent is the 1/8 pipe type with screw cap. Great info.
I will change it out per your suggestions later.

Thanks again
 
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Old 01-12-14, 09:31 AM
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Show us a picture if you can.
The air vent is the 1/8 pipe type with screw cap
Understood... reason I asked for pic is to see where on the system it's located because the info I gave could change.
 
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Old 01-12-14, 11:06 AM
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Its at the highest point in the return line to boiler

Thanks again
 
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Old 01-12-14, 11:10 AM
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Its at the highest point in the return line to boiler
OK, but are there any valves which you can close to isolate that section of pipe? For example, are there valves on the returns? Is the pump on the return? If so, you can close the return valves and one of the pump valves and isolate the section with the vent on it. You would still want to depressurize before unscrewing it, BEFORE you close the valves, but from that point on you have no pressure and no gravity wanting to push the water out.
 
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Old 01-12-14, 02:52 PM
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I have a 2 zone heating system..One services the first floor,and the second services the second floor.

When i had this system installed new,i had the HVAC installers put in a circulator for each zone with shut offs at the inputs and outputs for each circulator just for such a situations.

My understanding is after talking to you,I can just shut off the system,supply water,shut off the input and output to the circulator in the zone that has the leaking vent valve,bleed off the water pressure in the system,and i should be able to just remove/replace the leaking valve.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.

Does this sound right ?
 
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Old 01-12-14, 03:13 PM
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You can't put up a picture?

My understanding is after talking to you,I can just shut off the system,supply water,shut off the input and output to the circulator in the zone that has the leaking vent valve,bleed off the water pressure in the system,and i should be able to just remove/replace the leaking valve.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.
More or less, but unless you can isolate the section of piping that the vent is installed on from the rest of the system, that is on both sides of the vent, then closing the circulator valves may not do anything at all for you. Those valves are for changing the circulator, not the vent.

As long as the pipe that the vent is on is open to the system on at least one side, you will have gravity pushing down the water and even when you run the pressure down, you will get water out... not under much pressure, but it will want to come out.

So yes,

Shut off system.

Shut off water supply.

Drain off the pressure till the boiler gauge reads zero.

R&R vent... covering anything you don't want wet with plastic.

Reverse procedure.

Close valves if you want...can't hurt. If I could SEE it I could tell you if it will help.
 
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Old 01-12-14, 04:06 PM
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I have to experiment with posting pictures,but i will follow your drain procedure

There is a drain valve at the returns to both systems before the circulators,which i believe will allow me to drain down each zone separately of the other.
My plan is to do your shut down procedure,and when pressure .and temp. is down,open drain valve to that zone only,and drain off any excess water/pressure.

Thanks again for hanging in there with me.
 
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Old 01-13-14, 10:01 AM
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Eureka !!!!

Just posting my thanks for helping me with my leaking vent valve. Replaced the valve,and am back on line

My thanks, and appreciation to NJ Trooper for hanging in there with me.
 
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Old 01-13-14, 10:06 AM
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Piece of cake, right?..........................
 
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Old 01-13-14, 10:25 AM
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Glad i had installed all those valves,by-passes,return lines,etc years ago..
 
 

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