Leaking vent valve
#1
Leaking vent valve
I have a leaking air vent valve in my Hot water system that i need to replace.
Its one of those little threaded valves (130 psi.) that is supposed to automatically vent as needed
My question is,how do i go about this?
I have a shutoff valves on either side of the water circulator to isolate the pump if i have to replace the circulator.
Can i just close these valves,and unscrew the leaking vent valve? Pressure relief?,draining?
Thanks
Its one of those little threaded valves (130 psi.) that is supposed to automatically vent as needed
My question is,how do i go about this?
I have a shutoff valves on either side of the water circulator to isolate the pump if i have to replace the circulator.
Can i just close these valves,and unscrew the leaking vent valve? Pressure relief?,draining?
Thanks
#3
Hi Swede,
Show us a picture if you can.
Chances are that NO, you can't just close the pump valves and change it because there will still be pressure in the system and you most likely have the manual water feed to the system OPEN.
USUALLY, at the very least one would have to close the manual water feed, and drain ONLY ENOUGH WATER TO DROP THE PRESSURE TO ZERO in the system. Then, having the new vent at hand and ready to screw back in, remove the old one and QUICKLY screw the new one in. You will lose some water when you take the old out because gravity will still want to push water out the hole... so cover anything in the vicinity with plastic that you don't want to get wet.
If you insist on using teflon tape, use only ONE WRAP on those fine threads and keep it AWAY from the first 2-3 threads. You don't want those slivers of teflon getting into the system... preferred to use a good pipe dope, and not much of it. Keep pipe dope off the first 2-3 threads as well.
Depending on where the vent is located on your system and what valves are available, you may be able to isolate that section as well.
As long as you are dropping the pressure in the system to zero, you might as well also service the expansion tank at the same time.
Read this:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
OR... just screw the cap on the vent down tight and wait until spring to change it.
Show us a picture if you can.
Chances are that NO, you can't just close the pump valves and change it because there will still be pressure in the system and you most likely have the manual water feed to the system OPEN.
USUALLY, at the very least one would have to close the manual water feed, and drain ONLY ENOUGH WATER TO DROP THE PRESSURE TO ZERO in the system. Then, having the new vent at hand and ready to screw back in, remove the old one and QUICKLY screw the new one in. You will lose some water when you take the old out because gravity will still want to push water out the hole... so cover anything in the vicinity with plastic that you don't want to get wet.
If you insist on using teflon tape, use only ONE WRAP on those fine threads and keep it AWAY from the first 2-3 threads. You don't want those slivers of teflon getting into the system... preferred to use a good pipe dope, and not much of it. Keep pipe dope off the first 2-3 threads as well.
Depending on where the vent is located on your system and what valves are available, you may be able to isolate that section as well.
As long as you are dropping the pressure in the system to zero, you might as well also service the expansion tank at the same time.
Read this:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bo...sion-tank.html
OR... just screw the cap on the vent down tight and wait until spring to change it.
#4
Thanks to you two for your replies.
NJ Trooper, The air vent is the 1/8 pipe type with screw cap. Great info.
I will change it out per your suggestions later.
Thanks again
NJ Trooper, The air vent is the 1/8 pipe type with screw cap. Great info.
I will change it out per your suggestions later.
Thanks again

#5
Show us a picture if you can.
#7
Its at the highest point in the return line to boiler
#8
I have a 2 zone heating system..One services the first floor,and the second services the second floor.
When i had this system installed new,i had the HVAC installers put in a circulator for each zone with shut offs at the inputs and outputs for each circulator just for such a situations.
My understanding is after talking to you,I can just shut off the system,supply water,shut off the input and output to the circulator in the zone that has the leaking vent valve,bleed off the water pressure in the system,and i should be able to just remove/replace the leaking valve.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.
Does this sound right ?
When i had this system installed new,i had the HVAC installers put in a circulator for each zone with shut offs at the inputs and outputs for each circulator just for such a situations.
My understanding is after talking to you,I can just shut off the system,supply water,shut off the input and output to the circulator in the zone that has the leaking vent valve,bleed off the water pressure in the system,and i should be able to just remove/replace the leaking valve.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.
Does this sound right ?
#9
You can't put up a picture?
More or less, but unless you can isolate the section of piping that the vent is installed on from the rest of the system, that is on both sides of the vent, then closing the circulator valves may not do anything at all for you. Those valves are for changing the circulator, not the vent.
As long as the pipe that the vent is on is open to the system on at least one side, you will have gravity pushing down the water and even when you run the pressure down, you will get water out... not under much pressure, but it will want to come out.
So yes,
Shut off system.
Shut off water supply.
Drain off the pressure till the boiler gauge reads zero.
R&R vent... covering anything you don't want wet with plastic.
Reverse procedure.
Close valves if you want...can't hurt. If I could SEE it I could tell you if it will help.
My understanding is after talking to you,I can just shut off the system,supply water,shut off the input and output to the circulator in the zone that has the leaking vent valve,bleed off the water pressure in the system,and i should be able to just remove/replace the leaking valve.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.
I would then reverse my steps to energize the system and get back on line.
As long as the pipe that the vent is on is open to the system on at least one side, you will have gravity pushing down the water and even when you run the pressure down, you will get water out... not under much pressure, but it will want to come out.
So yes,
Shut off system.
Shut off water supply.
Drain off the pressure till the boiler gauge reads zero.
R&R vent... covering anything you don't want wet with plastic.
Reverse procedure.
Close valves if you want...can't hurt. If I could SEE it I could tell you if it will help.
#10
I have to experiment with posting pictures,but i will follow your drain procedure
There is a drain valve at the returns to both systems before the circulators,which i believe will allow me to drain down each zone separately of the other.
My plan is to do your shut down procedure,and when pressure .and temp. is down,open drain valve to that zone only,and drain off any excess water/pressure.
Thanks again for hanging in there with me.
There is a drain valve at the returns to both systems before the circulators,which i believe will allow me to drain down each zone separately of the other.
My plan is to do your shut down procedure,and when pressure .and temp. is down,open drain valve to that zone only,and drain off any excess water/pressure.

Thanks again for hanging in there with me.
#11
Eureka !!!!
Just posting my thanks for helping me with my leaking vent valve. Replaced the valve,and am back on line
My thanks, and appreciation to NJ Trooper for hanging in there with me.
My thanks, and appreciation to NJ Trooper for hanging in there with me.
