Base board heat addition.

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Old 01-16-14, 05:02 AM
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Base board heat addition.

I am extending a radiator and putting it in the wall in my basement, Man Cave project. What are the procedures for shutting down and starting up the water system flow? I read something about purging the system etc.
 
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Old 01-16-14, 05:21 AM
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Turnoff the power to the boiler and pump(s). Drain the necessary pipes. Do the work to install the new heat emitter. Refill the system with water. Get the air out. Turn the power back on.

If you want a more detailed answer you will need to give MUCH more detail in your question. adding a couple of dozen well lit and in focus pictures of the existing system will help. We don't need any close-ups at this time but wide angle shots that show how the various parts are connected. Best to upload the pictures to a photo hosting site and post the public URLs as directly uploading to the forum can do some funny things. Do not use tinypic as the forum software rejects it.
 
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Old 01-16-14, 06:09 AM
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That's all I need to know Furd, is how to get the air out. Thanks for the responce. Here's my Boiler and the work I'm doing.


 
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Old 01-16-14, 06:18 AM
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Thanks for the response Furd, I just need to know how to purge or get the air out of the system, for now. I'm sure I'll run into other problems. here's my Boiler and the work I'm doing.

 
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Old 01-16-14, 03:37 PM
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Nice pictures but they don't show enough of the system to really help. I do see several things that I would have done differently on the side of the boiler.
 
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Old 01-16-14, 04:29 PM
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I do see several things that I would have done differently on the side of the boiler.
Me too.

For starters, one must NEVER reduce the pipe size from a safety pressure relief valve as has been done here. That pipe MUST remain at the same size all the way to within 6" of the floor. Steel pipe is not a good choice for a safety valve discharge. It can rust up and not flow what it needs to flow when it needs to flow.

The return pipe appears to be 3/4"... and that's too small. When one joins two 3/4" pipes, you must go up at least one pipe size, in this case to 1" at least. It appears that at one time, the correct size piping WAS in place as evidenced by the reducing bushings on that fitting.

The method of joining the two zones with that 'tee' fitting is just wrong. It's bad practice. There should have been TWO tee fittings on at least 1" pipe forming a 'manifold', and each zone returning to one side port on each tee.

I can't see clearly in the picture, but it appears that the discharge of the circulator back into the boiler is also reduced to 3/4". Another no-no.

I'm sure the supply side has similar issues.

Did I get 'em all Furd?
 
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Old 01-16-14, 05:25 PM
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Did I get 'em all Furd?
Most of them. There is also what appears to be some type NM cable taped to the gas piping.

I don't have a serious problem with running the two returns together in the "run" of the tee but it definitely should be a one inch or larger tee. I would have mounted the pump horizontally and had the return line lower as well. The air vent on the riser from the pump suction is simply not necessary. By placing the pump horizontally it also allows for installing a tee on the return line for a diaphragm type expansion tank. Of course isolation valves are always welcome.
 
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Old 01-16-14, 05:42 PM
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There is also what appears to be some type NM cable taped to the gas piping.
Yeah, missed that! Looks like the AC line supply to the boiler.

I don't have a serious problem with running the two returns together in the "run" of the tee
I don't like it because of the turbulence that will exist at the tee. Two streams of water coming together head on... CRASH! Big multi-stream accident at the intersection... traffic backed up...

I suspect we are going to see what I consider a WORSE situation on the supply side. I bet that the supply goes into the 'bull' of a tee and splits out the 'runs' to the two zones. IMHO, one should NEVER split a flow by feeding the 'bull' of a tee. But maybe it won't be all that bad.
 
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Old 01-21-14, 06:48 AM
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I'm not an Hvac person much less a professional and this system was hard for me to understand. After reading about its flaws, 1 I'm glad I had nothing to do with it and 2 what your all saying makes some sense. But is there anyone in the profession that knows the procedure on how to get the air out?
 
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Old 01-21-14, 07:40 AM
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is there anyone in the profession that knows the procedure on how to get the air out?
I'm sure there is... and they would want to get paid to come to your house where they could SEE the system and know which valves to turn and when...

Being as we can't be there to see the system, Furd has mentioned, twice in fact, that we need more information. How can we tell you how to get the air out if you don't show us the complete system?

If you want a more detailed answer you will need to give MUCH more detail in your question. adding a couple of dozen well lit and in focus pictures of the existing system will help
Nice pictures but they don't show enough of the system to really help
 
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